forteh

Makes me feel better about my kitchen that I started in 2015, still not made the cupboard doors but it's all fully functioning and properly made (the bits that are!) edit: excuse the grubby floor, blame that on the Labrador!

I would speak to TF tuned and get them to revalve it to your weight, fox can only do so much with the limited shim stack in there to try to cover a massive range of rider weights. You need to increase the spring pressure to support the load but that can then take you outside of the damper range capacity. In something like a cane creek double barrel you have an enormous range of adjustment of 4 different damping circuits. My intense (which for all intents and purposes is the same suspension system as your frame) came with a fox rp23 and it constantly blew through the travel unless pumped up hard enough to take it outside of the sag envelope at which point the vpp works like ass. Fitted the ccdba which enabled me to balance the high speed compression damping with the spring rate and now I have a bike that pedals like a hardtail, I can't feel any bottom out and is active enough to deflect when riding over cracks in paving slabs Try getting the shock tuned first or at least chat to TFT and they will be able to suggest what your best options are.

We're looking at much less work than that fortunately, fit a new CU, shifting a couple of sockets in the kitchen and putting a few in the extension along with the lights. The rest of it is just checking it through for any gremlins hopefully

As daft as it sounds, a spot of cyanoacrylate might be enough on the spoke if you even need anything at all; the silversolder does give a lovely filleted finish once the flux is cleaned up though. Perhaps anneal and temper the stainless after soldering? The patent is quite an interesting read, I would hazard that they must have some sort of mechanical key for the CA to hold the spoke end in; could be a simple as a rolled thread, I guess it would key into the braid very freely. So how does the jig work? Must be some force to get the coil wrapped so tightly? edit: So they did look to use the finger trap to retain the spoke end but glued because you need less length (and associated weight).

What kind of f**king wizardry is that spoke jig! The results look like the videos you see of coil spring winding machines but obviously without the automation, very impressive repeatablilty though. Wonder if there is any HAZ from the soldering? I would suspect not but it would be interesting to see if an unsoldered behaved in the same manner. Do you know what load the spoke end snapped at?

Think our earths are solid green

Yeah, we've got red and black throughout, a fuse board and no consumer unit, well there is one but it's not connected to anything and the fuse board looks older... We're starting in the house extension in the next month or so and have earmarked a couple of grand from the budget to get the wiring checked over and renewed if needed. God knows how much needs doing or how much it's going to cost though!

Yup the silver soldering gives a far nicer finish and I'd warrant it's probably a stronger structure than welding such small section stainless. Also gives you a more useable flat to grip with a spanner that you'll naturally make I think the deburring on the berd spokes is because the hub holes need to be opened out to get the full splice through, I would have thought that the default j bend spoke hole chamfer might be enough.

Where's your sense of adventure young Thomas? Perhaps mask stove enamel the forks but mask off the droputs and clearcoat them so you can see any crack propegation?

I think powdercoating will give a more ductile coating and less liable to crack if the substrate cracks, personally I would go with a stove enammelling, it's more brittle and also would be period correct for the forks

Yeah, obviously berd are doing it because they can't let the customer do the splice, it would be like selling a kit of tubes and a tig welder instead of a frame Are you still having to add the extra chamfer/deburr to the hub if you're not having to push the full spliced head through the spoke hole? I think the methacrylate with a keyed spoke and a heatshrink wrap will work quite nicely. If you're not familiar with methacrylate, think of it as 2 part epoxy superglue paste, working time is very short and it cures hard enough to machine if need be.

Surely wouldn't it be simpler to not have to splice the spoke directly to the hub or is it not that much more fiddly for a one off? Admittedly it does look far, far nicer than the dogbone bits that berd use (I think they just use a length of dyneema soaked in a cyanoacrylate to make it ridgid).

Shouldn't be too hard to knock up a jig to get them all the same length if you're bonding them in. Just put the spliced end over a peg and have the nipple set in a clamp to set the length. Working out how much shorter to make them to allow for the additional stretch might take some time though.

Could replace the glass with a sheet of polycarb for child safety should it fall off the wall?

I'm thoroughly dissapointed with the safety aspect of the design or your test rig, surely it would be much more entertaining and thrilling to hang a 150kg weight off it and then add your own weight for good measure, perhaps jump up and down on it to simulate shock loading; ensure to get video evidence of the results in order to verify the validity All joking (wait, who's joking??) aside, it would be interesting to see how well a bonded nipple would hold with various embedment depths and loads. Are you intending to attempt to load your final design to destruction?

Yeah, I'd guess that Dave is much stronger, I'm 76kg without ever lifting a weight* or even stepping foot in a gym in my life or doing any significant exercise in the last 4 years. *that's not to say I haven't lifted heavy things, spent 15 years working on a travelling fairground ride which involves hand mauling 4 tonnes of bits of wood and steel in and out of a box truck.

You must be, I'm 76kg

I'm not sure which methacrylate would work successfully but I would hazard something like loctite AA3038 may do the trick. I was looking into it for repairing a badly split PE kayak, I ended up welding it in the end but that stuff is what loctite technical put me onto. I suspect that it wouldn't have proven particularly satisfactory for repairing the kayak due to poor joint mechanics but you should have a pretty good chance if you can slacken the dyneema to form a hollow sleeve that can be filled with adhesive.

Looking at it, I think the berd nipples are bonded into the rope, there appears to be quite a long straight shank at the nipple end of the rope. https://www.ridinggravel.com/components/atomik-berd-ultimate-gravel-wheels-getting-rolling/ The close up photo shows what looks like adhesive, perhaps they use a keyed spoke end (more rolled threads would suffice) and thread that with adhesive into the cut end of the rope. Perhaps it's clamped during curing but with something like methacrylate I would be suprised if you couldn't get a good bond on it as it will key into the fibres of rope as well as the keyed spoke.

Wait till you have to relocate a toilet edit: one caveat is that manliless feelings only persist if the toilet doesn't leak everywhere afterwards....

I remember splicing hemp ropes with my dad for our canal boat, was a little simpler due to only being about 9 cores but yeah, wouldn't fancy doing it for each and every spoke! We use uhmwpe (trade names of perplas or cestilene) at work for submerged journal bearings, run it on a stainless shaft and you have a completely water proof bearing, it's a pig to machine to tight tolerances though as it's soft as shite Given that it's not a particularly strong material I'm curious as to what gives the rope it's tensile properties?

Looks more like a Duplo cat?

Ah the joys of being the single earner of a pittance, way below any such threshold so get all of the tax benefits

We're still masking up at work when moving around the offices or where we can't keep 2m apart, it's been like that since the first lockdown. There are only 14 people essentially running all of the company so if covid were to spread in the offices it could sink is so the MD has enforced the distancing and masking. It all makes perfect sense and we've had zero work related transmissions. I've not stopped masking up in shops despite the guidelines and will continue to do so when I'm out of isolation on the 4th. I'm not scared of it but as the vaccinations do nothing to affect transmission it seems illogical to pretend it's not there which a large proportion of people seem to think. As above, in not interested in boosters, I've had two shots already, I think they helped as the infection experience wasn't too bad (I could have taken more painkillers to manage it better but in all honesty I couldn't be bothered).

So three days into covid and most of the symptons have eased, personally only a mild cough, aching joints, burning sinuses and pain in the back of the eyeballs, bit of a runny nose and some sneezing but not much worse than a crappy cold. Mrs wife has suffered more with her throat being red raw but she's always been very susceptible to tonsil and sinus pain, she's through the worst of it as well. Kids couldn't really care less other than being off their food for a day or so! Cold and flu drugs helped mostly, only needing two in the morning and two before bed to try to ease a nights sleep, hot ribena helped quite a lot