forteh

Good point, I had forgotten the 'cold' welding materials

Otherwise known as chickening out? I know the feeling, do it most of the time meself :$ I never once hit my rear rotor when I was running DD (mind you that wasnt for all that long) and I think Ive landed on the front rotor once in the last 4 years or so. I guess if youre on mod then the rotor is alittle more likely to hit the wall because its relatively bigger compared to the rim and therefore closer to the tyre/object the tyre just slipped off. I prefer the bike preservation route myself, ok I might not progress very quickly but I like my bike with pristine chainstays

Given the state of the holes and the chance that youre not going to be able to fill them with weld (very hard to weld into a 5mm hole) it might be worth looking into getting some devcon F; its a 2 part aluminiumised epoxy putty that is commonly used in the aerospace industry to repair aluminum flanges and gasket faces. Its as strong as aluminium and can make an effective repair, I used it to build up the generator case on my motorbike where it was weeping oil. I would try to fill the hole with devcon first, then get them redrilled and helicoiled in the correct place. No guaranteeing that it will withstand the forces applied by the brake though.

A note on chainstay lengths, shorter chainstays are easier to lift into a manual but less stable when on the balance point

Pretty much, although I should have 2 on there as Im learning to go up to the right aswell as the left

Cos you love it you slaaag!!

To confuse the issue further.... When my brake is too stiff I get arm pump and tendon cramp in my brake fingers I think its each to his own, try it and see what happens; my brake is certainly alot better for me without a 4bolt booster, adding a lightweight 2 bolt might yet improve the hold - something to try

My history of boosters in a nutshell Zoo boa: flexed like a bitch without a booster so bodged one together from a carbon/graphite v-brake booster which helped although I still kicked the crossover off alot. Got an echo controll 4 bolt booster and it made it the brake so much better and I never split the crossover again. Echo hifi: fitted the booster as a matter of course (as it had made such a difference on the boa) and the brake had no hold and very little bite, even with a fresh grind. Krisboats mentioned that an over stiff brake can cause poor performance and took it off, hey presto the brake is absolutely awesome Triton deema: orignally fitted the booster as it flexed loads (like the boa did) and the brake was crap, took it off and it works spot on. The frame flexes alot but thats one of the properties of titanium. I am going to try a small 2 bolt booster to see how it affects the brake.

I always believed you needed a brake booster until I took it off, and holy shit me brakes working better than it ever did Im not too sure on the mechanics of it but it seems to work if there is alittle flex in there.

If the brake is too stiff the pads cant bite, the brake uses the flex of the frame (in addition to the force through the lever) to really dig the pads in and bite With the 4 bolt booster on the triton the brake is appalling (and heavier ) Will remember bike dock if I want a new dx32, you could have pointed that out to me a couple of weeks ago

I might make an appearance, depends on what Im doing - will have to consult the diary missus :$ BJH, if it rains again Im gonna put you in a bin!!!!!!! edit: Im there

I know several people who can weld ti Apparantly its much the same as stainless steel, the bonus is Im pretty sure it isnt so finicity about HAZ due to the fact it melts at a far higher temperature than steel or aluminium.

Im still debating a small booster, when I put a control 4bolt on there the brake was shockingly bad, no bite or hold. Think Ive still got an old carbon 2 bolt maggie booster floating that Ill test Given the naturally elastic nature of titanium Im not too worried about it cracking, my old zoo boa cracked on the seatstay (probably from no booster) but that was aluminium which fatigues like a bitch when flexed. Even so, I crack the frame its not too much of a hardship getting it re-welded. I did used to agree with you, but as said if you have a lightweight frame its a shame to hang heavy bits off it. Im plenty strong enough already and only built a lightweight bike because I had a light frame and because I could afford to However I havent modified the components at all, no drilling/filling/cutting apart from the rear rim. I had a go on dk's bike in brum the other week and its fecking unrideable for me - feels so heavy, slow and bargelike He had a go on my bike and pfft :kiss: Just for inur, imageshack hosting Had that tyre for years, I picked it up from my old lbs for nowt as it was sitting in their scrap tyre pile I have considered the middleburn ti bash and may get one yet, only problem is the smaller sprockets make for snap happy chains; may still test it to loose another 100g though. The booster is something to test, the brake works perfectly without it so adding a booster might reduce performance. Gotta thank luke rainbird for the DX32, you cant find 32h versions for love nor money Lighter than a tryall and holds a grind better

Its awesome, you just think about doing things and they seem to happen The geo is really nice and stable, its the same as a mk1 coust but with a higher BB and seems to be spot on.

2nd owner from new, thechink got it years ago and rode it for about 4 hours, the frame is spotless* Will bear you in mind about the forks, I really like them, this set came from bigman, theyre nice and light yet stiff enough for me. *apart from a couple of small scrapes on the armour plate under the downtube which I put there :$

...rear maggie is much nicer on stock than disk Ive also turned into a weight weenie :$ Total weight of the bike is 9.102kg, the only modified part is the drilled dx32 and chopped rear minion Current spec is:- Triton Deema frame BT f6 fork Atomz oversize stem 32" Monty PR bars FSA orbit extreme headset Hope ti BB Middleburn RS7/HSB cloud9 bash Wellgo MG1 Ti pedals SD7 arms/lever with coustsinks Maggie slaves/RB lever with cnc reds Mavic xc717 (smooth) laced onto hope xc with sapim DB spokes Drilled DX32 (light grind) laced onto king discotech with sapim DB spokes IRC mythos xc front/minion 2.35 single ply rear Rides so effortlessly Thought I would make a new topic rather than update the old one a third time

Yeah it covers them in tar Which incidentally doesnt work in the wet Just grind your rims

From what your describing you just need to bleed it

FWIW I changed from a +55 to +25 bb and its so much nicer to ride*, it sits on the back wheel just as well but its nicer to gap and go to front on, its also more stable *the fact the bike weighs a smidgen over 9kg compared to 12kg probably helps

Arent they completely different BB heights? IIRC the old pitbulls are no more than +10 bb?

Oh these stupid people with small wheels!!!

Get back ye dog!!

Get a dx32, just got a drilled 32h one off luke rainbird and it weighs 655g with 18mm holes in it, get a 36 hole one off tarty and I reckon it will be down to about 620g? Only in silver but how much for a can of paint

Shorter cranks can be spun faster without buggering up your knees so much, also gives a touch more clearance I use 165 middleburns and find that 18/15 is a touch to high geared where as 18/16 is about right (possibly a bit low for taps mind). Its swings and roundabouts longer cranks need a higher gear ratio to feel the same as short ones - if you find something that works for you then use it

Heatsink mangoes for the yellows and ivories for the whites