forteh

Just weighed one, 2.2kg with the bashguard and headset cups

Just ground the rim and it looks something like this What would you classify that as with regards to harshness? I didnt put too much pressure on the grinder so its not very deep. Not tested it yet properly because my right arm is dead and I need to rest it for a day or so, a quick hop round the garden gave a loud honk and decentish bite, pads wont have worn into it yet though.

I use 25 front and 20 rear. Front tyre is 26x2.35 single ply maxxis larsen tt on a mavic xc717, rear tyre is a 26x2.5 dual ply maxxis high roller on a tryall. I weigh 11 - 11.5 stone and the rear tyre rarely bottoms out, is still very grippy and stable

Got a brand new 1mm metal cutting disk sitting on the desk in front of me, will borrow a grinder tonight and have a play I very rarely use the rear brake for more than 1/4 - 1/2 sec. at a time when rolling, most of it is done with the front disk Do tryalls actually hold grinds? I heard from somewhere ages ago that theyre softer aluminium than others and dont hold grinds as long, any got any experiences? How long should a grind last typically?

Also drop a little oil into the pivot and brass barrell on the lever, can make a huge difference if its run dry

Is it possible to make a grind last longer with a different technique? My last grind went dull in about a week (maybe 6-7 hours riding) but it wasnt a particularly good grind to start with (had the grinder at quite a shallow angle so wasnt very sharp). For a while I had a booster on and the brake was too stiff and not holding, would this wear the grind out quicker or will it wear just as quick without a booster? I am going to try another grind to see if it lasts longer; Im going to keep the disk at 90 degrees to the rim as per krisboats excellent video and hopefully it will work better. Its a tryall rim with cnc reds, Im aiming for a light, sharp grind - any pointers or tips? Beers in advance

Wooo got summat right

I would try taking the wheel and pads out, pump the pistons out with the lever and run some silicone oil around the outside of the pistons - with any luck it might get some lube onto the sticky seal. Other alternative is to strip it completely and service with new seals.

Also twice the weight, depends if youre a weight weenie really

Installing windoze is pretty easy if you apply a little logic and follow the instructions I dont know about the mobo youre getting but if youre installing windows onto a SATA hard disk, mine requires that you have a floppy drive to install the drivers (from floppy disk) for the sata controller before you start trying to install windows - just something that you should be aware of; you can alway sborrow a floppy out of another machine When setting up windows its a sensible time to create any partitions if you want to, I have my 160gig disk split into 20 and 140 so I can format C:\ but still retain most of my stuff on the D:\. All instructions are on screen so nothing really to worry about. As youre buying new you should have current drivers disks and software, always worth going and downloading the latest version of the drivers for your hardware as the ones that they come with are invariably out of date the moment theyre shipped You can always ask on a friendly forum if you get stuck

A single nvidea 9700gs on that system will play most modern games at acceptable framerates, you can pick them up for about 50 quid now Infact I have one spare right now

True, who knows what the penetration on the weld is like Ignore what I said and leave 2-3mm sticking proud

It would be far better to machine them out with a dremel and some carbide cutters/burrs, will take the material out faster and allow you to easily leave rounded corners rather that square ones which will just propogate cracks

No reason why not, best to cut the seat tube down flush with the top of top tube though. Cover it with a monty seat pad, a large thick sticker or some gaffer tape Cut it off roughly with a hacksaw then carefully file/grind the remaining material and weld do untill its a flush joint, shouldnt afffect the integrity of the frame a great deal. edit: too slow

Pedalstroke to get it up on the back wheel

It does if the graphics drivers are absolute bobbins Also you need twice the memory for games to run under vista against xp

Lose the vista and it will be much betterer I have near the same spec rig at home except I have a 4400 x2, 3 gig of normal ddr and 7900gs sli running win xp - it plays most recent games at high-max quality with reasonable framerates although some of the newer pc releases (not xbox360 ports) do make it struggle a bit. You will definitely need a better psu, Im using an OCZ 520w and never had any problems with it - spend as much as you can afford on your psu, especially if you are intending to upgrade to a better spec at a later date

^^ What he said, if the replacement caliper is dry you will need to rebleed but as your lever and line are already charged and bled that should be pretty simple

Most of the weight is taken on the joint between the 2 parts at most, its pretty sturdy and shouldnt move. The great thing about plastics is that they creep rather than failing quickly like work hardened aluminium Duly noted Im not what could be considered a big rider, dont do big drops or gaps to front (read that as cant ) and generally try to be smoother on smaller stuff than balls out harsh on bigger stuff. Will keep an eye on them though. In reality Im only really using 25-30mm extensions as my hands arent at the outside of the grips.

I suspect he means mag body, ti axle A bit confusing as he mentions mag cage platform pedals int he same sentence

Noshit, Ive been riding bmx since '96 Just that all of the l/h drives Ive seen are cassette hubs not screw on freewheel - its highly unlikely that a bmx cassette hub will stand up to the forces imparted on the pawl by trials (well apart from profiles, do they make l/h drive?) edit: yup profile do a l/h drive version of the SS hub, waay too heavy for trials, you would probably have to replace the axle for ti to get it down to a sensible weight

Been out for a few hours tonight with the new bars and the ride of the bike has transformed Bars tips are now 2" higher at 41.5" with much more upsweep and alittle more back. The bike has become much more floaty as a result and balancing has become alot easier - Im currently really loving the wide bars

Try asking this bloke, he might know

Believe BB7s are better suited for trials than the juicies, could be wrong though Personally I use a 203 mono trial up front and an RB/hs33 with cnc heatsinks on the back.

You would need an opposite hand freewheel or a left hand drive cassette hub. To the best of my knowledge a l/h freewheel isnt made, but there are plenty of l/h drive bmx hubs out there - as to whether they can take trials forces is another question.