AdamR28

Hmm, not really. The forge tool is whatever it is, all the stems will come out the same. It will be listed in the catalogue as a 145 x 25 not to blow people's minds with strange geometry Edit: We could measure all the stems we have and they'd come out differently to what the company said they were. To the todo list....

It's a '145 x 25' but we measured it rather than CTRL+C, CTRL+V from the Clean site.

Hmm. I didn't have that issue with the cat, but yeah, I think the manifold nuts will have slight better ground clearance / access. See what you mean! I'd be getting some new bolts ready to go in, and also lather them in copper grease upon fitting. Torque wrench would be handy (40Nm) but 'pretty tight' would do the job as well.

Should be fine, I've done a couple before just on axle stands (although I think I had the rear elevated a bit too). As long as you have a breaker bar, 6 point sockets (you need a 14mm IIRC) and some wobbly extensions (about 3ft's worth) you should be fine. Worst case the bolts will snap and you can just replace them anyway

Are they actually dead? I've haven't heard of many / any going, even on the race cars. Good guide here: http://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/how-replace-your-rear-wheel-bearings-without-press-56506/ You will need a puller for the hub, trying to knock the driveshaft out of the bearing does not happen easily!

I love dreams.

TFTD2 I still need to get on the case with that...

At least it's sort of slowly becoming something like a because racecar Brum brum from Saturday:

Isn't that harness in the photo of the tranny a 3 point?

*insert joke about nuts and gaping holes*

You know it makes sense... No track days planned at the moment, going to see how it goes with racing, work, other stuff and see what spare money / time I have... Likewise though if you book something give us a heads up

Sounds good to me, crack on I say Look forward to seeing further progress (and hopefully getting on a track day again with you sometime!).

Does it handle / idle / start / stop yet?

Yep, your carpets and interior have gone, I'd say that's the desired result

Well if the left hand side doesn't hit, another / a wider spacer would solve it completely

Hmm, I'm not sure either. I would probably just increase idle speed so it never did it Maybe worth a new set of plugs and leads? Should be about £20 all in.

Spacer between bb shell and bb in your case Dave. Sam, you ideally need cranks with more offset (or get handy with the grinder!).

Not sure on the rules, but from an 'It'd be a twat to get a vehicle out from those gates' point of view, that's not a great place to park..

Alex - Front is 2.6 (maxed out) and rear 3.1 (best handling balance is about 0.5 more at the rear than the front). I would have a little more if the car allowed me. The camber gain is what makes everything so good though: http://www.virkki.com/jyri/miata/camber/camber_NA_R.png Yeah, guess it is pretty light considering the cage is 46kg and I have to add 4kg of ballast to make minimum weight

It's more the chassis I think. The camber correction of the wishbones is amazing. Soft suspension works well in some cases The MX5 is 960kg with driver, and we're on 195 section tyres. Makes sense and I would agree. Prime example right here at the front of our grid. Check out how the red and white car gets a crap start then somehow is in front into turn 1! That's just a plain power difference...

My point is it's not worth them developing a rim brake. Josh's pie charts are probably about right The whole Drop and Roll disc brake thing is a marketing exercise. It's not to sell trials brakes, it's to sell MT series brakes to XC / FR / Enduro / DH riders who have heard of Danny.

Trials is TINY for Magura though. Apparently they sold over 1 million HS33 brakes last year, how many of those will have gone on trials bikes?

Hmm. Could be you know! The alternator should kick out enough juice, but being old it may be a bit less efficient then previously. Guess a multimeter will confirm Should be over 14v while the car is running.

Cheers dude, same for your vids! Haha, yeah there were a few hairy moments, keeps you on your toes though The level of driving does seem good yeah - for example a guy who won Formula BMW in his first season, got onto the Red Bull academy, won 14 out of 16 races in another series in 2012 (his first season racing that car) and nearly won the MX-5 Mk3 championship last year qualified 16th, DNFd the first race (span into the gravel) and was 25th in Race 2. The control tyre this year is the Nankang NS-20, it's a budget Chinese road tyre, about £35 each over here. If ABS was fitted to the cars as standard (rare), it must be removed to comply with the regs. Yeah, I tend to spend quite a lot of time playing about in the wet to try and find where the grip is, the regular lines get so polished up they are like ice, so by taking outside lines and braking about a car's width inside where you normally would you can often find more grip. You travel a bit further but the key with such little power is keeping the car rolling... The box is my datalogger - I'm pulling about max 1.3g lateral / 1.0g braking in the dry and max 0.95g lat / 0.75g braking in the wet. The fact I barely ever seem to lock the brakes means I'm not trying hard enough though

Hmm. Not experienced that myself before, but I'd go for an Italian tune-up