AdamR28

Can you just squeeze some 20mm (and a bit) OD / 15mm (and a bit) ID sleeves into the current axle? We had the same request from a customer the other day and I nearly shat myself when I saw how much the conversion kit was... Don't mind firing up the lathe one evening if that helps.

What exactly do you need?

Taller tyres is a good shout IMO.

What car is it?

Bit OTT for a No6 ph2 screw

They will look like the one on the left on this photo (the completely ruined one): I've never tried the 'cutting a slot' method, does that actually work?

Crying in a corner. I've been in the same situation

Might have to bust out the drill... I don't think are (m)any MX-5s out there with intact headlight unit screws, haha.

Went for a drive yesterday morning. Found some awesome roads. Icy patches in dips and in shaded areas made it interesting. Win.

Haha, ace. There's something awesome about driving hideously unsuitable vehicles in such a manner... Still want a 1.3 K11 Micra to turn into a track day car, lol.

As above, get a Shimano one if you can, cheaper the better.

Yeah, if it's being used as a road car then OE roll centre is a good shout. But then again so are OE shocks IMO!

Because racecar. Looks like a simpler way to do it, bump steer correction too Be very interesting to see what you think of the kit, there are pros and cons to such a low roll centre and I think people tend to bum the shit out of new stuff just because they paid for it and want it to work, haha. I reckon most of the difference people can feel is due to the bearings than the roll centre adjustment...

Insurance premiums are mainly about how likely you are to hurt someone / something else, the amount of cover you get for your own death/injury is minimal.

What's the deal with the roll centre kit? Does it move it up or down? Paste a link if that's easier! Edit: found one on pure motorsport. Looks nice, but I'd rather have a spare car for that money, wow! Does anyone do a wishbone inclination angle correction spacer (or similar) for the lower ball joint? You could also do the same thing by moving the top mounts outwards, and that would give better camber correction in roll too.

Which forks exactly? There must be a user manual online somewhere...

*puts hand up*

Infra-red lamp? For your fingers I mean, not shagging on the train.

Exactly. We hoped it would be clear enough that it would only run on 25th given that the day you click is Number 25 and Boxing Day is the 26th... Sorry. Edit: Can see where the confusion may have come in now, the code reverted back to last year's which did run for both the days. We will honour the 10% for anyone who contacted us about it on 26th December.

The Try-Alls work absolutely fine if you follow the instructions, but the resolution of adjustment isn't that great. I'd say TNN if you must have washerless.

Woke up this morning and forgot it was Xmas day, that's how Xmassy I'm feeling! Hope people have a good day.

I'm a massive disc fan, but I'd say in this case go for a rim brake, the tab on the Zoot is a bit of an afterthought...

http://advancedmotoring.org/gear-we-go-block-changing/ http://www.goecospeed.com/driving_tips.html - 30mph in 2nd gear in most cars can't be far off 2800rpm?

I see it as saving wear and tear on the clutch But yeah, just wait longer until the revs drop more, job done. You can shift like this even without the clutch.

Yeah, try fresh gearbox oil, some decent stuff, that should help. It may be a worn syncro, or maybe even something misaligned in terms of the shift linkage, if it was gearbox/engine mounts I think it would have the same issue in all gears usually?