AdamR28

From an axle fatigue point of view, nearer the dropout. I think, when considering the hub / rear sprocket, it more depends on the bearing layout and design of the hub. Overall, I tend to let my front sprocket decide where the rear one goes.

My experience is that you'll need a new rotor.

That is pretty normal after wetting the rotor. However, new pads AND rotor required to get the brake working properly again. No exceptions.

Could perhaps have been the tiny pads on the BB5s getting stuck into the huge holes in the previous rotors? Not sure if its still doing the same with the Shimanos... If you can't be arsed lacquering the frame, a wipe down with an oily rag, WD40, etc does a good enough job of keeping rust at bay. I did a full winter of MTB on mine and it came back 'good as new' with a bit of wire wool afterwards. You do lose the nicely coloured heat zones around the welds though. Awesome to see it built fully and I hope you love it, top work!

Looking ace Managed to have a little ride yet? What sort of length chainstay did you end up setting the rear wheel at?

What a beaut

Perhaps a case of mistaken identity at Hope... wouldn't be the first time stuff like this has got mixed up at their place. There's not a lot to differentiate between the two part numbers, especially to a non bike nerd...

Have you tried the Pro axle?

Bummer! It's quite common on kit cars as they often aren't set up properly... there should be a mechanical stop to the pedal itself (a bolt through the firewall is more than adequate) which is found just before or at the same time as the throttle is fully open.

Did you try to add photo there Tom? Or just belatedly very happy for Luke? I've recently gone full XC whippet, bought lycra and everything. This bike is seriously easy to ride very fast. Technology: who knew?

Brake is contaminated, possibly due to the brake cleaner. New pads and rotor required to get it back to full performance, but burning pads and properly cleaning rotor will help. Organic pads work better for trials.

This x100 the little nadgery stuff is the killer until you've ridden a fair bit of natural!

Weird how this has gone under the radar: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-tyne-61885899 Or maybe not...

Depends on a lot of things... the best thing to do is push your brake pads all the way back, measure the gap, and subtract 2mm

Tarty have stock now. Lever feel is lovely and light. The whole thing looks smaller in person than on photos, weirdly. Power is going to be a touch more than the Tech 3, with associated reduction in pad / rotor clearance.

Its all good, it'll work just fine.

I don't recall that... but then again I can't remember what I had for breakfast today

Have used the Rainsports on both road and track and been impressed with them in all conditions. Obviously dry track days are a bit 'limited' but they don't shred apart and are consistent. Wouldn't hesitate to fit to any of my cars.

Eengoedidee ("a good idea" in Dutch).

Weird. The egde of the cam looks so beaten up! Never seen one like that before. Wondered if the snail cam bolt might have been weird / in a mess / something else, but no. Hopefully the new axle bolt washers help. Plenty of grease on the axle bolt threads and under the head, give it plenty of torque

My fault for not being clear - I mean whatever the toothed outer edge of the cam is butting up against.

Got any photos of what your snail cam is resting against?

Yeah, you can chop a cassette apart. Usually involves grinding the heads off the 3 pins that hole them together. Shifting won't be great if you have huge jumps, but it will work. Definitely go clutch, each of the mechs should have a range value listed. I'd buy whatever you can find at the moment! @Maintenance Justice to the forum please.....

That's odd... points to a frame issue, perhaps. Though the Hex should have a nice flat BB face.

Nope, very easy to bleed because the location of the bleed port is naturally at the highest point of the system.