Dan6061

Ok... but what's that got to do with the stolen bike? From what I can understand, the bike got stolen from his garage, it's 'a basic MAD' and you're all on a chav hunt. Didn't read anything about fighting etc until now. Anyways...good luck getting it back.

From what i've heard, all these pads do is sqeuak. Don't lock too well... That's just from reading a couple of reviews on them..so I don't know really. If they sqeuak becuase of the rough surface, the only thing you can do is sand your rim back to smooth, and have a crappy brake..

Who's Damian?

Just twat it. Basically, if it's the bmx one, it hasd the two big spacers on the end. - Black is non-drive, silver drive side? They just press onto the end of the axle, which holds it all together. When you hit the axle through on the drive side, it'll push everything through, and the end cap will come off, making the axle pull through. Which would have the driver with pawls/everything, and a hub bearing. It won't damage anything, as long as the bolt is a few good turns in. - Tartybikes told me to do this too. Be careful that you don't lose any of the wafer thin spacers that go between the drive and hub bearing.

You don't need to take the cog off at all. Get the hub bolts, screw them in a bit, then hit the non-drive site with a rubber mallet. - This will push the axle through. This will leave you with the driver etc still on the axle.

Rubbish in the bin. Maxxis logo on the front tyre. Maxxis logo on the rear tyre. Road signs have switched places. Monty logo on the stem. All i've spotted...

Gusset Slim Jims. - When you get them, take out the pins, then loctite them back in. Did that with mine, and they've been great. Any ones that fall out, I just replace with old V8 pins.

DOT5.1 for Hopes. Basically, where the bleet bolt is at the caliper, undo that, and put on some sort of piping, or something to 'catch' the old oil. Undo the resovoir cap, and slowly pour it in, until you reckon there's no more air in there. You must make sure the resovoir always has oil in it. - Often best to turn the lever so the resovoir is facing straight up. Once you're confident that it's got nothing but oil in it, do up the bleed bolt at the caliper, do a final top-up of oil in the resovoir, and do up the resovoir cap. - Try not to pinch the seal!

It's not even worth 7p...

What does it say then?

..or they find any number in the phone book, and give you that.

http://biketrials.com/ http://www.trashzen.com/ All you need.

Would you change them at 2am, so it would then be 3am? Or at 1am, so it would then be 2am? Mine's already changed btw..

When you bleed it, make sure the TPA is out! You want to put the syringe into the caliper. - Where the bigger bolt comes from. This will make it easier for air to escape, as it'll float up to lever, and out. When you do up the lever bleed screw, still pump water through slowly, so you get no air in, as it always has water/oil running through it. Then once that's done up, it'll stop all the water from escaping, so you can unscrew the syringe at the caliper. You should be able to see that the caliper is full up, if not, put a few drops of water/oil in it, then do up the bleed bolt. Set it all up again, still with the TPA out, and make sure the pads are an even distance from the rim. Try and get them pretty close (I used a 50p for the pad distance) so you use little TPA. It should feel really responsive (if you used water...) If not, take the brake off, and then take it apart, click the link in my signature, and follow that guide.

Forks: Echo Lite. Cranks: Zoo, Echo etc. Tensiles if you wanna splash out. Fixed rear hub: Onza T-Master. Freewheel: Tensile. 18:12 ratio. 170mm cranks.

Nice chain.. Wheyy..another Zoo! with greeeeen. Very nice btw...

Saw an advert in the paper about this.. ..b*****d. Actually believed you too. For the record: I didn't have a clluueee what it was about... :$

How come Dave uses other people's accounts? I swear he uses like.. 5 other ones... Silly drunk.

Ring Onza/Supercycles. - Half price replacement on warrenty. Make whoever go halfs with you too.

Hello.

Nope.

If it's coming from the drivechain: Check the freewheel. - If it's loose, tighten it, or clean it. Check the chain. - Could have tight spots... Check the pedals. - They can sometimes creak, try greasing and tightening the bearings. Check the BB/Cranks. - Clean out the tapers, and oil/grease it a little bit. If it's from the steering. Check the headset. - Clean and re-grease the bearings, and make sure there's no dirt in it. Also make sure it's not loose. Check the bars. - Maybe cracked. Also take the out the stem, and give them a wipe down, also the clamp part of the stem. Sometimes they get dirty, and just creeaakk. Check the forks. - Could be cracked? Think that's it?

Where's the fun in that?

Protest? Looks alright, maybe have the title smaller, or move it so it's not covering the main part of the picture...?

300? What's it about?