PaRtZ

2:43...cousts would be impressed with that tap technique That was really really cool! And you seem a bit smoother now, not sure if its the bike change (since I last saw your video) or just skilzzzzz Good song choice too watch this in HD though to be honest, its SO much better, you've got a really pimp camera

oh jardo i didnt know whether to laugh or cry its a pretty good effort to be fair to them Mike, gutting to hear bout the car man can you claim it off the insurance though?

yeah they're really good frames. Great value for money as they last so long for not so much money! Had mine for a year before I swapped it for a dual disc megamo. After a year of TORTURE it was still uncracked despite millions of scratches

you two can stay at mine Good to see things have progressed Nick! We'll be heading over soon no doubt!

just to let you know, a rubber queen wont fit without sounding like a motorbike if you ever plan on upgrading Looks nice, Gta disagree with the raceline lever blade though, get a new four finger one, you wont regret it!

They're pretty good Was a good choice

Ive had 2 lacie lego bricks. One died and I think the substantial amount of porn on the other one is what's keeping it together.

yeah ive bought them...thanks

JT definitly does, hes old Hes was an adult when this was released

Are you running front freewheel? As far as Im aware, all freewheels do something called floating (some are worse than others) Basically as you spin the cranks round it looks like the freewheel is wobbling but this also alters the chain tension as the cranks go round giving tight spots in some and loose spots in others. Find the freewheel tight spot and put the cranks in the position. Then do chain tension so that when you push the top of the chain down with a mediocre force, halfway along the chainstay, the chain deflects about say 10mm. This should be enough so as not to kill your bearings, but keeps engagement quite accurate. Remember to check chain tension with the loose spot on the freewheel (usually 180 degrees away from the tight spot) Slack chains mean that as well as the chain smashing into your chain stay every hop, drivetrain components can also skip. Tight chains mean that drivetrain components are highly stressed, in some cases wont turn, it can stress bearings in a bad way, stresses the chain... theres no benefits to doing either, you need to spend time setting up your bike before riding it [/hypocrite]

for f**ks sake not this shit again...

well i guess in other terms, assuming chain tension is perfect thoughout this: With infinite number of EP, as soon as you start to pedal, you have the rolling resistance straight away (the tyre, terrain etc) so your LEGS go from zero momentum to a small momentum, which in turn, changes your bike from zero momentum to the same, smaller momentum (allowing for gearing etc) Whereas a lower EP (and tight chain) as soon as you legs move, the resistance doesn't occur, meaning you can kick the pedals round quicker and THEN the drivetrain picks up and the resistance occurs. Im pretty certain that this feeling provides more BIKE momentum because your LEGS have more momentum by the time the drivetrain engages Thats the best I can do, if you still think im wrong then I dont think I can try to convince you otherwise

and that was 2004! Seriously he makes the sidehops look like no effort involved at all! I remember the postbox...ahhh

Thats a good idea bump though? any results muel?

yeah or that, I forgot about chain tension Nice to see someone can understand where Im coming from though

without question, but EP is a highly sought after property here in the trials world When I look for a freewheel, the first thing I want is something that wont skip, as you've commented on. The second thing I look for is EP, but not 96. The reason being, if im setting up for a short run up and theres no freewheel slack (for argument sake, call it an infinite amount of EP) I can't get any momentum from the cranks without being met by the resisting force of the wheel on the ground. As soon as I move the cranks, the wheel goes too. I find I cant get as much power to the cranks if this is the case. I prefer something like the current tensile freewheel at 60 click. Now if Im setting up, theres a bit of play between me moving the cranks without resistance, and the wheel turning. This gives me better momentum through the pedals, so that by the time the drive engages Ive got more torque going through the cranks Thats a headf*ck im sorry, but its the only way I can explain it. High EP is obviously beneficial for precision, but if you go OTT you may find yourself a bit hindered. Plus if youre poor like me, less EP is cheaper

so long as its not meant to be a serious video... LOL that was great! But please learn some TGS! I know the brits are utter slags for it, but trials is based around these moves, otherwise its what you do - bmx and you'd be much better on one of them to be honest.

he should have utilized my wise words of wisdom...

loooks very nice and guys give him a break. I bought a 17" screened laptop, with a high (at the time) spec, cost me £1000. Putting that in the car to drive to swansea to move into uni was much easier than the desktop Ive got now which takes up 4x the room...plus the monitor + speakers too Its a great looking piece of kit... I didn't know vista XP could utilise that much ram? I know 32 bit is something like 3gb, i thought 64 bit was 5gb? Might be wrong though

this boys gna be getting the ass raping of a life time by the sounds of things! The TF justice hammer strikes again

and the stackers too But please take a picture against a concrete wall too so we can actually see how nice it is

simpson, youd just have to pinch the rear wheel to do barspins flight brake pinch spin grab unpinch land anyway I really like the look of that. The time to jump on the 24" bandwagon is NOW!

QFT. Also the amount of times ive said this its now going into this condescending manor: autoPaRtZ Grinds are much better than using tar. If too much tar is applied a rear brake has a tendancy to not let go of the rim, and this is the last thing you want at the edge of a drop

Blaze, part number 2 as you've put it is NOT broken, its simply a sleeve for the bolt to pass through and also keeps the pivoting plunger bit (number 2 in mine ) in place. When you come to put the lever back in, put it in place roughly, then slot the sleeve though the blade to keep the pivoting bit in place, then slide a bolt all the way through That should help As Ash said, your tpa bit has sheared off, a common fault, so now you need to find a long m5(??) magura bolt to screw all the way in, instead of using the red TPA dial. Simply pull the red dial off, locate the bit with the thread inside it, in the lever and then start screwing the bolt in. This will replace the black bit thats broken off, but atleast you know now where it goes for future reference