Tom Booth

Jesus I'd forgotten about that, no matter what You did the bloody thing reacted Is that still on dude?

Nah no worries man. If rather help people before the job then try and remedy it after haha. Yeah if 100% just stick with solid colour for.your application. If your used to painting 1k poly, other then adding hardner into the mix there's nothing more too it. Just get a tech sheet on your paint when you buy and you'll be good to go. Best advise too is just practise and learn how far you can push the material before sagging or runs, just get a scrap wing and have a play and figure your gun settings etc before you get onto the car. I painted these for Jenny's dad the other day, a pair of new wings for his 2CV. I don't paint much car stuff but always enjoy it when I do..

Nah basecoat is still available in solvent or water, but they are pushing harder for water based to be the standard. It isn't practical at all though so they're having a hard time. 2k solid colours are readily available, usually sold as commercial or plant paint but yeah still there.

Yeah 1k/poly generally doesn't mop, it'll soften up then tear if you get it too warm. Usually just keep ontop of it by hand and compound. Generally warmth isn't too much of an issue, in my first unit I used to paint in winter around 3/4*c with the fans on and never really had too many issues. Aslong as the chill is out the air you shouldn't have too many issues if your planning on winter time, your biggest problems would come from using 1k products in those conditions, 1k is really suseptable to something called blooming, where it picks up the moisture in the air, the finish then goes a milky matt version of what you originally painted, 2k isn't at all really unless ypur painting in really bad conditions, low temps, damp atmosphere and no air movement, even then I think you'd be unlucky. Slower drying time usually yields better gloss levels. Alot of people in the trade want to do 3/4 cars a day, so whack drying accelerators in to force dry the products so it's out the booth and the next one in, then they wonder why it's flat as hell in a months time.. Sorry, the wet edge to come back on.. The place you want to start is somewhere small and unnoticeable when the cars reassembled, so door shuts or slam panel etc, getting round a car with a good coating usually takes a good 15mins including your second mix of colour or maybe more. Obviously all the time your first area of paint is drying, the second it leaves the gun the air dry reaction has started. You want to be able to come back to your first area/edge and the paint still be wet enough to absorb your overlaying 1st coat, not the end of the world if it isn't as you can flat and mop this later, but just makes lighter work of the job if it is. So to combat this different speed activators/hardners are available for the job your doing. Panel painting and you'll get away with using an express activator or fast, for bigger jobs where you will need the window open to come back on your first pass, slow and medium hardners are there. When you come to do the work be mindful of the atmosphere at the time your thinking of painting, if it's cooling off in the evenings use something like a medium activator apposed to slow, if it's later in the year and it's generally cooler all the time you may get away with a fast activator, just depends how quick you are at painting. Personally I'd just pick up a 3L or 5L 2k primer filler kit in grey, white on white is a dick to try and check for coverage, white generally is under reds, yellows and oranges. That one kit will do all you need really. Treat it as a filler primer on your repairs so if you have a gun with a big enough nozzle, use it neat to get a good build on there. Once your repairs are dressed and ready and you feel happy just shoot any other primer areas with 10-15% thinner in your high build and it'll just act as a good primer for you to lay your top coat onto. You mention colour coat then lacquer.. Personally I'd just shoot the car in 2k solid, mix your colour with activator, shoot 2 coats and job done. Whites in basecoat and lacquer are hard work, they show up any dirt in your basecoat, any that's been picked up in your lacquer and generally just make hard work of it. 2k solid colour is just easier for pale colours, any dust nibs are coloured over and can be flatted out alot easier. Plus no lacquer to worry about so keeps the job cheaper. Link to the mask doesn't work for me but I recognise the part number. Yeah anything devilbiss is usually a good shout. I use a battery powered 3M versaflow up at work and it's fantastic, best thing I've ever bought but it works all day everyday so it's justified I guess. The devilbiss finishline range is good stuff for home use, nice and cheap as they're abit no frills, but still passed all H&S testing, plus full parts support is always nice to have.

PAINT TEAM... ASSEMBLE! Ok, your first decision as you just said is single pack or 2k. Personally I wouldn't use single pack on my shed door, the effort and time you'll put in flatting and getting your panels right will just be wasted in 6 months time with a totally flat dull finish. If you keep ontop of single pack with the polish then it'll stay bright, but it's alot of work when using a better product in the first place is a simpler answer. Your other option I guess is 1k poly/synthetic. Designed as a crude agricultural product, it'll do the job and is abit stronger then cellulose, but comes with it's inherent problems like super slow drying, you can't machine polish it as it'll wake up and soften again. With 2K, the only real addition is your hardner, so the mixture is pretty straight forward. Don't use too faster hardner, in this weather your really gonna want to be using a slow/medium hardner, in winter you could probably get away with a fast. You want a wet edge to coke back to on your coats, so as you come back around your not painting and trying to get the wet fresh back into already drying paint. Make sure you get a medium solid 2K, there is variations on 2k and it is the solid content of the materials. Most products over the counter will be medium solids, as the paint shop don't want the grief when your homebrew paint job doesn't dry properly. 100% don't use the propane heater. The moisture they add to the air isn't worth the reward. Just a cheapelectric heater is the winner. In terms of cost your probably not far off similar money for single/2K, find a pretty sensible paint shop and you'll be around £23/£25 per litre for either, but then your activator will bump the price up a little bit. Personally, I'd get a gallon price, your more then likely gonna be 3l or so for your Porsche, looking £75ish, more often then not 5L will be £80ish so your always covered for future work. What state is the car in Paul? Any primer work to be done? If your geared up for 2K top coat, use 2k primer too. The results are far better and will last far better when worked right. Yes, 100% buy an air fed mask, full face too, the half face respirator style aren't worth the plastic they're made of. Get on eBay and buy a second hand devilbiss item, buy a filter kit for it and get rocking. I bought one to paint my buddy's car in his garage as I knew my mask wouldn't keep up and with the work and got my money back on it once the job was done. If you get them at the right momey though they are a worth while thing to have in the garage.

Sick weekend, took a mate to buy an AE86, it was his 30th birthday party yesterday night so spent it drunk. Today I finished up some jobs on the Fairlane, cracked off some wedding jobs then it's off a run in the ford!

Good work Sam, keep at it bud!

I really enjoy the modern marvel stuff, super easy watching, nice actors, interesting stories and just a good film. But Godzilla was remade what, 6 years ago? It's probably more but it hardly needs a resurgence now..

Why do they just keep remaking shit? It's getting super boring now.

Effort points rewarded

Y'all Nazis up in here

Your not trying hard enough

Genuinely abit worried about typing that..

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I'd love it if that was the end of TF, Danny or Tom just thought f**k it, why are we keeping this going and that was the end of it all.

Bunch of ■'s

The Fairlane was still getting abit warm on runs, so swapped the water pump and all hoses anyway.. Found the reason for the warm running.. Impeller had come from the drive shaft so was just doing nothing, then I guess when the impeller came off it shat 2 of the blades that were cloging up the water way. It's a miracle it lasted so well!

Bear with.. I'll find the pictures..

Mike, yes, but trying to hash out the deal really. I'm not getting hold of it till October time though. The guys in no rush and I want my fairlane for my wedding. The caravan was with it when it came into the country, got split in the deal as it was too much. Caravan was on air too Just discovered it has a rebuilt Ford 390 in there with some silly cam, edelbrock inlet and holley carb and some awesome headers. The fairlane is only a 289 (4.7l) and that goes like a rocket, this things a 6.4l with goodies so should track along nicely!

Hard boner ensues...

I don't know why your using it to be honest, when this 3m chrome DiNoc is just as good and has similar strength properties.. It's also self adhesive!

Is the 304 self adhesive?

Boooooo. A buddy of mine used to own a boosted b18 DC2 and it was violent for want of a better word. It had something like a gt25 on so spool was quite late in the range, vtec liked slightly after and it was nuts. Made such a beautiful noise though.

They tried, it couldn't keep up..

I always think that when they get the Galaxies out too, they're huge haha.