forteh

Did you tighten the rotor screws evenly and a little at a time? If you tighten one up completely and then the next you will more likely distort the rotor, try slackening the screws and retightening them in turn. A warped rotor will make the brake feel slightly more spongey but shouldnt otherwise affect performance, if it was warped from new from tarty I would have returned it for a replacement.

I still have a bruised calcaneum (heel bone) so cant ride

I think about all of the dobs have probably cracked now Magnesium is not the material of choice for a structural member

The bleeding media is neither here nor there if his technique is wrong, although a bath bleed is likely to be more sucessfull than his current syringe bleeds

Which end are you sticking your syringe? As youre bleeding the brake, tap the cylinders and hoses to help release trapped air bubbles. If the new (old) maggie slave has been sitting for a while then the seals will be dry and need freeing up and lubricating. To be honest if youre struggling this much with bleeding a magura will you be much better with a hydraulic disk? BB7 or vee for you I think

Good old photoshop

Im going to learn to ride in the wet this winter, now Ive got a grind on the front theres no reason not to

A high engagement hub/freewheel will make your pedal hops alot tidier, especially with a king hub - touch the pedals and you have instant drive to the rear wheel Also make sure your chain is tight/tensioned, taking up any slack in it will give the effect of less engagement.

The 'correct way' is to hop up to the opposite side to your strong foot, so a left foot forward rider would hop to the right and vice versa. Ive always sidehopped to the left (Im left foot forward) because I would use the rear (right) foot to flick the back of the bike over as I do on the bmx. Im learning to go the correct way aswell now, still got no height (about 32") but Im getting better

You should be able to regulate your hopping direction and speed at will, assuming you balance is good enough you should be able to stop hopping and stand on the back wheel. Bike geo and setup can make a big difference to this. Excuse me if Im telling my grandmother to suck eggs When trying to teach new riders to backhop (over the last few years) the biggest mistake they make is to have their arms too straight and their weight too far back over the rear axle. Try to get the bike as vertical as you can and keep you elbows bent to keep the weight above the rear wheel, this will make hopping easier. With a bit more practise you will get the hang of booning - hopping forwards without pedalling, its a very useful skill to have

I side hop the wrong way (left foot forward and up to left) but I can go the other (correct) way too, just not as high. Sidehopping wrong foot forwards can cause issues when you start getting high enough to need to tuck as you cant fold your legs as easily.

Another vote for reds on a light grind

When I snapped the hanger on my old zoo boa I tried to run without it (running perfect tension singlespeed so no tensioner) and found the rear wheel wouldnt tighten up because the QR axle end protruded past the aluminium and the QR cap tightened down on the axle not the dropout. Running a 74k type tensioner on my bike and have since chopped the mech hanger

Use the hacksaw blades as a leaf spring, when you bolt them onto the bracket put a couple of mm of washers between the blades and the same amount where it bolts to the slider block. This will increase the tension massively and you wont need to apply any bend to the spring to get it to hold your chain dead tight

Im the 3rd owner from new, not sure if the seals were replaced but I dont think they were; I did grease them before I bled it with water though. Its hardly an effort to get a new seal though is it?

Maybe Im jinxing myself but my original RB lever is 4-5 years old now and never leaked Still super comfy and powerful

CNC cousts bite much much better with a grind, they still work well on smooth but the grind just makes them unreal

What grind have you got on the cousts? Im running cnc vee coustsinks on the front with the lightest possible grind and its very, very good - bite, noise and hold are incredible. On the same rim but smooth it would squeal a little but not honk or have the same bite. Bigman ground the rim, we took the tyre off and put the wheel back in the forks with the bike upside down. Spun the wheel quickly and touched the grinder on at a really shallow angle for perhaps 2 seconds and that was it - perfect front brake; bite, hold and still some modulation

Did you break the tang out of the bottom of the helioil? If you did it sounds like you didnt tap far enough into the hole before putting the insert it. You could try cutting the bolt down so it will tighten up on the brake clamps, will run the risk of pulling out again but it should work as long as you have enough threads in the insert

Im currently using a shimano M-system front cable, when I had the BB7 on the back I used the gear cable (jagwire specifically) the theory being that gear cables dont compress lengthwise so will give less sponge - handy tip from aliC

I know, its work though, besides which its quicker to draw it in autocad than model it in solidworks

Good point, Ive never used FFW or fixed sprockets, only cassettes and lockrings so not fully conversant I would vice the 2 loose ends of the chain though, if you clamp the sprocket in the vice tight enough to stop it slipping then youre likely to be deforming the thread and making your job harder See my attached quick autocad sketch of what I would do

IMHO I dont think youre going to be getting it off without the rim and spokes, certainly not without causing pretty major hub flange damage from having to grip it in a vice I did exactly the same on my king hub and the lockring was too tight to get off, easy solution was to just pop the axle and driveshell out of the hub, of course you cant actually do this If I was in your position I would relace the wheel with enough spokes to allow you to turn the sprocket off, I reckon 8 either side should be enough

Muahahahahahaha Now go find some scales edit: the sprocket will be r/h thread so if the wheel is in the vice with the sprocket on the underside then you need to turn the wheel anticlock when looking from above (think of unscrewing a bolt from a hole ). If you have a chainwhip then you need to undo the sprocket anticlock with the sprocket facing you.

Assuming this is a screw on fixed hub...... Get a chainwhip and just undo it If you dont have a chain whip then a length of old chain and a vice will work just aswell; wrap the chain around the sprocket and put the 2 loose ends in the vice jaws, use the wheel to turn the sprocket off - remember to turn it the right way