forteh

Not sure, my webhost is up Try http://www.fortyone30.eclipse.co.uk/Riding/deema/ Still undecided about the rear disk, might try it with the maggie on for the brum ride.

New street, straight line form lichfield Ive a feeling its down the road from the lower entrance to new street (not the pallisades)?

Engine: Petrol Size: 2.0 Model: Mk3 Golf gti 8 valve. Driving Conditions: City+Motorways Combined MPG: Around town I get about 33-34 mpg, on steady motorways I can get 45mpg if I keep it below 3000 rpm Rated MPG (manufacture) : 38

Should I come? People will laugh at my amusing inability to ride my bike Where exactly is new street gap? Been to brum loads but dunno where it is lol

Pfft, I like the quiet bike for now Now its bedded in its stopped slipping and isnt too bad - that said I dont really ride much big like yourself so its more than likely enough. Still got the maggie and RB lever on standby

Bump - Updated

The ones I got off owen feel lovely Dunno how heavy they are, forgot to weigh them

I prefer the natural colour of titanium personally, its lighter

If you cant take the slack out with chain tensioners then your only option is to change your gearing so the chain is a bit tighter

I think Ive got some of bens trialsworks vids at home on a disk somewhere, will try to dig it out - not sure if zoo4 is on there though, will look tonight

Seen it 1st hand, its not particularly nice - bear in mind I am talking about continual heavy use not the odd joint every couple of days. As said alcohol f**ks you up worse though

Ti-6Al-4V titanium has a yield stress double that of 4130 chromoly, commercially pure (basically unalloyed ti) is about the same yield as 4130. My hope ti BB has a 6al/4v axle, Im not particularly concerned about it as Ive never snapped a steel one I believe that the triton frame is manufactured from russian OT4 titanium which is Ti-4.3Al-1.4Mn, I reckon somewhere between commercially pure titanium and 6Al-4V, the frame is lighter than an aluminium one and as strong, if not stronger than a steel one Sources: http://www.onlinemetals.com/titaniumguide.cfm http://www.onlinemetals.com/alloysteelguide.cfm http://www.grandis.com/rusalloys.html

Water myself, it feels better doesnt rot the seals but it can cause the seals to wear out due to lack of lubrication Also try using the search, there have been millions of threads on this topic

In my experience cancer is the least of your worries, its the cannabis psychosis after 8-10 years that f**ks you up; its not pretty

Just picked up a hope titanium BB 122.5 for 43 quid on fleabay - will let you know how it goes Square taper mind so no good for you

Moby - why does my heart feel so bad? Youtube Video -> ">" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350">

Fair enough, but the forces can only act in the same manner as any other cycling application (pedals going round in circles and the cranks being subject to torsional and bending loads) so theres no reason why a set of cranks cant have been designed from the outset - good example is the RS7s, light and strong enough to be warrantied for life I get where youre coming from though, as trials has progressed over the last 7-8 years the forces have increased as riders are going bigger; espesially with all the street bashing going on Enough mass debating for me too, as you were gentlemen

In the design sense, they do; its 2 holes with a piece of connecting material (ok so Im ignoring the odd twin boom cranks from ages ago). The shape of the material can be altered to remove stress raisers but the basic design is the same. The fact that the tensile cranks apparantly all fail in the same way seems to indicate that there is a design flaw in there - however the cost of re-tooling is probably more than the cost of replacing the small percentage of broken arms. The reason that the riders Joe listed dont break them is because they are good and smooth, be smooth and things will last

How does that affect things? Middleburn RS7s have been around for almost 10 years at least and havent changed A crank is a crank, no other ways to design it

Welcome, guessing youre from Russia or the general area? Ride a triton deema myself, really do like titanium as a frame material If you take the rear wheel out, use a tape measure to find the distance between the dropouts, generally for mods its 116mm and for stocks its 135mm - the hub should sit snugly between the dropouts, the chainstays shouldnt be squeezed when you tighten the wheel. BMX hubs are 116mm, normal mountainbike hubs are 135mm.

Tried to buy a king cog off him, after Id sent the money it hadnt arrived in a week, after a couple of PMs he said he couldnt get it off the freehub (not failed to get one off myself yet). Said he would refund the paypal if he couldnt get it off by the weekend; think it was a another week before I got the refund

Not really Technically the standard one sits above the frame but thats just being pedantic I seem to remember when the internal headsets first came out there was some sort of debate as to why they were crap and would soon become obsolete, not sure whether it was just luddites talking or whether there was a legitimate reasoning behind it; possibly because there was such a limited choice of internal headsets available at the time.

Youre correct, a frame will only accept either an internal or standard headset; they arent interchangeable. There is alot more choice when it comes to standard headsets

Oh yeah, forgot the gas holes in the tubes, cap them off before you go swimming

As long as you wash it off with clean water then it should be fine. Salt water is exceptionally good at rotting aluminium if it isnt removed, basically your bike will start to turn into a white furry mess Obviously relube the chain/cables and any other exposed bits Constant dunking in salt water may eventually kill the bearings in your BB and hubs but I wouldnt expect it to be an instant thing.