AdamR28

Catch you on MSN Chris :P

It will be fine. Get rid of the grease, that would have helped in it coming loose...

You can get HS33-compatible hose kits now :P But they dont do green, sorry!

2.5wt Finish Line Shock Fluid? Although, I spoke to Al on MSN - he had a leaky lever, and then he was a bit hamfisted, i'll spare you the gory details (Y)

Hehe, to be honest, I've never ridden there! I met a guy who works at the bowling alley, gave him my number... but nothing came of it (Y) He says theres about half a dozen riders he knows of. I'll try and get in touch with him again, see what's what! (Y)

OOoooohhh Sol Central in Northampton! Did you find much good stuff to ride there? Just wondering cos i'm down there every weekend (Y) Awesome riding though, cool style (Y) Nice vid!

Yep, they sell Koxx stuff, amazingly!

Bit of a bump going on here! Here's my beast (Y) Check the weight-saving going on, haha.

Those three downtubes are significantly different. You might wanna narrow it down to '2003 T-Pro' only... As for using the armoured dildo, I personally wouldn't bother. Ive found i dent my frame much more from crashing/jumping clear of the bike than when im riding it, and most of these dents appear on tubes other than the downtube. If you wanna keep your stickers looking fresh, just cover them up with tape - a lot lighter and cheaper too.

I had a connex one for about 10 minutes, then it landed me on my face, and its still in my tool box... To be fair Seb, you've done bloody well to get 9 months out of a Shimano chain! A fatty like me breaks them clean in half within a couple of weeks (I have experienced it a few times :) ). And theyre bloomin expensive! I'd hazard a guess at a Thin KMC Kool fitting on a 9 speed cassette... just... but I can't guarantee anything until I can get the two together for a closer look.

1. Unlikely 2. Not without machining the spacers down

How much thread is there on your cranks? And how much thread does the freewheel take up? The Echo bashring takes up another 5mm... which may mean you havent got enough thread for a freewheel (as opposed to using a fixed sprocket). It may also not clear the back of your crank arm, due to its shape. Hope thats of some use, and makes sense! Adam

Sounds good to me. or Http://www.yell.co.uk - engineering companies, etc Or just buy the kit and do it yourself (Y)

Yep, they can!

Helicoil is the much better option.

Its called a Try-All rim, Sam, and is about £10 more :turned:

Pretty sure thats not the case Stu? :turned: Dont KMC claim breaking load of 1300kg for the Kool, and 1100kg for the 510? I also had a K510HX, and killed it pretty quickly - sheared a plate in half. Might be something to do with them being used on BMX instead of MTB?

The larger ones (from bashplates) came in 6 colours. The ones from rims only come in blue, purple, red and gold :turned:

A few drops inside the ratchet, and a couple on each pawl seat should do the trick. It'll work its way out of the drive mechanism over time anyway if you put too much in :turned:

Has been there for a while Mr Mark :turned: I notice it doesnt mention build quality or spokes used...

Hey Jon, Our current site is a tempoary measure to tide us over until the final one is complete. Its just one simple template that a mate of ours boshed together in a couple of hours. Myself and Dave are/were respolsible for filling in all the info, and adding pictures etc. Hope thats of use, Cheers, Adam

I bought one, but the teeth dont have much space between them. It doesnt rip into the rim as well as you might imagine, but leaves very sharp and very light grinds (good for a front wheel). Also makes a cool metallic ringing when you use it, hehe :- Oooh - discs - i use a stone cutting one :turned: Beasty.

That sounds rather high :turned: 850N of force is about the same as you standing on it... I wouldnt have thought your tensioner is quite that powerful?! Either way, theres no real limit, its not as if youre gonna be able to create as much tensiuon with your tensioner as you are when gapping etc... Ads

You can still get red caps for them... and lever blades :blink:"

:angry: You move the stud to the bottom hole for 24" wheels... which means the brake arm fouls the top half of that huge chunk of alloy.