forteh

Working on the assumption that the brake doesnt need bleeding Take the wheel and pads out, try holding the non stuck piston into the caliper and gently pull the lever, with any luck the stuck piston will free itself. If it doesnt then you might need to clamp the piston in some how in order to force the stuck one to move. Once you have got it moving then you can try running a bit of brake fluid around the outside of the piston to lubricate the seal and make it move more freely. Push the pistons back into the caliper and wipe up ALL of the oil floating about otherwise you will invariably contaminate you pads Another alternative is to send the caliper off to hope and have them service it, shouldnt cost too much money Regarding the brake sticking half way, is the pivot and barrell on the lever lubricated? If the barss barrell in particular is dry and corroded then it can stick like a bitch and make the lever feel horrible, put a drop of oil in there and see if it improves things.

Once youve got a bike build that youre happy with then it costs very little Ok the initial outlay is a fair amount but then its just consumables like pads and tyres (ooh a whole 50-60 quid a year?) if youre breaking parts then learn to ride smoother or save up for decent parts that dont break The only other reason for buying parts is if you fancy a change, Ive changed the spec on the triton left right and centre and Im nearly happy with it now, spent about 500 quid on it in the last 4 months I reckon

Damn light for an eyletted rim Fairly expensive to save 160g but if they prove strong enough and hold a grind I may well consider one Shit Ive turned into a weight weenie

RB ergo F1 lever, smaller piston and longer lever = power Far more comfortable for me than the maggie lever and never had any problems with the pads being too close to the rim, that said I do like to keep my wheels tight and true.

My cnc reds were crap until I took the brake booster off and now theyre absolutely stonking Ive had to thin them down to 4mm thick to get them to fit but steve@heastsink can supply refils new to a specified size if requested. Im running cnc vee cousts on a smooth front rim (mavic xc717 with standard machined sidewall) and its astonishing, loads of power and hold*, yet still with modulation and not too noisy - just a slight whine when slowing down, no honk honk thank god *and its not even running on the powerful setting on the sd7 lever

Worth sigging?

Not sure on the longevity of a titanium sprocket though, reckon the teeth would last you a couple of months at most

Im at work and dont have msn, hardly use it anyways. Get some antivirus and run a full scan, AVG free should be sufficient for your needs. Once youve run a scan make sure that you have a firewall, you may have a hardware firewall on your router, if you know how to set it up then use it; if not then the windows one should be sufficient.

How the f**k do you think they know your password.

Try removing the trojan from your computer and getting a decent firewall

Section of old tyre, cut the bead and part of the sidewall off and ziptie it to your downtube, wont stop the major dents (tube folders) but it does stop some small dings and scrapes

Im running 165 'burns with 18:16, got 18:15 I can put on aswell.

Nope, putting the vee on the front would just about tip the 10kg mark I think, maybe a bit less Just tried fitting it to the back and it all clears with more space than the magura, still not decided what to do though, need to take a touch more material off the cnc reds to get the maggie to clear properly - either way I still cant ride brum grrr!!!!

Grrrrr, Im busy all day! Got the maggie on the back now and its down to 10.15kg woop Next time

You can get a litre of mineral oil for a couple of quid

I had a couple of sets but I stripped them down and gave the backings to someone, if the pad material is still intact and I can faind it then youre welcome to them

He said that about my chain tensioner aswell the pervert! Not got a photo of the springs but this is the mount edit: new photo added showing the springs (sorry for bad quality phone picture )

My home made tensioner is bolted directly to the frame through the mech hanger bolt (using an M4 countersunk allen screw so it doesnt rub on the freehub), it never moves and stays on the frame when you take the wheel out. No reason why you shouldnt be able to put a 74k one in the same place with a bit of fiddling with washers Looks something like this.... edit1: the actual spring bit isnt a spoke anymore, now got half a hacksaw blade bolted either side of the square aluminium block and a tyre lever taped between the 2 to make a leaf spring. edit2: oh yeah, chris king hub with shimano QR.

CP (commercially pure) titanium is about the same yield strength as 4130 chromoly, the triton frame is made from russian OT4 which is about 4% aluminium, 1.5% manganese. For reference the hope titanium bottom bracket spindle is 6al4v (6% aluminium, 4% vanadium) and has a yeild strengh of 1100Mpa whereas 4130 has a yield strength of 360Mpa. Ive not found a specific yield strength for OT4 but I reckon its about half way between the 2, the fact its as strong as or stronger than chromoly should mean that its not going to fail

I bought a titanium frame, no need to drill holes and stronger than aluminium

Couple of aluminium brackets, an old snapped tyre lever, a hacksaw blade snapped in half and a bit of pvc tape does the trick perfectly No pictures now but will get some later.

Surely a 12 turn double motor will shit all over that? Used to race for several years back in the 90s, still got my last car which is a yokomo ex-factory yz10 super dogfighter, also got a couple of really old school PB mini mustangs in bits in the shed My old schumacher cougar was timed at 35 odd mph at a meeting at castle coombe race track, wasnt quite so quick on the corners with me driving though

^^ What he said makes sense, there are wider based sprockets out there than the 5mm kingcog

Bear in mind that I think the HD option on chris kings generally only comes with the heavy duty axle, not necessarily the stainless driveshell aswell. Im not sure if the singlespeed hub has a stainless driveshell or not. I have an alloy driveshell on my ck with a 16t king kog and it does dig in alittle, just need to use a couple of chainwhips and a spare sprocket to get it off if it has dug in. You can always get the alloy driveshell and if it dies put a stainless one in there

Id go for the chameleon