forteh

Stollen is lovely

Impressive, should be BOTI though

18:12 is a 1.5:1 gear ratio. The smallest 5 bolt sprocket for the middleburn pro trials bash is 20t, a 14t rear sprocket will give you 1.42:1 ratio. The normal middleburn chainring is 22t, in which case a 15t sprocket will give you 1.46:1 ratio. Both of which are slightly lighter than 18:12 gearing

Thats awesome

Oh good, spambots - Reoprted

Because its forward facing it has to be on the right hand leg to allow IS calipers to fit Personally I love the frame and had a good look at tims on the Beau brum ride back in the summer.

I changed my extended monty pr bars for trialtechs and the reduction in width from 30.75" to 29.1" hasnt been noticeable, I think the sweep, rise and position of them is more relevant. Obviously if youre still growing or have narrow shoulders then superwide bars will tend to hinder more.

Look for the for sale thread by Dan S, he makes them

Avoid the 'dry' lubes that change to a wax or grease, they will stick it all up and it will skip I would recommend the finishline wet as its very good stuff (Ive also used the dry on chains and its also very good but not for stuff like hubs & freewheels) but any light cycle oil such as 3 in 1 will work.

Dont know from experience myself but I would strip, degrease and clean all parts and reassembly with some light oil - I would use something like finishline wet which I use in my king hub. Basically oil all the moving parts, springs, pawls and bearings

Likewise

Have you greased the bolt threads? Increases the possible tightening torque massively

Very sensible, I was delacing a wheel once and a spoke snapped and took a chunk out of my cheek, right on the edge of the eye socket Get the rim tape on there Also once the spokes are all fitted a tiny drip of light oil onto the end of the spoke (so it runs down into the threads) helps immensely with achieving and keeping high tension, also means the nipple will turn when you need to true the wheel.

The spoke spacing between 3x and 4x lacing is the same, just the 4x spokes are longer and cross over 4 other spokes (hence the name). Follow the guide but only cross the spokes 3x, remember to thread the spoke over/under the last crossed spoke, this gives the tension in the wheel

Technically you cant because the inserts are 5mm AF You could tap it M6 but then you would never get your axle apart

Typically mods are easier to throw around by younger people due to the smaller size, alot of people progress to stock at a later time. Welcome to the forums

You slaaag!!!! Im gonna drill 40mm holes in mine!!!!!

I tried a bb7 on the rear and it was shocking, reasonable bite but zero hold. It was bedded in properly but was only a 185 disk (couldnt fit a 203 in the frame) but no matter what I did it wouldnt hold. Went back to magura, its lighter and works better on the rear. Im sure that someone may have used a bb7 successfully on the rear of a stock, but for me it didnt work.

Your rim was 654g with 18mm holes, Im going to open them out to 22 to save a touch more* *only cos grants wheel is 20g lighter than mine

Can hardly call it off roading but did 5 miles of welsh greenlaning on this

The 9.5mm would seem a reasonable assumption, they do look like M6 bolts (the size that you can tap a normal QR hub). Still got doubts as to how the axle is supported, would not want to see all of the load going through an M6 screw in shear

I dont know of anyway to do it quickly, could you print off the pdf and scan it with some ocr software? In my experience of ocr it isnt 100% all the time, thats going back a few years though.

Thats rounded acad dimensions, its 9.47mm actually +0.5 head angle gives +6.19 bb height -0.5 head angle gives -6.19 bb height Could well be the axle holes are at 10mm and the head angles are more appoximate - of course running a bigger rear tyre than the front will alter the geometry, as will different pressure etc etc etc.

2 minutes with autocad, not 100% accurate but close enough edit: thats rotating 1/2 degree either way about the front wheel spindle.

I got some ti bolt thoughs from the states, couldnt find any controltech ones in the UK and found a set on ebay for 25 USD; equated to 25quid including the shipping, which is damn cheap for a titanium bolt through. Theyve since upped the price www.racebolts.com Also a bit worrying about that dropout design, the whole load from the back wheel seems to be transmitted from the frame through to the axle via a single M6 allen screw - thats a substantial reduction in material section over even a standard QR Tensioner is a neat solution, been doing it on my bikes for ages now