forteh

Got my discotech off travistrials and its perfect, I believe it has been serviced by tarty at some point. Never skipped and very light, mines got the alu driveshell, you cant really run singlespeed on it (unless you have a kingcog like me :lol: ) cos the driveshell dies very quickly. i dont run a disk on the rear so cant comment, but overall its awesome.

I weighed mine at work on the digital scales in the stores, came in at 10.5kg which is 23.1lbs, not exactly rocket science :mellow:

23.1 lbs for my zoo boa, singlespeed only single disk though, not really tried going for lightweight but I dont think its that bad :mellow:

Dont know what the rear of the echo is but my boa is 385mm, and with 1/2 mm of filing you can run a 20-16 single speed withotu a tensioner, saved me 600 grams off the back wheel by doing that (Y)

Now ive gone to 20-16 ratio I can run without a tensioner on my zoo boa. The chain was stupidly tight beforehand, just filed 1/2 mm out of the front of both dropouts and its perfect. Its great, cos the drive is instant with no slap or noise, one of the best mods to my bike Ive made :o

Usually, strip the bars from the stem, lightly grease the contact points and all the bolts and reassemble, should stop the creaking. Otherwise i suppose its possible that the aluminium liner to the bars has seperated from the carbon (assuming they are aluminium wrapped bars like most carbon trials bars).

superglue is not really a good idea due to it not being waterproof once set <_<

Your frame choice depends largely on what you like in a bike, with a bmx the only frame variable typically available is toptube and chainstay lengths. If youre aiming for the technical flicking/spinning street then I would recommend a shorter toptube with a short rear end. If youre more into flowing street and jumping/dirt then a longer bike gives much more stability in the air (sorta like the difference between an orange zero and a bt raven). 21" toptube is considered to be a long frame, 19" is short, chainstays vary from 13.5" - 15" depending on the type of bike. Personally i find that the shorter the chainstays the better, bu then thats cos I love to manual for miles :S I ride a standard STA 21" on street (and used to ride trails) and it rides lovely, imho standard make the nicest frames (also expensive) to ride once built up with decent components; Im 5'8" and handle the 21" tt fine. The 4seasons is pretty much the same geometry and weight as the standard so should ride nice :D oh for the record heres mine :rolleyes: standard sta500, s&m pitch forks, profile race, profile ss rear hub dk race front hub c/w s&m axle extenders, primo hulahoops, primo mustache bars, tech77 lever with evolver brake (works like amaggie :D )

I cant really comment because I have a king on 26", however I would imagine that it is the same as swapping from a hope rear hub to a king. Relatively the cost is alot more, but the riding experence is sooooo much better, if you can afford to get an ENO (20") or a king (26") then I would say by all means go for it. Once you have used a high engagement drive you wont want to go back :turned:

sorry, but I couldnt resist :D

Pads: rim jam greens Time used: 4 hours Rim used: koxx Grind: fresh medium Brake used: Magura, RB echo control booster on rear of a zoo! boa What is your opinion of a working brake: Must hold solid but also bite well, modulatin a bonus but not necessary as i manual without the brake :) How do they compare to previous pads you have used: Rediculously good - previous pads were koxx brown, instant bite and lock solid. Review: Got these from dave @ tarty on friday morning, rode street for 2 hours on saturday till i got piss wet through, went out for 2 more hours of street tonight and the pads are 75% gone, i doubt i will see another ride out of them :) Definitely the best pads ive ever used but definitely not worth a tenner for 1 good long days riding, The pads were set up perfectly square and bedded in instantly with a good loud honk and awesome bite. After the 1st 2 hour ride the pads had worn at an angle (i guess due to the pads being a sloppy fit in the guides, the brake was bollocked up tight), reset the brake tonight and the same happened again, i now have 2 pads that are worn at such an angle that ill only get another 2 hours out of them!!! Pic shows wear rate from 4 hours of riding pretty mild street, awesome pads but will die in a good days riding with a grind :|

Got one on the back of my zoo boa with a water bleed and echo control booster Good points:- super comfy, great feel (same as the hope mini on the front) and oodles of power, never leaked and ive only cleaned it out once in the last 10 months bad points:- more sponge from frame flex, but to be honest i prefer the feel of an rb to a normal maggie with a stiff frame (eg a pitbull without a booster) need a straighter rim cos you cant get so much pad travel with them thats it get one second hand, clean and lightly grease the seals if youre using water fit a decent booster and youre laughing should the seals go then just take them to a seal stockist and ask them for a new couple of o-rings the same size & shape (or go to heatsink:)) my 2$

I always use puncture repair glue, bodge loads down the grip before you slide it on, wipe of the excess and leave to dry for an hour or so before riding. Holds the grips really well and they dont fall off when they get wet ^_^ Can be a bitch to get the grips off though, a slim allen key or screwdriver downt he insie of the grip can usually free it up

26 next saturday, but you're only as old as the woman you're feeling so that would make me 18 then (Y) or a cradle snatcher :-"