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forteh

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Everything posted by forteh

  1. Theres no reason why you cant as long as you can bollock the axle up enough to stop the wheel moving in the dropouts. Ive run single chain tensioner on my bmx for years and never had any problems, I have got a 14mm steel axle and a big pole to tighten it up with though
  2. This thread is useless without pictures My most recent serious injury was bmx handlebars embedded into the top of my right thigh, I mean right at the top and inch to the left and no kids and 2mm to the right I would have died in a pool of my own blood in the skatepark As it was the bars punched a hole straight through my jeans and neatly applecored a 7/8" diameter hole out of my groin. Having fallen off the bike in a tangled heap I kicked it away with my left leg and it skidded away with a lovely trail of flesh hanging out the end of the handlebars My mates dragged me over to the wall and propped me up whilst I put pressure on it - its soo awesome to get dragged through pools of your own blood :D The bars went into my leg a full 3", the grip was rolled back as a witness to this. The result was 4 subcutaneous stitches to sew the hole up and another 5 to close the entry wound, the doctors could see the femoral artery in the bottom of the hole - I was so very close to killing myself Suffered minor nerve damage which meant it felt like someone was sandpapering my inner thigh for 18 months. Now have a neat scar at the top of me leg but I dont show it off in public in general The moral of the story is dont go riding after a 17 pint all day bender starting the previous lunchtime and dont rely on plastic bar plugs to save you - I have the blood soaked remains of an odi bar plug wedged in my bars somewhere, oh and that samsung d600s dont like to be soaked in blood
  3. Ive got a set of backings from some old koolstop reds you can have, pm your address and Ill bung them in the post
  4. Straight butted steel tube = heavy To build a lightweight steel frame you need to invest very heavily in materials and tooling.
  5. Go Go Huge HAZ :D Nice one, I designed a bmx frame at uni for my final year project; was only a design exercise though, was never intended for manufacture. Hope it doesnt snap at an inoppurtune moment
  6. Well seriolys should you? Welcome to new members chat, expect to be here for a long time
  7. I bet your mates were spraying over existing powdercoat, this will give a better surface for the paint to adhere to. For a trials frame I wouldnt do anything other than powdercoat
  8. Did you degrease the frame before primering it? Cheaper to get it powdercoated, should cost more than 10-15 quid if you ask nicely
  9. Depends how confident you are and how much time you have If you read the right guides its easy, more so with 32/36 hole 26" rims because you have loads of room to thread the spokes in, I taught myself on 48 spoke 20" bmx rims and that took a while If you do go for it yourself then make sure you know all the mechanics of trueing a wheel, ie: how to get flat spots and bounces out of the rim aswell as getting it straight. Also invest in a decent spoke key that is the right size, Ive used a fair few different types over the years and imho the park spoke keys are by far the best. If you have a cheap spoke key then youre more likely to round off the nipples when tightening them and they also hurt your fingers more Basically if you can see yourself building/trueing more wheels in the future then go for it IMHO 15 quid for a wheel build is expensive, mine only cost me a fiver if I get them done.
  10. As Im 'finding' my trials legs again Ill try the lighter gearing and perhaps put a 15t on the rear when I can pull the harder ratio
  11. Im expecting some cnc reds through the post from steve tomorrow, I shall have to dig out me switch card again, get paid on thursday wooo
  12. If heatsink dont have any to hand then I shall go to trials-uk, tarty dont do the cloud9 and thats my only option to run 18t front. Cheers for the heads up
  13. When the roofers were redoing the flat roof at work I asked if they had any tar spare, was only expecting about an inch ball of it and ended up with half a breeze blocks worth Its very good stuff, makes my 4 year old brown koxxbloxx work again
  14. Guess Ill have to be throwing some money at heatsink again then
  15. Balls, 25 aint old, Im 29 in may and there are plenty older on these forums
  16. I assume you mean the cheap steel ones not the expensive ti ones Not got funbolts on my king rear so will bolt that up solid aswell
  17. Is the right answer thank you Something like these? Or should I waste 22 quid and save 80g off me bike?
  18. Sorry about the stupid question :$ Ive used the search and come to the conclusion that common gearing for stock is 1.125:1 (18/16) or 1.2:1 (18/15), Im currently running 20/16 with 165 cranks Ive used this gearing for ever and never really used much else in the last 6 years (probably through ignorance), however Ive always been shite at gapping, particularly from static Would dropping the gearing make gapping further easier? Im figuring it would as with the current gearing I dont think Im accelerating the cranks fast enough to get enough forward motion before I take off; or am I just being a big girl and need to learn the technique better? My next question is should I get a larger 17t king cog on the rear (20/17 = 1.17:1) or should I keep my 16t king cog and buy the cloud9 bash and 18t ring from heatsink and shed a bit more weight? For reference Im 5'8" 11 stone and faily slim build, got plenty of slow strength but not so much explosive power if that makes sense.
  19. You dont need to take the resevoir cap off to push the pistons back in, leave it on If you read the whole topic you would find that his seals have failed and have admitted air into the system
  20. My zoo boa (now cracked) was 10.45kg / 23lb with the same set up, the hifi frame is heavier. Erm yeah its a stock sorry, I wont try to make it lighter now Still doesnt mean I can ride for shit
  21. Only thing to do is put new seals in, either phone up hope for some more or talk to your local dealer, iirc the seals for my mini caliper were about 5 quid Getting the bore plug out without the right tool could be interesting though - hope can supply you with one though. edit: Exploded view of the mono trial caliper. And the bore cap tool.
  22. Watching tunni gap to the boat at the malthouse in brum, then watching ginger ben almost die trying to do it (lost a shoe in the process ) Oh how we laughed Unfortunately the phone that I recorded the video on was destroyed when I soaked it in my blood following my handlebar/leg interface at epic skatepark on my bmx
  23. Have to dissagree Im afraid, in my experience: - Etnies and Duffs are very, very durable and comfy. DC, vans and airwalk have all fallen apart for me before the above did. Also had a pair of emericas that lasted forever I know this doesnt help you but TK maxx often has etnies and duffs in for 30 quid a pair - bargain shoes!
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