forteh

My square taper cranks never need tightening, not once in 4 years Im still reckoning on dead cranks, how tight do you call tight? When tightening my cranks using a long series 8mm allen key I reckon I put about 40-45kg into the allen key, that equates to about 60-70 Nm torque, not uber tight but it works. If youre going to use loctite then make sure you have the right grade for the job, thoroughly degrease both threads with a proper degreaser (not something like muc-off, more like MEK or cellulose thinners) apply the loctite and torque it up, leave it to set and go ride. Loctite will never stop a crank from wobbling if the taper/splines are knackered though. edit: reading that you have square taper, make sure that the taper isnt pulling too far through the cranks, its possible the taper was cut incorrectly.

Cranks are f**ked and you dont know how to use loctite

To get up on the higher stuff you just need to go faster and bunnyhop/tap up it, easier to learn on bigger stuff on a bmx because its easier to bunnyhop and fakie. The higher you land from the faster you have to fakie - love abubaccas on quarters the feeling of nailing the tyre on the face of the coping is ace

Assuming you mean hopping onto the edge and coming off square and landing backwards? Thats an abubacca Once youre landed on the edge, you just need to pull off backwards - pull the bars back towards you and as they come up to above the bb/rear axle simply hop the rear wheel off using your body weight. Practise on curbs first and learn how to step off backwards without hurting yourself. Whilst youre in the air, going backwards you either need keep the front wheel up and land with the brake locked or let go of the rear brake and level the bike off so it lands with the back wheel just before the front. If your front wheel is too high when the back touches youre likely to go flying on your arse if your brake isnt locked. The action of doing the hop with your body weight should bring the back wheel up underneath you to level the bike off. Once youve touched down its either carry on hopping on the back wheel or learn to ride fakie, but thats another story......

Got V8s on my trials bike, old shape V12s on my bmx and easton flatboys on my santa cruz, they eastons are by far the best pedals Ive used, alittle loathe to use 70 quid pedals on the trials bike though so Ill just keep with the dmrs IMHO you cant beat the original DXs (the reason I still have a set of old shape V12s on my standard) will certainly look at the mx30s for future pedal needs though

Heatsink cnc reds on an echo hifi with an echo control booster works worse than without, more flex but way more bite and hold

The way I true my wheels: - Get a zip tie and stick it round the fork leg/seat stay and cut the tail to a length that you can set so it touches the rim - I use the zip tie rather than the brake blocks because you can adjust it as much as you like, it can be set so that it just kisses the rim at the high spots so you can see which bits need pulling over I only use park spoke keys, whilst theyre more expensive theyre the most comfortable Ive used and they dont have a habit of mullering the nipples Always working from the valve hole in the same direction can keep things simpler. Tension each spoke in turn working round the wheel (I usually keep going until the the spoke thread is flush with the top of the nipple head but that depends on spoke lengths) Once you have done a complete wheel then check the spokes for tension, if theyre not tight enough then go round again and tighten them half turn at a time till the wheel is tight - with any luck this should make the wheel round If the wheel needs dishing (pulling over to one side) then loosen one spoke on the one side and tighen the next. eg: if the rim needs pulling to the left then you loosen the 1st spoke on the right hub flange by 1 turn and tighten the next spoke by 1 turn (should be on the left hub flange unless you spooned the lacing ) Once you have done the whole rim check it for dish again and repeat as necessary. If the wheel is egged and you know the rim is true its usually (in my experience) a lacing problem, check the spoke tensions and the amount of thread sticking though the nipple, also ensure the nipple is seated properly in the rim. Once youre happy with the rough dishing of the rim and its nominally central in the frame then you just need to get it straight - again in my experience if the spoke tensions are pretty even then it will be a straight build. Spin the wheel and note where the high spots are, set the zip tie so that it touches at the high spots only. Turn the wheel slowly until you hit a high spot and pull the rim over as you did when dishing, keep working round the wheel progressively closing down the tolerance on the zip tie and you will get a straight wheel. If you find the dishing comes slightly out of line whilst truing simply dish it over exactly as before. Once the wheel is straight, round and central you can give the spokes a final tension (or you may find that they will be pretty tight after truing) and just check it all. Finally before you put it back together it helps to stress relieve the spokes to help them bed in after tensioning - simply grab 2 sets of spokes where they cross over on the same side and squeeze them together along the lateral axis of the wheel, you should hear them ping as they settle against each other. Work your way around the wheel untill its stopped pinging, alternatively just go ride the f**ker and it will bed itself in Go ride for a bit, take a spoke key with you and check the wheel every so often, if you find a wobble on it then simply true it and retension the spokes

Supercycles is onza

You could try onza directly

Ive recently been suffering with graphical anomalies with my twin 7900 gs sli setup, most particularly in assassins creed and I tried everything to try and sort it with no joy Took one of the cards out to see if its likely to be heat related and all the problems have disssapeared As it is assassins creed runs maxed out on one 7900gs just fine so now I have a spare 7900gs, wanna buy one?

Talk to a physio, they will be able to do what 99% of people here cant do - internet diagnosis for anything is never guaranteed Cortisone is a steroid medication that has good anti-inflammatory properties.

On the trials bike its over the bars to pallet kiss - almost bit through my bottom lip in 3 places and it was bleeding for 4 days because every time I laughed/smiled/talked/ate etc it just opened the holes up On the bmx its either: - Over the bars to coping kiss (recurring theme there) on a miniramp - overnight stay in hospital with 4 days of concussion, amnesia for 2 weeks (still dont remember doing it) and loose front teeth for a while. or Deadsailor over the jumpbox at epic in brum - to tangled heap on the floor - to handlebars stuck into groin. Destroyed the plastic bar plug that was in the bars and proceeded to apple core 3" out of the top of my right thigh - a good chunk of flesh was left in the end of the bars when I kicked the bike away Another overnight stay, 5 stiches to close the hole up and another 4 to seal the top - an inch to the left and no more kids for me, 2mm to the right and no more me as they could see my femoral artery in the bottom of the hole Its really cool to be sitting in a pool of youre own blood though

Doesnt sound like tennis elbow as that affect the tendons on the outside of the elbow. I suffered from tendonitis in my fingers years ago when I was riding bmx all the time, would get burning sensations in my fingers and eventually they would cramp up and I couldnt let go of the bars; not suffered from it much recently but Ive had a 2-3 year break from riding all the time. Could it be a trapped nerve in your elbow? In my experience that tends to be a shooting pain rather than a throb like tendonitis, also dont forget that your funnybone is in your elbow (just a big bundle of nerves that is exposed on the inside/back so it hurts when you hit it).

Practise practise practise Learn to be looser and more relaxed on the bike and how to step off the bike when you need to bail, trashzen has everything you need to know about the basics. A well set up brake that you can rely on and trust to hold you is a massive confidence booster, so is a grippy big tyre on the back as it gives you a larger contact patch to balance on.

Almost 100 quid for the toolset, nice as they are, its a bit outside of the budget for most people Cheaper to send it to tarty for a service

Any decent tool & bearing shop should stock them, you must be able to find one in london RS have a trade counter in Bow that you should be able to pick one up from, a bit expensive though but you get a kit of 20 inserts so enough to to 5 frames M5 Helicoil kit

Pretty much, yup

How about a T-rex stem?

Shimano solid axle, UN54 is it these days? The isis spindle might be alittle stiffer but the crank interface is a poor design that doesnt facilitate repeated crank removal, the bearings are also much much shorter lived because theyre half the size. Im sticking square taper, mainly because I have 2 sets of RS7s in square and imho its a better system edit: Think the solid axle is UN53 - depends on how heavy you are, if youre a smooth/lighter rider go for the UN54 with the hollow axle

Whenever Ive used a mech for tensioning Ive always left the spring in, locked it off with the screws and zip-tied the parallelogram section tight to the underside of the chainstays and just used the arm to do the tensioning - usually shorten the chain as much as possible so that the jockey wheels are almost inline (inside the chainstay) and the tension increases. It doesnt bang or clatter, gives good tension and is pretty solid - heavier than having a proper tensioner though

Depending on the moment ratios but yes it will make a difference For example: - 105mm arm with the pad 25mm from the pivot (bottom of slots) will give 4.2:1 mechanical advantage on the force applied to the rim. 105mm arm with the pad 35mm from the pivot (top of the slots) will give 3:1 mechanical advantage on the force applied to the rim. Thats almost 30% more mechanical advantage - the dimensions are guessed but the same principles are applied. If you can manufacture some v-daptors which will increase your mechanical advantage by moving the pads closer to the pivot then it will help, although it will introduce more flex so a booster will probably be in order.

For rubber grips use petrol, almost instant drying time, sticks perfectly and smells nice Not sure if its such a good idea for foam grips though

Sounds like a cracked ball, if its a creaking noise its more likely to be loose cranks or BB but in my experience a cracking noise is dead balls. Take the BB out and turn it by hand whilst holding the shell, you should be able to feel a notch or roughness when it makes the noise

If its square taper then youre about stuffed as youve probably stretched the square by overtightening it, if its isis then its just the crap design of the isis spline Loctite wont glue a rocking spline together, it will stop a tight spline or a bolt from coming loose though That is assuming you used the loctite properly.

Its pretty easy, undo the wheel and it falls out the dropout putting enough slack in the chain to get it off the sprocket/roller. Putting it in a bit trickier because you need to put the wheel in with the chain off the front sprocket, then wind it on whilst pulling the tensioner out by hand. All in its still easier than putting a wheel in with a mech Eventually if the pivot fails I shall probably re-engineer it properly to incorporate a radial spring tensioner like U brakes, also make the arm from aluminium plate rather than stainless as its lighter.