Ash-Kennard

negative uplift is downforce. it also depends how you set it up i guess, ive z is vertcally positive then a positive lift number will be uplift not downforce. The investigation into Pickup truck aerodynamics has yielded varied results showing that many of the adaptations have minimal impact on the coefficient of drag but can have massively detrimental impacts on lift and pitching coefficients. However some of the modifications (Covered Curved Taper) can have very positive effects upon the drag. Significant improvements have been made where models have maintained the flow and separation has been controlled to produce a “clean” and properly formed wake. straight out of the conclusion, if you want pics ill do them later cba right now

entered. wonder who my partner will be...

just putting this out there, the newest team boardman looks shit hot, not ridden on yet, but last years one was pretty damn nice too! if not I would go second hand seen a few santa cruz's and pretty tasty all mountain bikes dotted about lots within your budget too

I did a coursework like this last year, but we were looking at whether tailgate down or up was more efficient on a pick up truck. Used StarCCM+ for it, so not sure if this applies entirely but make sure you look at your y+ values as boundary layers will be important here as the flow will by high after the stagnation point. and reflect your mesh so you can get a properly even flow pattern. Also the question was too small to read but are you sure he didn't mean the truck having 20 degrees of yaw? you may also benefit from setting the wind tunnel length to 3 bodies ahead and 5 bodies behind and maybe increasing the cross section of the tunnel. will require more cpu power, but that just means you can make a mesh independence study and really impress, i would go quite coarse on the mesh too, will be very intensive on cpu times otherwise

It is quite stiff, but I have always used lighter gear ratios than most people. its weird jumping on the 24" street bike and having an easier ratio. need to sort that out! No pro 2. cant understand why people are using front free wheels and complaining every 3 months that its died, but my last pro 2 saw 7 years! so much better. As for chain stay length, on my limey the wheel is right at the end of the dropout, which I am happy with as the longer chainstays help with gaps, but more importantly, the dropout is well supported and less likely to break as there is a bolt increasing stiffness after a dodgy sidehop. Cheers, Ash

Ive been running 16:13 on my limey 4 for the past few months and ive been really getting on with it, I say go for it.

Actually a really really good watch. Good Stuff!

spokes need even tension throughout the wheel for a good wheel build, this will ensure a straight rim and even stress distribution. as said, looks like they were tightened too much causing the heads to shear. at this stage you have no idea what kind of fatigue has been seen by the remaining spokes, you may get away with dropping new ones in there, but a fresh 3x wheel build should be on the cards. disc brakes cause significant stress to spokes, but it is an odd one, had the rim been used previously? been flat spotted? and then attempted to rectify the flat spot with spoke tension?

do a TRA get a hench jubilee clip on there and go bashing

DISTURBED THE SICKNESS - SICK ALBUM

apparently its less now. lol penis stats.

weight, cooling, warpage, aluminium centres and steel braking surfaces

think they are for reflectors/u-brakes/mud guard holes, but yeah stick disc!

Drilldo?

you want to wide and knobbly on snow. Fat bikes were designed specifically for this! look at things like 2.5/2.7" swampthings

not sure on that one buddy. have you got a frame compatible with this set up? usually chainline can be adjusted to an extent by varying the BB length, not so sure in this case. I am assuming here, but it looks like their premium frames seem to be spaced to 116mm so i imagine they have made this crankset to match their flagship bikes. although it can probably be used on a 135 setup, but dont take these words as fact, pure speculation.

if it made any sense i would think about it with my mind...

but, some people have massive problems with clipping their ankles on the crossovers, causing them to split. not fun mid ride. braided crossovers should be considered a viable and sensible upgrade if this is a persistent problem. EDIT: although a larger booster could well help too.

look f**king stupid, but i do understand the practicality. wonder when we will have to wear one at all times lol. nanny state...

problems with leaky brakes maybe mate? maybe i just got lucky with mine. you talking trials brakes or like m4's? either way they certainly know how to make a hub and many of the same principles still apply to freewheels.

if you want a good one HERE is an excellent one i recommend. will fit most chains, but may need modding for really fat ones. had it for a while now, bought my dad one too. such a lovely piece of kit im surprised everyone hasn't switched to ratchet

this is what i meant either way, I tried brakeless for a while, you do get used to not having the brakes, but i will always be a fan of brakes. and do not intend to try it again. but it is definitely a good idea to give it a try. never know you may love it

you all forgot rowan!

16gb of RAM hurray. but nah, the rest is coming, just have to order it