forteh

I used a jagwire oversized gear cable outer with jagwire brake inner on my rear bb7 - worked really smoothly without any problems The brake itself was pretty crap though, wouldnt hold at all so went back to maggie; this was a 185 disk on stock though so mod should be another story.

A cheap downtube protector can be manufactured from a section of old tyre with the wire bead cut out and some thin aluminium sheet (1-2mm thick should be sufficient). Position the length of tyre on the underside of the downtube, overwrap it with the aluminium and clamp it all up solid with jubilee clips. Should stop the majority of dents but not weigh excessive amounts - when the aluminium gets ragged just replace it and jobs a good un

Chimaira - Everything you love and then Antiflag - The press corpse

My forks flex under braking, probably up to an inch - nothing major to worry about. I think some of the flex on mine is from the frame though as its titanium and natually flexy It was worse with a disk brake, putting the vee on the front has reduced it alittle. Where abouts in staffordshire are you?

I never get bored, have no time in my life to be bored these days

That sucks dog cock Ill stick with buying trials bits from tarty.

Awesome You not running your upwards tensioner any more?

Not sure to be honest, the front is a mavic xc717 so its already lighter than any front trials rim and the rear dx32 is almost as light as the lightest of aluminium rims without excessive drilling/filing. Old tyres are much lighter but unfortunately offer bugger all grip on anything resembling a moist rock BJH, youre just jealous (and gay! )

I have a rubber queen, bigmans old one incidentally I also had a single ply minion on the rear, awesomely light at 750g and pretty robust but I pinched it at lee quarry so got the conti and run it with a normal tube, its got a load more bounce and its a bit more stable than the maxxis.

Lighter bikes help more with endurance, got enough muscle as it is Thank you muchly If I could lose 75g on the bolts it would be justifiable, as it is everything on the bike is about as light as I can get it (whilst still retaining the big rear tyre and not resorting to drilling). The last things to do are cut my carbon brake booster (save another 40g to take it to 9.05kg) and look at these bolts edit: Smashing Good point about the top cap, it would be even lighter to take the star nut out and carry my hope head doctor around in my bag The echo bolts are a no-go unfortunately as Im running a ti square taper BB, I was looking at some middleburn ti crank bolts but for 18 quid to save 10g it wasnt realistic.

I know that much, just wondering if someone was anal enough to weigh a set of ti bolts and compare them to steel - saves me the hassle of stripping the bike to find out Might be enough to tip it below the 9kg mark

Right then, can anyone give an indication of how much weight a set of titanium fasteners will save? Trying not to justify buying some but if the saving is significant then I may :$ Basically Im looking at 6x M5 stem bolts, 1x M4 lever screw, 9x M6 sprocket screws and 4x M5 brake screws. Beers in advance PS: Sorry for the weight weenie question

Left Hand Drive

LHD bmx usually uses a cassette hub not freewheel

You could blame sausage fingers I suppose

My maggie has been water bled for the last 6 years, still on the same lever and slaves Its frozen once in all that time, mainly because I was riding at 11pm in winter - getting too old to do that now so its not really an issue. The corrosion also isnt an issue as there is this magical thing called oxygen that needs to be present to cause steel to rust, funnily enough there is bugger all oxygen in a hydraulic brake (ok discounting the minute amounts of oxygen in solution). Besides which, all of the steel fittings are open to atmosphere anyways and when was the last time you say a maggie with rusty fittings? The only problem Ive found with a water bleed is that the slave cylinder seals dry out a touch (as you mentioned), this is easily solved by dropping a spot of oil onto the pistons every couple of months.

Ahem

Of course I was talking about the 26" levelboss not the 20", rear disk on mods is generally ok but as grant said as soon as the rear wheel moves and the disk goes out of alignment it will stop working so well.

If youre going to use tar, dont use as much, only need a thin smear to work properly - a grind is a far better solution I tried a rear disk on my triton and was dissapointed, using a 185 rotor and a bb7 it had very little hold, bite wasnt as good as a maggie either. Learn to set up the maggie, get some decent pads and a grind and all your braking problems will be over

Slightly off topic here sorry :$ My front vee is astounding - bite, hold and modulation. Feather the brake for as much modulation as a disk and squeeze it alittle harder for solid lock SD7 arms and lever on reverse mount pace forks, pads are coustsinks running on the lightest grind possible. Only down side is it squeals a bit, but other than that its every bit as good as the 203mm mono trial I had, bonus is its 250g lighter

Upper body weight, throw it upwards and tuck the back wheel underneath you, I can only do about 30"

Its a triton? Wish my triton would let me pidgeon like that

Assuming it is the ntldr missing then in my experience its windows not knowing where to find the OS, usually caused by the boot sequence changing - particularly if you have multiple hard disks installed. Reset the boot sequence and it should be fine, if not its possible the disk has been corrupted and it needs recovering - not sure exactly as I usually just format and reinstall windows from fresh

King discotech hub with alloy driveshell and stock axle / DX32 with 18mm holes / sapim race spokes / PVC rim tape / continental rubber queen / normal cheap tube / titanium bolt through skewer = nice light rear wheel The 2.5 maxxis tyres are obsenely heavy, my 2.5 slow reazy with about half the knobbles chopped and about 15% left on the remaining tread was still over 1300g. I lost 650g off my rear wheel in one fell swoop and transformed the way the bike rides Ive never used a fixed hub/FFW as I have a king - I believe its slightly lighter if you have tryall H hubs but the main weight is more centred on the bike around the BB.

Different materials have a different stress/strain curve depending on what characteristics they display under load; what can apply to one material may not apply to another. Just peeves me a bit when manufacturers state that their material is stronger than anyone elses without giving enough info to back up that claim. The xtp2 is known to crack and whether thats generally a design or material failure I dont know. Indeed, I will say no more about k-alone, sorry for the off topic banter