AdamR28

100mm :( Everything standard uses this - Road bikes, MTBs, BMXs

Its not as if thats good though! Check through the pages, the castle amination thing is still there...

So, when you try to do the bolts up, the hub doesnt spin. I've got one right here. You just use the tensioners i described for it.

Your bike shop is retarded - put the tensioners on the outside of the dropouts... Or snap the pins off the axle spacers (less recommended, haha)

There are two small threaded holes down by your dropouts. You can screw small bolts in there, then use snail cams (pushing against the heads of the bolts) to tension your chain. Or... 10mm BMX-style chain tugs, like the ones which come as standard on the bike will fit.

http://www.trials-shack.co.uk All the info you need is on there (Y)

I think these guys are on about Middleburn style ones Aust, rather than simple 'discs' for UCI setups (Y) An example of Mr. Potts' work: Any shape/size can be made - thats just an exampe of a before/after bashring :blink:

http://images.google.co.uk/images?q=adam+read&hl=en Haha, theres a piece of coursework I did at uni aaaggeess ago in there! (3rd down on the right) Hmm, someone did a really bad job of compressing the picture :P

Well, it'd use a custom stem, like this one does. I reckon, since bar heights vary from around 37-41" (approx guess, in relation to the ground, on a 'normal' frame), you could have a 50mm (2") BB rise or drop, and it still feel 'normal' to a certain rider. However, people with low bars normally would be those with higher BBs (generally). I had a point... oh yeah, basically, i reckon anything more than 20mm BB rise needs a different stem.

Hopefully this will be of some use: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=47418

Best get in touch with the man himself... (Y)

They are still in prototyping, we will be getting some when they are released (Y) Kotov's English is pretty good if you wanna contact him in the time being (Y)

http://margo.student.utwente.nl/el/microwave/ Google = your friend!

The brakes are Martas (Y) And yes, thats right, theyre about £40 (Y)

And we stock them at... well... less than that.

I managed to get all of it, dont have sound here at uni though... Anyway, sweet riding - the rocks were pretty tricky that day (Y) Small thing about the vid - i think it would flow better if you faded between clips rather than fading out to black and then back in again. It'd also mean the clips take up less time (so better file size for same quality, or better quality for same file size). Might be worth working out how you can do that... what editing software are you using?

Its the same process, apart from you pull the old sleeve out*... *only possible on some models of brake - send it back to Hope if in doubt (Y)

Was just about to say that - I've been ripping them away, haha

Whats this called? A Googlesomethingelse? (Y) http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&safe=...ophobia&spell=1

Quick guide - this never fails when done correctly. Attach a bleed pipe to the slave cylinder, and put the pipe into the presta fitment of a track pump, or an air line. Remove bleed screw from the lever. This bit can get messy, go slow at first, and then use a rag to catch all the flying fluid/water: blast air through the system to clean it all out nicely. When this is done, put a couple of drops of chain lube on the seals in your lever, pull it a few times to work the lube around, and then wipe off the excess. Turn all TPA off. Re-bleed with water/water-antifreeze mix. When its all bled correctly, put the TPA fully on and depress the lever (elastic band (Y)" ). Push one of the slave pistons in by hand, and put a few drops of lube on the other one (WD40 also works ok). Then repeat for the other cylinder. Take the TPA off, remove elastic band, and pull the lever a few times to work the lube in. Wipe off the excess. If all done correctly, this will have your brake feeling better than new (Y)

You need a pair of small internal circlip pliers, some goggles, and a bit of patience! Disconnect the hose from the lever (be careful of Dot fluid spillage), remove the lever blade, to leave the push rod sticking out of the lever. Pull the black dust seal off, to reveal the circlip and brass washer. The circlip will come out with a bit of effort, and the piston will pop out along with the spring. Then, just work backwards, and re-bleed - job done (Y)

Another small update - I've just added some wallpapers for download (Y) Go to http://www.tartybikes.co.uk, and click on the 'media' tab at the top of the page. You may need to refresh (Ctrl+F5) in order to see it. Enjoy (Y) Cheers, Adam

Hehe, I think it was Dan (my mate from school, lives with Matt). Tasty :(

And its the same opinion you'll get from Hope themselves should you ask :(

Hahaha, awesome, thanks :(