Dan6061

Gutted.

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....5968&st=160 Bike pic thread sticky in NMC. Just look at the top of the page (below big red box) and you will see it.

Well nice, smooth riding. Video got a little repetative though... Sidehop, sidehop, tap, gap, gap, sidehop...... Still good though...

Doesn't look too bad... - http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/5day.shtml?id=2679 I'm up for it, if I can get there.. What sorta time?

Put his car in Autotrader, eBay...

I sent them this comment:

When you click the products links, they open up a new tab (in FF) instead of staying in one tab... EDIT: I think it should look like this: [attachmentid=6543]

Couldn't the people just send their 'dodgey' hubs back and get a brand new one sent out? Hope are good like that...

Buy that gun from FS/Wanted. And do some damage.

6".

Blue Bikes ***. Both looking verrrry nice. What about that Echo Lite? I wanna see pictures of that too..

16.

Chains stretch. So when you replace a few links on it, it'll have to wear down so it's all even, and they just become as weak as it was before, and snap.

Because pretty much all other cassette hub's pawls aren't strong enough to take the strain us trials riders put them through. Plus they're heavy....

The 'ferrul' that you were talking about is a barrel adjuster. Just like on cable brake levers. Use the end of a brake cable (bit that's usually in the lever) at the top of the barrel adjuster. - Like in the pic a few posts above. make sure the chain's on. Pull the cable so it's relativly tight, then do up the bolt. Now pedal the bike, if it falls towards the dropout, take a look under the mech, and you'll see a plate that the two H/L screws press on. These are caklled the Limit stops. Whichever screw is touching the plate, loosen it to move the mech away from the dropouts, and vice versa. Just fiddle around with that untill it stays in place.

No, you simply click 'Add Reply' to your own topic, then type Bump. or go crazy and type all wonderful things. (I posted a picture of Mr.Bump book) Like so.

While we're here, anyone know the one from the Vodaphone advert? "Space travels in my blood, there aint nothing i can do...." (Sorry about the thread stealer..)

Nose breakage wasn't nice. Riding on wet wall, fell forwards, faceplant. Nice. Umm..once in Milton Keynes, some little scally kid asked me for some money, so I gave him 10p and said that's all I had. Then he says "naar man can't get fag for 10p innit" so I gave him another 20p to go away. But before that, he said don't worry, I aint gunna rob you, if i did I would've knocked you out in one punch, and been off on that weird bike of yours. he was tiny His mates were alright though, one was a few years older that me, and was asking about my bike. In a friend;y way, you know. Wasn't exactly a bad excperiance...

18t at the front, 12t at the back. With 170mm cranks is perrrfect.

Maybe the guy in shop didn't actually replace your tube? I did that by accident at work once... Or he/you didn't put the tyre on properly, so the sidewalls were pinching the tube. or it was dodgey tube, I was pumping one up at work, and it blew up in my colleuges ear.

+ you lucky sod. Get to know Adam and Dave, discount... Yeah, welcome to the forum. It might scare you, unless you're like the majority of people here...

I think Mark means that if it's say, a T-Pro wheel, it'll have 10mm axels, so it'll be those nuts he'll be after. Which usually take a 15mm spanner to tighten/loosen. If he has a T-mag wheel (Sealed bearings) then he'll need the ones that take a 5mm allen key (in the picture Mark posted). If it's like on the old T-Birds (not sure if the new ones are like that) where they have a 14mm axel, then hell need wheelnuts for a 14mm axel. - Usually a 19mm spanner. I'm in such an advise-giving mood today..what work does to me..

Pshh..Us British folk take pain like a man... ...Roling on the floor in pain when we've smacked our nads on the stem... Umm yeah...Getting used to callouses is fun...I might reccomend getting some Foam grips. I got some Halfords foam grips used on race bikes i think. They were really long, so I cut them in half, and they're the perfect size. If you can find some like that, then they're great! Only cost me £5. You said you're lower back is killing you? - Mine does that occasionaly (And I'm only 16), Just try sitting right up for a while, stretch for a bit, then ride for a while. Should be ok after that.. Getting your technique right is all down to practise, which I'm sure you know. I find watching other video's of a variety of different riders helps. Pretty much all 'tricks' are done the same way. Just watch them over and over, slowing it down, playing it frame by frame if you can, to see how it's all done. Then go practise! Your bike looks great for starting on! It might be worth upgrading the back brake to a Magura HS33, then buying some Trials specific pads for it. I say this becuase Magura's have so much power, that is brilliant for Trials. And then the trials specific pads (Eg, Zoo, Plazmatic CRMs, etc) are made from so many different compounds, and have been tested as much as possible to provide the lock that is needed. It may sound like more money being spent on the bike, but it will be worth it. If you don't want to spend so much on new parts, Have a look for some Plazmatic CRV pads. These are really good trials pads for V brakes. What I might have just said might have made no sense, but have a look at some online shops like TartyBikes. They are a UK based company, and are the majority of UK riders favourite shop, they might be able to ship parts out to you in Canada if you want, but don't quote me on that. Umm..yeah, as someone has already said, Trashzen is great for learning everything! Observedtrials.net might be a more suitable forum for you, as Trials-Forum is a UK based one, so it's full of us British folk. OTN (ObservedTrials.Net) is mainly used by riders in the US. Can't think of anything else to say, so just have fun riding! And I hope what i've just typed out helps you in some way...