Tom Booth

Yeah it is a weird setup. The only reason I have concern is after tulipgate. If this thing goes missing it could knacker up my show in 3 weeks..

Movement! Shame it appears to be in Germany..

I had that earlier in the year, I received a box of 800 tulip bulbs, and a gardening centre received my jukebox parts. f**king douchebags. The company I purchased from have emailed to say 'Hey, next time maybe tick the UPS option as it's cheaper and more reliable' Cheers, what are we doing now though?

Post.nl, it's tracked and the history shows it going to the sorting in Holland, then it's not moved for 2 weeks. It's super annoying as last time I had a problem with a shipment it was post.nl, they were literally the worst.

Had a super expensive parcel go wandering, f**k..

I'll check that out dude cheers. I know what you mean about the cost, but I can see there worth.

Cheers Robin, I only want to use AN stuff for the ease in the future. If anyone needs to know for future, I did find this last night and it is exactly what I'm needing... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at165056erl -6 AN to 5/16 tube adapter apparently..

Could someone help me understand AN fittings? I will be using braided line and AN fittings throughout the mini fuel system as it will all be routed internally and I'm not bending hardlines for that . The system uses 8mm ID feed and return, I think -6 AN is the size I will be working with? The fuel reg has 8mm push fit tails, how do I convert from push fit tails to threaded AN? I think its this fitting but not 100%.. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/protec-fuel-systems-an-6-male-to-8mm-barb-ptc15801/ My fuel tank has the same fittings, but I think I'll be swapping to a ali tank with AN fittings anyway so not an issue there. I think Ill probably plumb from the reg to the carb with rubber hose for now, then when I understand a little more replace with AN and braid again

Today on project binky, we fit 2 bolts, guess what'll happen next time and waste 20 minutes of your life..

Oh god

Tailwind - just hang it out and stand sideways in a breeze?

To be honest if you've survived the first 10 or so mins you'll have got away with it.. looking good dude.

Haha nice. It crossed my mind to rebuild mine with a b16 this time round, but I just want to get it going for now with no real hard work so just a slight rebuild will do me. Cleared the garage last night as it was buried after 2 years of housework and generally living. Still need to sort my cupboards out down the bottom and get stuff in there but for now it's workable.

Go for a light coat of raptor, see how you cover and get it out!

1k equivalent is your stonechip really. Upol raptor isn't a true 2k product, and it's that heavy it doesn't produce much if any overspray so you'd be fine with a standard charcoal mask and abit of ventilation dude. I've only used it once and just treated it like stonechip, just builds more so only a single pass is needed.

Did you ever do anything with the clubby Danny?

Liquorice laces are vile, but if it appeases you. Got someone to blast and powdercoat the front and rear subby aswell as the arms etc. Should look great and should look right this time.

I read that about 5 times and laughed so much each time haha

Ha, awesome.. I entered the cotic raffle to win a Rocket build, but 2nd place is cool. Might raffle again and make more money for cancer research. Blanked the names so non of you f**kers claim to be me and claim glory

I will get you pictures when it's all here, what do you want in the pictures as proof they're mine? Sock? Shoe? My mini?

How long between red oxide and stone chip? I can't really see anything you've done wrong but it really comes down to what was on there before. Farm stuff is always just make it a colour and go for a cheap as possible so alot of shitty products get thrown on them. To be honest I'd suggest your stone chip searched through your red oxide and into the previous stuff. My suggestion would be upol Raptor, it's stone chip and truck bed liner but it's a 2k product so less interested in searching down into older layers. That might just get you through without too much work but I can't guarantee really.

Still in the garage, not much changed other then the occasional spurt of interest. Sudden interest has come from the want to go drag racing really. I did think do something with the Fairlane, but that's just too cool to do anything with, whereas the mini is pretty much ideal for some weekend fun!

Forgot how much happiness boxes of car parts in the post brings

Right, that's changed now so my garage ticket is free and open I've been in Cyprus for 10 days just thinking things over and decided this winter is the time for the mini, the yank tank is where I want it untill my new front end and 4 bar setup arrives and I'm really happy with it, got my business to a point where I feel I understand the time it takes from me and what I have spare so feels fair to finally give the mini the time it deserves. On the parts ordered list is... New wheel bearing kit for all 4 corners New bush kit for front and rear, not sure if I'll go to the hassle of fitting it all but the ones fitted have sat for 7 years now. New cones and gen hilos Discs, pads, cylinders and shoes MED lightweight preverto fly, grey diaphragm and rally plate Pre inertia HI torque starter Force racing internal shifter kit, my maniflow setup always smacked the shifter housing New rad hoses Service kit for the HIF44 About 20m of various width hoses I've managed to bag some 5x10 minilites from someone in the local club too so I'll be putting some a032rs on there. On the bench already is... New harnesses Wiring harness Brand new yellow tag MC Non servo pedal box and Clevis pins All IC pipework a d 2wd Cossie cooler Modded plenum to accept IC Pre verto wok and release assembly Megajolt and all the ETIS kit, Fenton trigger wheel setup 5l of a new colour.. I'd like to up a set of fusion fabs manifolds and a GT17, but not sure if I'm interested enough yet. Hoping to get the spare subframe I have powder coated over the next few weeks and get that on some stands so I can rebuild the front end, I'll drop the clutch in and get the motor in at that point, pull the head off and get the valve guides sorted aswell as the new valves recut so I'm off the weird metro turbo sizes. After that I hope to run the new wiring harness, hopefully put together a solid and sensible car this time rarther then try to keep it going. I'm aiming for 140bhp ish, seems a sensible figure for a well built 1293 running mild boost, plus keeps it drivable. The motor has 28cc chambers and 11cc dish pistons if I remember rightly with a CR of mid 8's, I remember it was built to take 20+ pounds of boost, but they just get too undriveable in my opinion unless your after drag numbers. I'm gonna go for a dry build to start with, get it running and to a few RWYB days uneed the belt and a few track days if I fancy and if all proves successful I'll pull it apart and repaint, rebuild nicely and hopefully just enjoy it then. I still have a mk2 shell in my uncle's barn that he panneled up for me, it kinda just sat there after with a coat of satin black, not sure if I'll rebuild into that and scrap this shell off as it's had it's share of patchwork, who knows. For now though let's get it running again and get some use out of it!

Someone's gotta have that clip somewhere