AdamR28

M4 x 0.7

Stick a countersunk head bolt in from the back of the blade. A little more iterative to adjust, but you only need to do it once...

Don't worry about the speedo, just get it on track and enjoy it Tyres... I don't think you can go far wrong with Federal RSR-595s for all round sort of use (track, road, wet, dry).

Try a Z510hx. The K series of chains always stretch a lot. Strength and stretch resistance are exclusive of each other.

I'd check that measurement if you can, a pair of chain links is an inch (25.4mm) and you'll probably have about 35 pairs in your chain, so 3% stretch would move the wheel back ~13mm and completely out the back of the dropouts... It sounds like it's just the chain bedding in and you need some larger cams, but I may well be wrong

When you say 'stretched', how much (in %)? Under 1% is ok, you might just need bigger snail cams.

Don't see why not

My spidey senses tell me you want one that doesn't have holes in the bottom. You're welcome!

Yeah, Flipp's riding is definitely made more trialsy by his bars :wink2:

I doubt it - it's just a genuine personal preference. Which is the answer to this thread, pretty much.

That's a great price for the Lifeline 2000! Bash in 'ebay5' at checkout and you should get another 5% off

So you have no idea then Dan?

Found some 'old' (from June) footage on my desktop... short video from Anglesey:

No probs. Looks familiar... we have the same in our series, when a fast Mk1 gets caught up with a slow Mk3... Frustrating and every now and then ends up in carnage

That photo doesn't look too bad as the bar changes the angle of the belts, but have a look through here: http://www.schrothracing.com/sdocs/2009_Competition_Instructions.pdf If it's a proper harness bar it will be up to the job, but a cage is 'best'. If you pick any 5 point FIA approved harness with 3" shoulder straps that would be a good shout. About £110-120 from memory. Bolt in cages will still need some welding, as you put feet ('towers') into the shell and then bolt the cage into these.

Racing incident IMO - GT3 driver was unlucky to lose it / shouldn't have lost it, then the car who hit him should have had more about him and got further onto the grass to get out of the way. Or aimed for where the GT3 was, that's the general rule - although training your brain to do that completely counter-intuitive thing in a split second is tricky.

What about maintenance costs and service intervals? That was exactly my point...

^^ This. And make sure they're on a proper harness bar, not a strut brace or bolted into the floor...

Should do - except that photo is of a 20" fork

Yeah. Its like comparing a Ferrari to a Ford...

Looks well, and should ride great with that setup. Where'd you get the frame from dude?

Ah, you'll have 15L in the tank at 1/4 full. 24mpg sounds about right, service should bring it up a touch... check tyre pressures too.

If you're convinced it's a fuel leak, stick some UV dye in the fuel. How far are you letting the fuel run down before a fill-up? The Empty means you have about 10L left, giving ~35L per fill, therefore 20mpg, which is a bit low. I'd expect more like 25mpg (non-interference engine that runs very rich!). Get the service done and see what it's like after that...

But you can fit a Magura on a V-Brake mount...

What sort of mpg are you getting? Does it do many short runs? What have you checked so far? Could try adjusting the idle screw, covered by a black bung on the throttle body. Flat bladed screwdriver. Again won't help economy but nice to have the idle where it should be if you can do it with just a simple adjustment.