forteh

Im all cleared for sunday

Sounds cool, will consult the missus diary and try to get a day pass Im assuming aslong as its not slinging it down you will still be going?

Drive to newport What sort of timing would you be looking at? Can share driving aswell if you want, my insurance covers me. Also, is there small stuff there for me to ride? Never ridden proper natural so it might be a bit of a trial by fire

How are you getting there adam? If youre driving from newport could I blag a lift and sub you some fuel?

For reference the holes in mine are 18mm and its just about nicking the inner vertical wall, the rim is 50 lighter than a tryall and Im betting as strong, added bonus is it holds a grind well A 22mm hole would probably take out the inner vertical completely.

Light grind, works as well in wet or dry

Didnt adam fold his rear rim in a matter of days? Shame really as they looked super trick In reality you could take much bigger holes out of the dx32 and save even more, I reckon you could push then up to 22mm holes; even better you could mill 18x30 rectangles/obrounds in there

Aha! I didnt say it WILL fail, it will be more prone to failure Basically stretching the spring is taking the material past its yield point and producing plastic deformation, after which further loading will work harden the material until it reaches its ultimate tensile strength, at which point it suddenly goes weak and snaps To be honest its probably not going to snap unless you keep stretching it all the time, but if it aint broke dont fix it till it is

If you can cope with a narrower rear rim then a dx32 with 18mm holes weighs 654g

You can clean out the old grease with a thorough spray of gt85 and relube it with finishline wet lube, the hub should be a bit louder but still nothing on a proII. Take the axle out, pull the drive shell out and clean all the helical splines with a toothbrush and gt85. Because I havent got the king tool I just sprayed a load into the driveshell to clean the crap out, seemed to work ok. Relube the spline with finishline wet and pop it back in, make sure the ringdrive system works as you would expect it. Put the axle back in and jobs a good un If youre really desperate for a noisy hub then you can stretch the sping, probably not advisable though as it will be more prone to failure. Failing that get a piece of plastic and peg it to the chainstays so it pings your spokes

Now Im 29 and had a couple of serious accidents (albeit on the bmx not the trials bike) Im not bothered to try to push myself to hard and my natural instinct will often tell me not to try something. I prefer to do something smooth and dialled rather massive and sketchy. For the 9 years Ive been riding Im pretty crap really

If youre struggling for somewhere to mount the tensioner then you could try utilising the bolt that holds the mech hanger on. I used an M4 countersunk allen screw and a nylock nut on the outside, the aluminium bracket is 2-3mm thick and has just enough clearance so that it doesnt scuff the lockring. If you use a thin section stainless bracket (as opposed aluminium) then you would have more clearance on the lockring, you cant guarantee how much room there is going to be between hubs though, I believe a proII is much closer than the king Im now using a couple of half hacksaw blades in a leaf spring arrangement and the chaintension is perfect, no slap and it cant come off

Ive run a deore mech as a tensioner before and had no problems with it, my hacksawblade tensioner is better though

Beating you Those are phenominally light forks, how long you reckon they will last? I dont see why you shouldnt beat 8.8kg, a liberal application of ti bolts will get mine down below 8.8 but Ive stopped spending money on it for now Good luck, looks lovely.

So light you can ride it with 2nd degree burns to the hands

Just been weighed with the new trialtech bars and stem on and with the welterweight rear tube. Now down to 8884g And Im done for the moment

Cant you?

Got proof then? The only reason a king will skip is if the bearings dont have enough preload on them or they have been run without the preload adjusted whilst bedding in. Try taking one of the driveshell bearings out of a proII (or any freehub for that matter) and see how long it lasts. As for the original question, pick up a proII from here and get a cheap rim; dx32 is bombproof and cheap, also very light once drilled AFAIK the trialtech rear rim is the same as a tryall/atomz/viz.

I once had a siamese foot growing out the side of my hand too, its quite tricky to ride at first but you soon learn to live with it On a serious note dont be tempted to get out on the bike too early, waiting another week for it to heal will stop it splitting and having to wait an additional month

The tensioner weighs about 30-40g and the king hub is only about 280g; beats the 800 quid it would cost to go to modstock I was using a normal tube in the back but I pinched it on a pigeon, got a maxxis welterweight now which should be alittle more hardy

Dont think a 116 hub is 100g lighter than 135 Mind you Ive saved 100g off the front hub and due to save another 200g at least off the handlebars/stem so its sub 9kg now Only problem is I pinched the rear tube (inevitable really) so theres a big heavy Dh tube in there right now

IIRC Dot5 is silicone based and much more susceptible to water absorption, it has a much higher boiling point though so is used more on the race track

Im running a 122 square taper BB on my RS7s with heatsink bash and its perfect length, not sure how the length compares with isis but I bet its not too far out

My 1st car was a 1.3 mk2 polo breadwagon, it was awesome, really reliable with minimal servicing Fits a couple of bikes in the back too

To be fair, for 18 months of which the bike was largely stuck in a cupboard with a cracked frame, I also dont kick all that hard - hence the reason I cant gap more than 7 foot I have picked up a replacement chain for it but not been arsed to fit yet