forteh

My Rainbird wit detector is obviously faulty! He's 4 in March

Horrible situation to be in, can't even begin to imagine Best of luck to you, stay safe if you can and hope you can get out!

Aneurin just has one for overnight or if we're out of the house

30° washes are the devils work, doesn't clear out the bacteria anywhere near as well. @Muel be aware that washing synthetics at 60° can actually bake the smell into them, to keep them smelling fresh wash them with dettol laundry cleanser and then use 40° synthetic cycles. Time is the critical component really. I've spent best part of 7 years washing nappies, I know a thing or two about getting smells out

Our washing cycles are typically 2-4 hours each depending on how much is there and what it is. More energy efficient to do a full load

Another cannock vote as I'm 11 miles away! But ONLY if you come in that lycra

Aneurin was walking up and down stairs at 8 months, soon discovered that stair gates were a simple obstacle to overcome! Figured out how to open them but generally lacked the strength to open them every time so was easier to just climb over the top or wriggle underneath onto the first step

Bloody double post!

f**k no, when they walk, they get into places they couldn't get before; be on your guard edit: once they get to 18 months and strong enough for a shotgun seat then it's bloody amazing! Mums are the real troopers, us dads have it real easy. For both Persphone and Aneurin if I could have shared the feeding I would have, however if that were the case I may have also become distracted by the norks I'd just grown for the purpose!

It's that rainbird!

Or set it at 1/10th throttle opening and reap the fuel saving benfits In van news, the new ECU has taken it from 98bhp (310CDI) to 130bhp (313CDI) and it's transformed it when driving. 2.9 tonnes meant that it was so lacking in torque that any hill required dropping 3 gears and planting it, now I can drop to 5th and she just cruises up them. Fueal economy has also improved by 10-15% straight off because the engine isn't working so hard

Only cheaper because I have a tame CNC operator at work and we're not massively busy in the factory at the moment

The van is back home! ECU blew up on Easter Sunday and it's been away since, having a replacement transplanted back in. It was a 98bhp 310cdi, it's now a 130bhp 313cdi The suspension on the car is worn out and has gotten very sketchy to drive so having the second vehicle again is a life saver!

There's a reason for that Bring the kids, can do laps of the super easy blue or a loop of the red - Aneurin loves the shotgun round follow the dog edit: or if you're sans kids then go for faster harder longer!

The ai is becoming sentient, it's how it begins with forum spam bots

Holy shit these things are stupendous. Like incredible. Sooo much control, I've just been flying a ka50 in a circle strafe around a train traveling 90kmh, 10m off the ground. Old rudder pedals would never allow such shenanigans. Sensitive enough that I can transition the gun pipper on the A10C sideways by 5m on a target 1.5 miles away yet at full deflection it puts so much rudder input into the plane, it flips over on it's back at will. Even better they're silent and completely stiction free

Sensor clamp and magnet bracket made up, magnet is one salvaged from an old HDD. Turns out that the original intended magnets weren't really big or strong enough and weren't giving great results over the full range of motion; new one is much stronger and large enough for the sensor to not pass over it's boundary. Made a small angle bracket to glue the magnet to and clamped the sensor behind an offcut of aluminium flat, cut a slot into the back of the clamp plate to keep the sensor and wires all contained and aligned. Also got a couple of videos to show the operation: - Half spring tension https://photos.app.goo.gl/bXWBLPt8H5n9UBKR6 Full spring tension https://photos.app.goo.gl/Mjg6RuouGbyBTatHA Spring tension released for helos https://photos.app.goo.gl/623PBkMJt7moS9JE8

That's a bit crap, I'll reattach then when I'm back on the computer, currently toddler cuddling on the sofa edit: reattached photos above, I've made the minor tweaks to the cam link plate that lets me recentre the cam much better and repositioned the lower end of the damper struts so that they don't limit the stroke now. Hopefully at the weekend I'll be able to get the main cross beam sensor and magnet fitted, get them bolted onto my desk and go fly with them. I'll add the toe brakes when I've got the bits.

Did some making A couple of bits to tweak but for a first dry run it's not gone together too badly. Got to wait for the laser cut toebrake parts so I can tweak the mechanism till then. Spring preload works really nicely with the dampers, with it wound to almost zero preload they stick in one position, wind the preload on an inch and they smoothly return to centre without a noise

Because my flight sim rudder pedals are now close to 20 years old and getting rather clunky and stiff I figured I would make a new set to fit within the physical constraints of my nerd cupboard. Ideally I would have a set of thrustmaster TPR rudders but the 400 quid outlay isn't possible and the central support design prevents access to my sim racing pedals. I've approached the design based upon the mechanism of the TPR but with outboard supports rather than inboard. I've decided to use a cam driven centering spring which has adjustable preload and can be backed off entirely in order to make the pedals better suited for helicopter usage (antitorque pedals in helicopters don't self centre like plane rudder pedals do). In addition to the main rudder axis (one pedal forwards one pedal backwards) there are left and right toebrakes that are applied by rolling your foot forwards. All three axes will be positionally read by hall sensors (magnetic sensitive sensors essentially) and rare earth magnets. The toe brakes will have miniature has struts on them for spring return and damping. I'll be using another couple of struts set at mid stroke to damp the motion of the main pedal arms. edit: added a second pair of gas struts to act as a damper for the main pedals. For plane use, engage the centering spring by winding up the preload collar on the pull rod, for helicopter use release the preload entirely and the dampers should hold it in a set position as per real life. Also found a clevis under my work desk that has been there for the last 10 years or so, makes the pull rod much simpler to construct.

Starter motor replaced, 25 quid from eBay and 90 minutes faffing and she starts again

Van is needing a new ECU, in addition to clocks, immobiliser, keybox, steering lock and key..... Hopefully we might get it back this week. Bonus is that the replacement ECU is from a 313 so the power will be going up to 130 from the palty 100 which frankly struggled with a 2.9t van. Saves the cost of getting it remapped and it's obviously going to be a certified good mercedes tune In other news, the starter motor on the smax appears to have gone up the swanny now so we're currently without vehicles all together

Sort of in the same vein... What if I want a wide range 9 speed? Also how rigid are the maximum cassette sizes dictated by the mech? I currently have an xt m786 10 speed running 32t on a 9 speed 11-34 cassette, driven by a 9 speed SRAM x5 shifter (1/4" thick spacer under the cable clamp on the mech to correct the actuation ratio). When my current chain/cassette dies then I'm planning on putting a larger cassette and chainring on to improve both high and low gear ratios. The mech is rated for 36t maximum low sprocket, if it possible to easily increase this?

So basically apple f**king you over because of a proprietary API demanding specific hardware

Well that sucks that you can't just use any GPU I had the option to buy an RX580 when I bought my GTX1070 three years ago, was about 175 quid back then but I went with the 1070 at the slightly more expensive 200 quid because it was faster. Sold the 1070 for 300 quid last november and bought the RTX3070 for 469.