forteh

My phlegm isnt sticky enough I have petrol readily available from the motorbike in my kitchen

Thats why Ive used it without a problem for the last 10 years with all my grips (motorbikes/jump bike/trials bike/bmx) Go on try it, watch your grips melt into a steaming piece of molten rubber

As if the boxx isnt light enough already

:D :D

I use 165s on stock, Im still wank though

I never said get rid of the callouses Grind them smooth so you have the callous area but not the thickness, if they get too thick then they pull away from the underlying flesh and you get blisters under the callous As soon as mine start to break up on the surface and you can the layers of dead skin I smooth them off. It keeps them flexible enough to not hurt but still provide sufficient wear pad. 15 years of riding and never had a problem with callouses or blisters edit: to grind my callouses off completely right now I would have to dig holes in my hands

Add a wire brush on a drill and no eye protection and it stings a touch Has a nasty habit of sticking to any available are of skin/eye tissue like napalm

Would guess about 40-50 quid? Depends on whos buying it and what they want to pay for it Its worth bearing in mind that the ti freehub can be put into other older hope hubs. When I upgraded my santacruz chameleon to double disk I had a non-disk ti glide on the rear but needed a disk hub; being a tart I got a new wheel built up onto a hope xc (steel freehub) and swapped the ti freehub over Worked perfectly ever since but its definitely not a trials hub.

Just buy 1 litre of the stuff, you can always strip more frames in future I reckon you could strip a frame with less than 250ml. Blasting is the best way to get powdercoating off, you can nitromors it but its hard work if the powdercoat is half decent.

Use petrol to put the grips on and you have no problems getting them off My odi roughnecks are worn super thin now and I can just roll them off the bars, a splash of petrol inside, slide them on and let them dry for 5-10 mins before riding and its all good.

Thats john o'leary round the back of carols store in lichfield, tis my local pallet spot Was on one of the old trialsworks videos that ben trinder did when john was sponsered by zoo. Good old chainsnaps

Where there is minimal stress (front of the head tube is a good example) its safe to take some material out, the same can be applied to alot of areas of the frame. However to be able to do it properly you need to know the ins and outs of stress analysis and ideally have an fea plot to work with. Im guessing the lighest full build bikes would be the koxx boxx and the monty kamels for stock, dont know about mods. Dobs can also be built up to very light spec but theyre not particularly strong The people who go big and dont break their bikes are smooth, thats the main thing. For TGS riding a lighter bike doesnt make a huge difference, for comps though a lighter bike will reduce fatigue levels, particularly on longer sections.

Kitchen scales work perfectly for weighing frames Definitely sort that head tube or expect it to tear the headset cups out resulting in horrible broken face syndrome (well at least crack alittle ) Get the corners as rounded and smooth as you can, any jagged steps will just act as a stress raiser and propogate cracks from the corner

Managed to get out on the new grind for a couple of hours tonight, bite and hold are awesome going forwards but when going up onto the edge of things (when the brake is effectively accting backwards) the hold isnt as good and slipped a fair amount. When I ground the rim I was holding the grinder in my right hand and sweeping it anticlockwise with the open face of the disk facing the direction I was sweeping in, I did both sides of the rim in the same way. Could this affect the directional efficieancy of the brake?

IIRC standard did it first with the top tube / seat tube on the sta and S&M did it first with the head tube / down tube on the menstrual cycle God Im feeling old now Its not really possible to do on the BB / down tube with the good old bmx BB shell, these new fangled modern shells you could do though. Its a pretty sensible way of jointing 2 tubes, much stronger than butt welding.

How about this for a start? Arent the old monty stocks short and flicky? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/monty-trials-bike_W0...1QQcmdZViewItem

Try waiting more than 13 minutes for people to reply eh?

Middleburns get my vote here Expensive but oh so worth it, they come up pretty cheap on here, best get yourself validated so you can buy some No option for ffw with burns though so you need a decent freehub (king or hope pro II) or a screw on hub with a freewheel. If youre wanting to run ffw then the new trialtech cranks look pretty good, not heard any reviews yet but judging on the rest of the trialtech stuff they should be on the good side of awesome For stock Im currently using 18/16 with 165 cranks, got a 15t to go on the back for when I get a bit more power back into my legs No Idea on mod gearing but 18/12 is popular?

Mine are the same, gripping with gloves on is much easier with sweaty hands

About how Ive done it apart from I used a 1mm disk Yay I would say its a sharp medium but I dont have much to compare against 2 hours to bed in or 2 hours life?

The aorta is looking more preferable, where abouts do they crack on the dropouts? Waiting to get the weight of the frame from totaltrials before I really make a decision but the geo looks good

Moisturise Grind your callouses back smooth with a pumice stone (or wet and dry will do ) every so often and it should be ok. I find that sweat from my gloves keeps my hands moist, I always wash the sweat off when I finish riding though. How well do your gloves fit? Im using oneil mx gloves (mx gloves are much harder wearing than cycling ones - they dont usually have lycra in between the fingers which is where all gloves go) and theyre a good tight fit, one of the most comfortable gloves Ive used over the last 10 years. If your gloves are too big and loose then they will be rubbing blisters all over.

There was a recent thread about running ffw with freehubs and the general consensus of opinion is that its a stupid idea With ffw you need a fixed cassette on the rear hub, having a freehub and ffw means that both need to engage before drive is taken up; completely negates the point in high engagement freewheels/freehubs

Whats the symptons?

Having built and ridden the hifi I bought from nick wood for the last couple of months Im feeling that perhaps I should be on a slightly shorter frame. My old zoo boa was 1050wb +10bb and the hifi is 1090wb +50bb, Im thinking something mid way between the two would be better (1070-1080wb +30bb) Im 5'7", realistically should I be looking for a shorter frame or not? Phil@selectbikes (totaltrials) has 2 frames (the aorta and the toxsin2) for sale and both seem to have near enough the same geometry, has anyone got experience of either frame? Especially if youre a shortarse too Personally I prefer the look of the aorta but Ive struggled to find out anything about them on the net My riding mostly comprises of street (because theres f**k all natty here:( ) but more trials oriented than streety stuff. Calling on the wisdom of TF to guide me here