AdamR28

I think they usually go on that website, Twitter is it?

Hmm. I think it might be tight. From memory the OD of the bearing in the drive side of that hub is 28mm, and with an M30 x 1.0 thread pitch for the sprocket, it doesn't leave a lot of material...

Snorted

Not sure if M6 rod will be up to the job... I'd go to at least M8 if you can, then a regular penny washer would work (unless its a 1.5 headset?).

Never heard of one... What's it for? Holesaw and a sheet of steel? Laser cut item?

Tank slapper through Molehill I reckon.

That's... impressive.

It never was a racecar anyway so it doens't make a difference...

The sun.

No

You can just tick the 'you sent me the wrong stuff' box rather than the 'I ordered the wrong stuff box' and you'll get a free return... Cheap Calembaks = false economy.

I think I'm going.

Fixed

Who cares, you can't see the front of the car while you're driving it!

1) Toe looks good, somewhere between there and 0.2deg is nice. Camber I would push to 1.8-2.0. Make sure they do your corner weighting properly! http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/setting-corner-weights-a-second-opinion/53213/page1/ 2) Matt black is good (for brake dust reasons, and I like contrast, either dark car and light wheels or light car and dark wheels). 3) NS2R in medium.

Yeah, tight pivot, have seen that before, usually the pin / bushing. Remove the T10 screw that clamps the blade to the pivot pin and see what happens.

Everything in the trials world is late though... I actually like the concept. The problem with trials at the moment is that nobody is innovating. Yes, a suspension / rebound frame might not be the future, but if nobody had ever made a seatless bike, decided to put two sets of bends in a handlebar instead of one, or designed a 19" back wheel, where would we be now?

I initially thought it was an April fool as well, but Hashtagg got in touch asking what we thought of it... I think it's real.

Hmm, not really. The forge tool is whatever it is, all the stems will come out the same. It will be listed in the catalogue as a 145 x 25 not to blow people's minds with strange geometry Edit: We could measure all the stems we have and they'd come out differently to what the company said they were. To the todo list....

It's a '145 x 25' but we measured it rather than CTRL+C, CTRL+V from the Clean site.

Hmm. I didn't have that issue with the cat, but yeah, I think the manifold nuts will have slight better ground clearance / access. See what you mean! I'd be getting some new bolts ready to go in, and also lather them in copper grease upon fitting. Torque wrench would be handy (40Nm) but 'pretty tight' would do the job as well.

Should be fine, I've done a couple before just on axle stands (although I think I had the rear elevated a bit too). As long as you have a breaker bar, 6 point sockets (you need a 14mm IIRC) and some wobbly extensions (about 3ft's worth) you should be fine. Worst case the bolts will snap and you can just replace them anyway

Are they actually dead? I've haven't heard of many / any going, even on the race cars. Good guide here: http://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/how-replace-your-rear-wheel-bearings-without-press-56506/ You will need a puller for the hub, trying to knock the driveshaft out of the bearing does not happen easily!

I love dreams.

TFTD2 I still need to get on the case with that...