AdamR28

Pretty much I'll probably do a track day first and then decide what needs to change before I start bolting bits of B&Q on though...

Haha, pretty much. It will already do that as it is but want to take it a bit further! Loose plan... Strip the hell out of it (reckon I can shed ~150kg), cut the windscreen off, DIY build a roll cage, fit some 13" wheels and used slicks, GRP seats, harnesses, service it, fill it with decent fluids and then spank the shit out of it No engine mods at all.

Here she is! Project Red Munter: £1000 Supercar Killer begins

Proper front pads! Watch out when cold, they are shit, haha.

Only if you use baby M6 bolts, the ID of the bearings is only 10mm in that hub - might not yield much improvement over a QR unfortunately.

The Millers Nano stuff is good to be fair Edit: Just found this, interesting... http://www.fastcar.co.uk/2012/08/28/millers-nanodrive-test/ (I currently use Halfords fully synth 5w40, haha - it was on offer at £10 for 4 litres) And another: http://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-drivers-education-forum/736356-power-w-multiple-dyno-charts-and-durability-improvement-from-millers-nanodrive.html

I'm being slow / lazy / busy / delete as applicable

That one - yes, it makes a huge difference on suspension frames specifically. But I also hate the way the MTB industry keeps making up stuff then marketing the crap out of it to sell more stuff.

Fair play. Happy to answer any direct questions about specific models honestly

Sorry, I mean in terms of personality. I don't count their 'agendas' or 'promises' cos they are complete bullshit.

Agreed. Can't trust any of them. I only think the Conservatives have won cos Cameron is marginally less of a spastic than Milliband, Lib Dems didn't get any coverage pre-election and nobody actually wanted UKIP (they just like the idea) - so people voted tactically. We've got the best of a bad bunch...

Stuff can be strong AND light when designed well. Trialtech Sport Lite BB and SL cranks, for example.

42 pages! Christ, I have got a lot to read - thanks

They're standard 14" daisys, sorry!

My race car is about 868kg, that's with a 46kg cage in it, full dash, no lightened body panels and 15" wheels - so 850 should be fairly easy I think, yeah... Westie is expensive to run (comparatively), and I feel bad spanking it non stop on a track day And I want a project...

I need a new project so - Nick, I think I might try and emulate you in a slightly different way Been offered an MX-5 for £500... Stan needs a roof for his, so that's £100 back, all the interior and any 'surplus' items will go, probably a couple of hundred quid's worth. Then chop every last little bit of metal out of the car to get it as light as poss, chuck in a steering wheel / boss, half cage, harnesses and shocks I already have, find some GRP seats, 13" wheels and cheap slicks (smaller rolling radius), give it a full service and spank the shit out of it. Oh, and remove the windscreen and whack some ridiculous aero stuff on it: Et voila, a supercar killer for under a grand

There's no difference between water or oil in that respect, what you have now is frame / rim / pad flex. NP

This. If the pads move as soon as the lever is activated, don't re-bleed.

Tyres and alignment? (A)

^^ Yup. (Well, Z610HX if we are being pedantic, but 95% of people will know what you meant Ross!)

Aluminium crank / hub will expand more quickly than steel sprocket, so heat is not ideal. Sorry, short post as was on phone - I meant for one that's actually tight. You would just snap the chain even if you had a 20ft long chain whip.

Hollowtech? It seems there are two 'standards' for this... they have changed the OD of the cup at some point, new tools are too small for some cups and do exactly as you mentioned

Yeah, it's a turbo, it will do that. Nice torque curve! Do you have a before plot to compare? Bet it was a right mess originally!

Chain whip doesn't work. Tried the technique in the video on TartyBikes site? Always works for us.

Hmm, nope, I don't think anyone said that...