downhill_rob2@hotmail.com

nah, i just took 2 diffrent pics, and they came out lol.

Yeah, i think they have only thickened the part where the wire bead from the tyre sits. so it makes it look thick...

I need to re-grind my rim tommorow night or summit, my pads were really good like 3 days ago, but then when ever i take the rear wheel out, the brake goes absolutly crap for like 3 days Meh

I couldnt be arsd to put it on lol, never wear it on garden. I know i should have, but meh Thanks anyways

copyright nice pics

I havnt heard of this happening, but it seams that its only cracking where you have been landing hard, when dinting the rim... this is surly going to put ALOT of force onto the rim (cause it goes thin where its cracked on the inside of the rim) f**k knows where im going with this hehe. No, i aint heard/seen of it happening.

I have inspired myself actually in life. When i was in year 8, man i was a tool, thinking i was cool going round smashing stuff up, but after like 1 year of doing that, i said to myself, this seams really childish and silly. so i stopped, and i have actually become a better person. But im still really selfish theres this under 18's thingy on at a night club in town, and my GF has went with her mate, im really pissed off cause i keep thinking about what she might be gettin upto n stuff, but i havnt stopped for from going (which i have done before)

But its big enough mike, you dont need to zoooooom!

no lol, its the old style louise disk brake on the front (illuminous yellow) and a 05 maggy on rear (black one) Tryed riding peter backgrens bike with the 'back to front' brake, i nearly fell off haha

You didnt get what i meant... Is that solid feeling when the pads hit the rim VERY solid and it doesnt want to pull in even 1 more mm? If it is, then the piston IS bottoming out... if your riding with the TPA right in, then the piston in the lever IS bottoming out, the brakes are designed like that... see when you fully unscrew the TPA, does the lever pull asif its a V-brake lever without a cable in, then it suddenly hit something, then the pads move? If it does, your piston is stuck in/on slightly. This is due to riding with air in your system, so you have screwed your TPA right in, so that the piston gets pushed so far in, there isnt enough power in the spring to push it back out. so... do what i said before... take bleed bolt from slave cylinder out, then push some fluid into it using a suringe. this will push more fluid into the system, pushing the pads against the rim, pushing the piston at the lever out. Then rebleed. Try that, then tell me if it works... il bet on it that it does work...

If its anything like my louise caliper, there will be a slave pad (pad closest to the wheel) there will be a disk, which you have to screw in with a 5mm allen key. screw it in like 1 turn, then the disk will work again (well mine does anyways )

lol, nah, you can hear the camera count down from 5, so you just get set up at like 2 seconds to go...

Its like 2 bikes lengths

sounds like you have got a Gud'un there mate. I havnt really had anyone like that yet but hopefully my GF will soon P.S, been with her 1 year 1 week now

they more sturdy than the pallets each time i gap from the pallets, the top pallet flys off bit i still make the gap really smoothly (H)

If your tyre is too soft, it just rims, you want enough air in, so when you gap to a rail, and balancing on the rail, it shouldnt be riming, but just about 1cm of air between the rim n rail, so it has more springiness for gapiing off the rail... Around 18Psi is good + a Specialised Heavy Duty Tube is awsome, the rubber is 2.25mm thick... so you never get pinches, i just rip the valves off all the time though

I get more spring from doing that, gets me further, but i land sideways MOST of the time

mayybe

thanks. 51 people have veiwed, and only 1 has replied, well done mate Com'om people, MORE COMMENTS!

Mahoooosive! nice one kyle

yes it is ARGH!!! blame gaz!!!! ARGH!!!!!

**sigh** Do you have a bleed kit? (shaun) ifso.... Take the bleed bolt from the slavce cylinder (next to pads) out, then put your hose with the suringe in. fill sutinge with water, then push water into the system (making sure that the grub screw at the lever is STILL IN! (dont take it out) this wil push the piston in the lever back out (good thing) then take the grub screw from the lever out, and bleed as normal... MAKE SURE YOUR TPA IS FULLY OFF WHEN DOING THIS.... Your brake will be as good as its ever been P.S, if your pads are only moving a little bit, then you HAVE got air in the system, that "solid" feeling is the brake piston in the lever bottoming out, so it wont push the pads any thurther. thats why you need to blast some water into the brake with the grub screw still in the lever, to push the piston back out so it hits the lever blade. The piston gets stuck when its pushed too far in (what you have done with using too much TPA) Try that, and then tell me if its worked

hehe, i thought i would give the TRA 10 second self timing a go, here what i came out with: Tell me what you think people P.S, they not menna be artistic before rob or someone says

Only if you dont know how to set off properly... my mates KX125 (racing tuned) doesnt lift off the gound if you do it properly (race start) but if you let the clutch out too quick, well, good bye rear mudguard

Koxx browns.... Im getting tired of saying that now...