forteh

Is yours the 2008 model with the extra hole though? This is the original design which appears to be fine. This is the new design with the uber weight saving hole where the green arrow is pointing, this creates 2 massive stress raisers where the red circles are which is funnily enough where its f**ked itself In my opinion its a shit design

Cheers for that guys, I think the mounts are true enough for the BB7 as it has so much adjustability sideways to align the caliper to the rotor. To the best of my knowledge the brake has had about 4 hours use before me so Im not too concerned yet assuming that the pads arent fully bedded in. From research on here it seems that short sharp stops are best for bedding the pads in, main problem is that because its a rear disk its pretty much impossible to do without locking the wheel and leaving bits of slow reezay maxxis on the concrete The 203 mono trial on the front is awesome, hopefully the bb7 will start to get something like it soon. I do have a 203 disk and adaptor that I can fit if I get the disk adaptor machined down to clear the frame, I would have thought that the smaller disk would still bite just wouldnt hold as well as the bigger.

Fitted a rear BB7 to the deema to see how what DD is like, just got a couple of quick questions. Ive set it up by undoing the post mounts, tightening the dials till the disk is about 2/3rds across the slot and the disk is locked. Then tightened up the post mounts and backed off the inner dial till its just clear and the outer one to suit the bite point I want. When I pull the lever you can see the pads tweaking the disk, its more pronounced on the front of the caliper but Im guessing it shouldnt be doing this The disk itself seems to hold ok as long as Im not on the edge of something (like on pedal ups to an edge) where it just slips though Bite isnt as good as the maggie either but I was sort of expecting that Is the lack of bite/hold most likely down to not being bedded in properly and/or setup? The disk is a 185 avid with a jagwire gear outer and brake inner coupled with a deore lever. Currently I cant fit a 203 disk in the frame as it catches the chainstays, if I machine a few mm off the face of the disk adaptor for my king hub then I might be able to squeeze the 203 in there. Im only 12 stone and dont go particularly big so do I really need the bigger disk?

That would be dengs public product testing then

Braze on mounts will be steel and as you guessed you cant braze steel to aluminium No reason why you cant get a decent frame builder to weld some aluminium mounts on though, I would want to be particular about the treatment after welding as its basically catastrophic brake failure on that huge gap if they break

If its a creaking noise then its worth taking it apart and getting some copperslip underneath the bearing races (expecially if theyre split races that support the sealed bearing), also in the compression wedge collar at the top. Dont put copperslip in the bearings though, that will f**k em up Also a little copperslip on the bolts stem bolts will help. Most of the time creaking is just metal moving against metal, check for cracks though as they can also creak.

Apparantley I look like chris martin from coldplay, more so when hes got curly hair and a beard :$ Chris martin drunk at the electric ballroom in camden Me holding a stolen baby Im not famous though so it doesnt count

Trust him FWIW if you want a 26" bmx then look for a sunn bmix.

I would guess unless its started skipping the spring tension shouldnt be anything to worry about, as long as its keeping tension on the drive rings it should be ok - dont forget that its the force through the freehub shell that engages the ringdrive, not the spring. The crunching noise isnt right, when you cleaned the grease out did you clean it all out? Sounds as though there is some shit in the freehub bearings within the hubshell Ive a feeling its not a sealed bearing, would be worth stripping it again (not like it takes long to do) and check all the bearings are free running and smooth with you finger. When I last serviced mine I blasted it all out with an aerosol cleaner and re-lubed it all with finishline wet and had no problems so far.

Works pretty crap on a 2bolt mount though He wants to stop the canti bosses flexing the frame, only way to do it is use a V-brake booster, possibly in conjunction with a lightweight dedicated 2bolt maggie booster

XTR v-brake booster?

Are they going to be called 'Tryall Sliky' tyres?

wut?

Pity that chromoly is only about 1% Cr

Mine woop

Not the case Im afraid, chromoly is only a low carbon steel with chromium and molybdemun alloying elements (amongst others) it will rust just as much as any other steel, albeit perhaps at a slightly reduced rate. Stainless steel has higher percentages of chromium and nickel which gives it higher corrosion resistance but also slightly lower strength. The current cost of stainless is astronomical compared to mild steel which reflects in the price, I would go for the 300

Ive still got a ging floating about somewhere

As above really Take time to learn to set them up, get a good working rim/pad combination and you will have an awesome brake. They need alittle maintenance and fiddling to keep them on top form though, occasionally you may need to reset them as the pads wear - I dont use the TPA at all as it just makes one pad move earlier (still never worked out why this happens ) so just reset the pads. 4 bolts mounts are stiffer and easier to set up, if you have canti bosses then youre probably better getting a decent V brake. The only times I bleed my magura is if I split a hose or need to split the hosing. If your tyre is soft enough then you can usually squash it with your fingers and squeeze it between the pads, if not just let it down

My 2p... My old zoo boa was light 1.8kg and was one of the old expensive deng frames, built up into a 23lb bike and it rocked - the whole sum of the cnc machining was absolutely nothing It cracked on the chainstay after 2 years of easy riding as I was still learning. My old hifi was 2.2kg - 400g heavier The quality of manufacture between the boa and the hifi is noticeable, the zoo is much neater and better constructed, the echo is sloppy in comparison (the triton is 200% better than either ) Im pleased to say that I have now managed to remove all deng parts from my bike Regarding the monty frames - the older design is in theory both stronger and stiffer than the kamel, triangulation = strength. Sure you might loose some standover height but for a comp bike extreme tuckage ability isnt really a prime concern. As you were

Ive had difficulties getting a syringe from my local chemist in the past Vets should be able to supply them though, another alternative are food basters

Stainless steel is typically no stronger than chromoly, the only advantage is that it wont rust and it will look shinier

A good release agent like plusgas will help, might take a few applications to get it free.

My helicoil kit had the correct size drill in there When tapping make sure the tap starts straight in the hole otherwise the bolt may not tighten up properly, in aluminium wind it in half to a full turn then back it off quarter turn or so until you feel the swarfe break up. Its best to lubricate the tap with some cutting fluid, if you dont have any then some oil will work as youre only cutting soft material - paraffin/kerosene is a good alternative, put it in a tub and occasionally brush some onto the tap as youre cutting. If the tap suddenly goes tight then do not force it, a snapped tap can be a right pigf**k to get out, they cant be drilled by normal means and you will probably need to get it spark eroded which can start to get megabucks Once you have tapped deep enough, blow any swarfe out the hole and use the insertion tool in the kit to put screw the helicoil into the fresh tapped hole. Generally once they are in you cant unscrew them, however if youre lucky you can grab the end with some pliers and pull them out. Screw it in until its just below the surface of the material then break off the tang on the bottom of the insert, jobs a good un Remember to use some copperslip on the thread when you put the bolt in, alot of the screws we use are stainless, as are most thread inserts - stainless/stainless threads can pick up and cold sieze. No screw threads should be put together dry anyways.

What he said ^^^ You will need the wheel built up to be able to do it though, otherwise you will have to figure out some way to stop the hub turning.

I think the hope hoses are the same construction, just need to cut the hose cleanly