AdamR28

It will. That brake will work great, chuck some cold, clean water on the rotor and drag it on and off a bit while riding round, will bed in faster.

We call it a wodge (sort of the opposite if a wedge).

Nooo don't take it to Mazda. Bash a post on MX5 Nutz and see if any locals can take a look for you. Should be something very simple, like a dead coolant temp sensor so the ECU is thinking it's in cold start and over-fuelling all the time (to be honest that's not a bad place to start, it would give all the symptoms you describe and it's not an unknown issue), and you don't want to shell out £50+Vat an hour to find out! Here's how you check (swap drivers side for passenger side, stupid yanks): http://www.miata.net/garage/faultcodes.html - I reckon you might be showing fault code 9. The Diagnostics Box is a little black cube about 1" x 1.5" with 'DIAG' or similar on it. Open the lid and there's a graphic showing you where the GND and TEN pins are. This is the part: http://www.autolinkmx5.com/temperature-sensor-mazda-mx-5-16-mk1-ecu-rear-of-engine-375-p.asp And here's where it is: It's at the back of the engine, facing the bulkhead, but not impossible to change with a bit of knuckle-scraping. Worth doing the diagnostic first though Edit: Saw your post on Facebook, could also pull a plug out to check - if it's all black and gunky that would also point to over-fuelling, rather than a leaky injector etc.

You didn't bite, dammit

And that the brake will have no power...

My experience says the opposite, but it would still be worth a try. Not really.

I think we already know they will be reviewed as THE BEST TIREZ EVVARR!!!11!! If you want a more considered, longer term review I'd be happy to provide some info.

The Echo levers have different leverage ratios, but share piston sizes. Dot fluid will kill mineral oil seals, and vice versa.

Yes, it is annoying.

Yes. We had them custom made. Yes, hence the info on the website - we either supply the customer a 175mm rotor or ensure they have a post mount brake. The latest batch of frames seems to be fine though, as your friend found. Virtually nothing. As others have said, get a 175mm rotor or get the frame warrantied, two choices

Cheers. Erm, it does when it's raining sometimes Other than that, not really IMO.

Nope, it just evens things out

Dampers don't control body roll. They do change how the car feels on initial turn in though, and this is what people get confused with. Cliosport is one of the worst car forums for handling/suspension advice, don't think I've ever seen a 'correct' post on there about it! I love the rear anti roll bar recommendations, 'wow my car has so much more grip now!!!' - actually it has less grip, just a better balance. And the cocking a rear wheel thing is actually bad, a wheel off the floor isn't providing any cornering force. Its simply a drawback of the archaic rear suspension design. Personally I'd leave the standard shocks on for road blasting, they will offer better compliance. If you did want to change stuff, a set of Eibach camber bolts for the front is a good shout. About 1.5-2 deg of camber up front will make a big difference!

It doesn't need lowering, and nobody cares if your dog bone is a bit dirty Cool to see the progress though, looks much better with the dark wheels.

That's how a racer wins a race... Absolutely smashed it after the safety car!

Decent day down at Thruxton yesterday, pole by over a second (no test day so the regulars / money chuckers didn't have that advantage), fastest lap and a win in race 1, also won race 2. Quality track, so much is flat out, averaging over 87mph for the full 20 minutes! As a result, the video was a bit boring, but here's Race 1 start where Bessell nicked ahead of me cos I was snoozing but then missed a gear, and my fastest lap (1:35.0). Tried to find out where that is compared to other cars and found this link: http://fastestlaps.com/tracks/thruxton.html. Then I LOLd and realised there must be something wrong with those numbers...

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/disc_brake_rotors/hope_mono_trial/c76p24.html

Haha. Yeah 185s on mine too. Matches the car well IMO.

Nowt wrong with 14s

Never heard of them... as long as all 4 are the same, it's reet.

Sounds like it wpukd benefit from a geo, or some decent tyres. Unless, like me, you like going sideways every time its safe to do so

That's a photo you've pulled off the internet for jollies, right?

If they are 389g, they aren't strong that's for sure...

One is 6061 alloy and doesn't have the weight listed, that's all you need to know...!

The forces have to go somewhere though... Looks like a sprag does try and 'explode' the outer race to me - unless they are using something totally different. Even then the torque has to go into either radial or axial force.