AdamR28

You didn't mention a grind... do you have one? No chance of wandering bite point on a closed system brake. If the pads move as soon as the lever is pulled, with TPA all the way off, you're golden. No need to rebleed.

Glad you got sorted! Powerful levers are powerful

All those bits of swarf look a lot like the tips of ratchet teeth to me... I'd have a good nosey at that while the hub is apart.

Apologies, I missed this! Usually one retension after sitting a day or two, then another after the first ride, perhaps a third a few weeks later. The Berd material is a DM20, which should in theory be zero creep, but I think the splice beds in, along with where the line goes through the hub. How are you spokes doing @Swoofty? I saw Ali the other day and his disc side ones are almost dead now after ~1 year. Some of them are probably more than 50% frayed down at the hub, I'm amazed they're still holding to be honest Perhaps this is a benefit of the Berd hub attachment method - effectively having two pieces of line contacting the hub flange. I've done a bit more testing and built a couple of pairs of road wheels recently with a Berd-type system, using thinner gauge but higher spec line. The spokes come out at 2.2g each (~295mm length), and hold to above the breaking load of a Sapim Laser. I'll do the same system for my XC race wheels, as the Vectran line I previously tried hasn't worked that well (too stretchy). Its amazing how strong this stuff is - just 1.5mm diameter! I now build the wheels in a jig, its so much faster and easier to get the spokes the right length. This stuff works really well on a road bike (my 5.8kg "new to me but made from 2nd hand eBay bargains special" below) as they filter out that annoying buzz you get from hard tyres and stiff carbon frames. And something @Maintenance Justice will fill you on about in the near future I'm sure

No worries. Pretty sure that's where I got mine yup. Looks a bit different to my old one, but Ross-Tech is the one to go for.

If you have 4 VAG vehicles, I would (and did) go genuine Ross-Tech. £60 a pop at a dealer for the same level of functionality, pays for itself pretty quick...

Bleed as normal, like 2005 Magura, from slave up to lever. No need to change the orientation of the lever either, like you do with others. The levers have a lot of power due to the 13mm piston. Where is the flex / mush you're experiencing? Whats the rest of the setup?

Ouch. Heal fast dude!

Same company.

Looking good. And I think the seat works too! If you want to neaten up the rear hose routing, the banjo bolt can be loosened (a tiny amount) to allow it to be rotated. Its sealed with o rings so no risk of fluid loss or need to rebleed

Looks like some sort of Neon or Because, BB yoke and dropouts are their style.

Try a drop of chain lube on the piston.

Inspired don't do yearly models.

The sandy textured masonry paint has worked for me in the past, on wood.

Aluminium piston on the Trial Zone. Who allegedy makes pistons from magnesium? That would be a very strange choice. Have you followed the steps I described yet?

Snow still clinging on tightly up here. Beaut Did a race the other weekend... hadn't planned to enter, but didn't have anything on so just turned up and got an entry on the day. Glad I did, had an ace time! Hamsterley is a lot of fun. Reckon I hit more than 150 jumps over the course of the day, ha. 67 miles and 10500ft of climbing later... Well chuffed!

Hmm. Looks a bit grubby. The circle should be bright and shiny. I'd give the back of the pad a clean and a sand, and degrease inside the caliper carefully.

Pads moving in caliper, nothing to do with pad pin (clearance is necessary for brake function, the pin only stops them dropping out). Its normal, and will bed in / go away with use.

What you have there already, plus some sort of decent brace from the top disc mount hole to one of the 4-bolt mount holes, and I reckon you're good to go.

Monty or (fairly sure) Jitsie ones will work nicely. Or lop a bit off the Echo ones!

Aye, the super long crank bolts finishing pretty much exactly where the crank splines did led to a stress riser. Shorter bolts help a lot. Never seen a failed axle on the Trialtech one, mainly because of the M14 thread, but also because of excellent quality and correctly sized crank bolts.

Not necessary, there's no pressure in the system while bleeding (because the bleed nipple is open), so the pistons won't come out.

A frame that has lasted The Man Who Breaks Everything 3 years will last a lifetime for mere mortals

So f**kin good

Could also fit a tube, inflate the tyre to seat both beads, then deflate it and remove the tube. With a bit of luck, that will leave you with one bead seated and only half the amount of places for air to go leaky leaky when trying to air it up tubeless.