bluecatracingcat

Eejit! ^^^^^ Had a customer who had used Locktight 680 (liquid metal) to stop his bb creaking. :P No noise but when it came to removing it we had to put the bb tool in the vice and get 3 people to push the frame around. Got it out but it did take a little thread out with it. Fine after a re-tap. (Y)

I've got a 1lt bottle of LHM Plus, very high viscocity (sp) so lever returns fine. You're in liverpool right? You can have some if you want to try it. Leon I've got spare maggie systems/parts I can sell too. LHM... Liquid Hydraulic Mineral

I just saw 3 black cats chasing a ginger cat. I didn't think they would gang up on each other like that. (Y) I know dogs hunt in packs but cats?

Friend of mine took the tip of his finger off with a hope 205 rotor while cleaning his bike. much much blood.

Many thanks. Um you can close this topic I you want. Thanks Leon.

If I try to remove the avitar, thats fine but if I browse for another one it just puts the first one back on. What am I doing wrong? Sorry if this is explaned somewhere else, I couldn't find it.

Yeah they are but it's not going to pull your cable back or even be noticable.

Sounds like they aren't even qualified to sell bikes. As you've done in the past it isn't hard with a vice. I've used home made wooden block when I didn't have proper ones. AS for the vice... you need leverage... go to you're least fav door and open it, then hold the hose/block thingies in the hinge side passing the hose through from other side. Then bash with big rock or a hammer. Haven't tried this but I will next week when I have to make up hoses for my girlfriend bike. I'll see if I can do it! :turned:

Can't weld it to the shell as the sheel is alloy and the free hub steel. Take the axle out. Using a 10mm hex in the vice to remove freehub (normal thread so if the hex key is in vice pointing up and the wheel is drive side down.... turn it... umm... anti clockwise) Pull rubber seal off back of freewheel, clean away grease with nasty chemicals and a wire brush on bench grinder. Then weld a nice tidy seam around this groove, then grind it back flush so it bolts on again. Or if you just wanna do a quick not so reliable lock up. Leave the freehub on hub, with axle out get a hammer and punch and tap the bearing race clockwise, the correct shimano tool for this is hard to find. Once the bearing race and shims are off you can see the bearings and pawls. just got to bthink of a nice way of jamming them, try knocking a bunch of the bearings into the pawl gaps and put it back together without the shims (lefthand thread.) Don't know how solid that would be? :turned:

68 is more common but threre's by no means a standard rule. Anynoe got a standard frame out there?

I've got one here Bright yellow front race line made march 1995, that makes it um... 10 years old today. I can get 4 fingers on the lever blade. looks like the bigger piston too. I'll sell it if you wanna go retro. It's never been used, I found it in a box that had had the rear robbed.

I had one of those annoying customers a few years back who wanted to colour match his bits different shades of grey, so he ordered xtr grey cable outers along with loads of other powder coated and anodised bits... but he was a complete knob head and would ring twice a day to see if his stuff had arrived. So I put just 1 pink brake outer on the front. Looked great with all the other grey parts! (N) He wasn't able to change the cable himself so was forced to ride a race on the weekend before we changed it on monday.

This man makes no sence but Hitifaster does.