AdamR28

Isnt is Rowan, taken by Matts brother, Drew?

1100 ish wheelbase... rides a lot shorter :lol: Like Waynio said, longer bikes are a LOT easier for this move... some bikes wont even go in the position on the vid without toppling over, lol.

The 4th one up was undersized, ok? :P :lol: :P

Yeah, did you watch the vid? Can do a bit bigger than that now I think :P

Im a shortly at a mere 5ft 8 and a bit :lol: Tis the bike I tell thee :P"

Hmm, nope! I left the whole move in, the pallets wobble like a bitch when I land on top :lol: Should be 10 secs long... Edit: Ah, good stuff :P

This is how I do it: - Get balanced, rear brake off, front brake on. - Let the bike lean a tiny amount towards the obstacle, basically toppling over. - Preload tyres (rear AND front) and forks by crouching down a tad. - Jump upwards HARD, throwing arms up and forward, while bringing bike under you with your legs. - Grab the rear brake. - Land. And like Dave said - at an angle to the obstacle, i try and get my feet/pedals parallel with the obstacle (if it fits ok) Note: Often helps to go sideways a bit, like in the video. And it helps to be tall (you buggers, im only little :lol:) Right Click, Save Target As Hope that helps... Adam

Thought so Mr Wayne, no worries :D :)

http://tartybikes.co.uk/info.php?info=media Number 8 (Y)

Prezunctly! Library me up (Y) (Y) ;)

No chance of getting a couple of headset spacers in there? Or maybe some riser bars? Just other options (Y)

Ahh i see, probably best to Google it - http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&safe=...+circular&meta=

You dont even need equations of motion... Circumference = 0.107 x pi And then 75m/answer = RPM.

Indeed it is, Dan from Deal (UrbanLegend) runs that setup with good results (Y) We can get the bashring seperately, just not listed on the site yet... price is £10 each plus £1 postage, for any of the sizes. As for the stem - I've not used one myself, but the quality is excellent, machined from a single billet, fully finite element and rider tested, loads of colours, loads of lengths, 2 rises, 2 bar clamp sizes... the list goes on! Adam

You don't need a formula for that mate! Just calculate the circumference... and go from there (Y)

That first bit doesnt really apply - theres more squidge from the pads than the hose. The last bit is where it applies to trials riders - I've broken hoses a couple of times, its very annoying. Imagine if you fell off, and landed on your hose in the first section of a comp. £10 entry fee, £15 travelling expenses down the pan... braided hose would have just shrugged it off, and you could ride on, and they've pretty much paid for themselves in one ride. The old £3-5 Vs £35 debate is a good one too. However, I reckon braided would last 10 times longer. I've had around 3 different plastic hoses in the space of 3 years, through breaking them. I shall be investing in a set of Hope hose when I have some spare money ;) As for the bore/viscous drag etc... everyone should run water anyway (Y) (which isn't far off the viscosity of Dot fluid - which is what these hoses are primarily designed for anyway). Like Steve said - bit of anti-free works wonders.

Dunno man, but if what Steve and Wayne have fathomed is correct, then I don't see why not.

About 15-20mm less, actually... Slinger frame = Slinger geometry, its what he wants...

Im not sure exactly what Wayne's quoted £25 for. I think thats the price for a universal hose kit. However, a full HS33 kit requires an additional two M6 connectors, which bumps the price significantly...

The frame above is an '04 Zoo (with Onza head tube and extra gussets), which Pulo offered to Onza to have a look at. Im not sure what's gonna happen with it. As for a 'long' frame... keep an eye out for a Slinger Signature frame. Wheelbase will be approx 1045. Adam

Yes. But they have a different pattern :-

Thats what I thought too... either way - jus tbed them in as normal Mr Smiff!

Not. M10 x 1.0. Unless you're talking about the bolt that holds the hanger onto the frame... in which case its M8x0.75, i think (standard chainring bolt)

Bloomin eck Will! As said above... bearings are no problem (Y) Araldited Cog... I suggest boiling the whole freehub body - it'll soften the araldite to the point where it'll fall apart.

Alloy nipples are fine if you prepare and build the wheel correctly. However, theyre obviously more prone to rounding off - but a small amount of care and the correct spoke key solves this too. Having said that, I use brass on my wheels, and don't see a need to change (Y)