AdamR28

OK. Good luck!

An official Magura hose is your easiest solution. Others can be made to work, but it needs some brain power and can be inconsistent as you have found.

The Smoove stuff Tarty sell is brilliant. Goes on wet, dries to a wax, lasts ages.

Oh, aye, not 'dissing' your info Luke, just adding a link which is really helpful for anyone looking to stick some money away for a bit sorry if it came across that way! I invested a large chunk in October last year, and yep, over 20% down now

I've been keeping an eye on this page, looks like RCI have a 4.6% rate for a year now: https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/savings/savings-accounts-best-interest/#easyaccess Tempted to lock some money away for a year or so, but have a feeling there will be an interest rate hike at the next announcement... and maybe even the one after that.

Best bet would be to nick them out of any dead DUB BB (there will be lots of them floating about I'm sure!). Resolution / tolerances will be too high for 3d printing, I should think...

QFT. Ace video dude! Never thought that song was going to work, but it did So cool that you're enjoying the bike and it's holding up!

Not really anything too exciting... I just seem to go through rear hub bearings at an alarming rate, plus pedals. Bloody pedals. I think I've finally cracked it with some Shimano XTR, but I was wearing out the bearings / bushings in posh pedals really fast (like... under a month). SRAM DUB BBs wouldn't last any longer either. My home setup using a Hope internal top headset cup and 41mm bearing on the left, a Chris King 42mm headset bearing fitted into a reamed out Hope cup on the other side, and a pair of Echo crown races is still running well after almost a year though, thankfully. My theory is that these components were designed for and tested on "normal" bikes, but singlespeed requires massively higher loads. You might climb at 30rpm rather than the "usual" 90rpm, so to make the same power output you need to apply 3x the torque, meaning 3x the load... Waffled on a bit there

Absolute shredder! Its worth watching with headphones too, I'd say.

That's a lot of power then, you're a big dude! That may explain things, especially combined with a keen eye for detail.

That's a very good idea... Dave for prime minister AND head of F1!

Do you have any videos of your riding Daan? You seem to bust a lot of weird stuff (I'm the same on MTB!) and I'm intrigued

Indeed. I think it needs a firm hand this time, or it'll totally get out of control. It is technically cheating, in a very definitive and accountable way! Much easier to define and police than on-the-track antics (who didn't leave who space, etc). I can see teams deliberately overspending in the future if the sanctions are light this time, it makes sense to do so.

They'll get away with a fine I reckon, which is obviously totally at odds with the whole point of a cost cap

Haha, I see. Perhaps levers with adjustment would be sensible in this case (eg. Tech 3, Tech 4). The nylon piece in the Hope lever isn't meant to be constantly adjusted like that, the nylon piece wears out pretty quickly so the reach will constant be changing - it's likely that is the culprit, rather than your head

Time for new brass barrels.

What a farce. Again. Mainly the cost cap stuff, but the confusion at the end of the race was a poor show too

Ha, was just thinking that. Must be the XL frame making the wheels look out of proportion! Bike looks ace though and kudos on the colour coordination I've also joined the Santa Cruz club, courtesy of a bargain Tallboy CC frame that had somehow never been built despite being over 4 years old! I'd rather not have bought another frame and built it up as a bitsa from the spares pile, but because CRCs warranty process is rather slow (over 5 weeks now... and they say 2 more weeks until they inspect it... its good to know the score, but it is quite frustrating) and they wanted the full bike back due to a frame defect (facepalm), I thought sod it. Figure I'll not ride whatever replacement gets sorted out because 1) they don't have any more stock of the frame to replace it with, 2) I'd just break it again anyway (cracked within two months of XC riding) even if they did and 3) I don't want to support them or Vitus given this most recent palaver, so time to move on... Fitted a Slack-R today (not in the pic) to give a bit less OTB feeling on the steep stuff, which brings the geo a bit more up to date - now around 66 head angle. The bike pedals incredibly well even when standing up and mashing (set up singlespeed at the moment as some random courier currently has temporary custody of all my 12 speed drivetrain components hanging on aforementioned bike), and it definitely feels like it has more than 110mm of travel which is cool. I love the details such as proper moulded tubes for internal routing and the additional seals on the lower link bearings. Looking forward to getting my 'proper' bits on it! In other big bike news... had a go at the singlespeed UK champs the other weekend. Pretty brutal course, with over 5000ft of climbing in 32 miles, but had a great time anyway despite a pretty big first lap crash oops. Also met @grant wildman who was there with his sweet Stanton, so we spent some time chatting oldskool trials bikes and nerding about tyres! The highlight though was that I ended up finishing 4th (of 123 riders), which I was totally blown away with considering its my first half season of racing and I was on the home made bike! PS: excuse the lycra... The SS race was a couple of weeks after taking on the Deadwater 100, which was shortened to 83 miles (and 13000ft of climbing!) due to the heat that weekend (Garmin clocked 32 degrees at one point). Had a couple of mechanicals that lost me about 10 mins and a finishing place, but still came home in 5th (sounds better than it is as only 32 entered and 11 finished - though perhaps that's an indication of the brutality of the event!). Again, really chuffed with this one as simply completing this event was what I'd been working towards this year, never mind finishing strongly and towards the front of the field. PS: more lycra, sorry And I'll throw in a photo of the bike so you can take the piss out of my 'spokes' and inverted stem... ha. With events over for now, its nice to be back out riding for fun with mates a bit more as opposed to churning out big miles building fitness. First ride this year with lights yesterday though... winter is coming, yuck! Do you guys carry on through the winter evenings, or give it a rest? On another note... would there be any interest in a TF MTB ride sometime? Perhaps a weekend, somewhere central-ish... Cannock Chase?

Appears not in this case glad you are getting sorted out

I've not seen this before - thought a few people might find it interesting! https://www.ibiscycles.com/our-story/history/7-trials

My only direct experience here is making frames for myself, without the use of a proper jig, no fancy tools, and with DIY techniques. I've made 3 now, and number 1 was a bit of a bodge, but none of the dimensions were more than 10mm or 1 degree different to my drawings. The 2nd was better. The 3rd frame is within 2mm and 0.1 degrees. Frame builders can manufacture to superb tolerances and with great consistency, its just the graphic on the frame is "wrong" in this case. Some good info here: https://www.mtbr.com/threads/manufacturing-alignment-tolerance.1207578/#post-15700651

Possible I guess, but very rare to be the cause. Only way to tell is to strip the hoses off and inspect.

Your frame isn't a 'lemon', the geometry is just different to what the manufacturer states. It's pretty common. But yes, I agree it doesn't make sense! It is something Tarty have discussed at length with Christian in the past, but somehow this is not seen as an issue at Crewkerz.

Yep, known "problem" with this frame. Loads of these bikes out there with the headset cups not sitting flush, without issue, so don't worry. Source of knowledge: I built about 300 of these bikes back in 2003-2004 when I was working for Onza... they had a special lower cup made, which of course nearlt 20 years on they won't have available any more. A heads up, I would measure the BB thread diameter before you go any further with the build... some of these frames have oversized BB threads (by accident), for which the solution was to get some oversized BBs made to fit, which again you will struggle to find any more. Plus these special BBs only came in 119mm square taper, not much use nowadays!

Yup... 44mm insertion diameter, cups hidden inside frame, bearings into cups. The photo above shows the frame has been dented (front of head tube), hence the dimension being a bit small. Should be around 33.9mm. In reality, just press the cup in and all will be ok.