AdamR28

Koxx stock forks don't have an international standard mount. You'll have to get a larger (30mm diameter more) rotor to fit.

I would disregard the 'cross-hairs' if your stem has a solid (no holes) front clamp, although you will need them to centre the bars in your stem (once the angle has been ascertained). A good place to start is to put a finger into each end of the bars lightly, and let the bars dangle. The weight distribution is such that it'll give you a decent angle of reference, and you can adjust from there as necessary. A similar thing can be done with the Onza Carbon Risers, too. Cheers, Adam

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....c=57082&hl=avid :lol:

Ooh, who's that? As for carbons stems, yeah, no reason not to do it. The problem lies in bolding the carbon to some aluminium clamps, as Mark outlined just now.

Haha, easier said than done. Currently working on Classical Gas... Teen Spirit can be learnt in about 5 mins flat, lol.

Wow, 6ft to back wheel! :shifty:"

Theyre pretty poor to be honest, very hard wearing, meant for XC bikes. My mate used to run a front ceramic rim, tried them, and went straight back to Kool Stops.

I do. Yep, pretty easy actually! I had none at the time, I didnt ever do any 'theory' as such... just leart techniques as and when they were needed to play stuff I wanted to play. I just leant by playing songs I wanted to learn to play... get the tab off the internet, then play it. Its probably better to get lessons and all that, but I didn't have the money. You can get a decently-playing acoustic for a fair bit less than £200 too, I think mine was £120 inc a hard case.

Ok... was just trying to help since you said you were 'scared and your back brake didnt hold' (or words to that effect..). Sorry then.

Still using the Hog rim it came with? It sounds like you just need to let your finger get used to it... You say its not a locking problem, although you said earlier it was? Which is it? One more thing - at what point do you have your brake coming on? Early? Late? I would also advise changing to water, it makes the brake feel a lot lighter. Make sure you flush the oil out beforehand though. Try a search for info of how to do that.

And hence called the 'trampoline effect' :) Coeffecient of restitution of club faces has now been limited to 0.87 for those interested ;)"

The soles on the Ribo and Try-All shoes are not foam. 'Foam' is usually made from EVA rubber or PU. PU is not used often due to its poor frictional properties. They will most likely be made from a moulded and un-foamed blend of PVC and SBR Rubber. Just think the abuse a set of pins gives soles :) Foam wouldn't last 2 minutes. One small thing - Aaron, your shoes may last a little longer if you get your foot on the pedal more squarely ;)

Sorry Ben, I meant 'they' as in the £8 shoes. I would recommend the Ribos though. Its hard to find shoes with ankle support. The only ones I know of are the 661s.

Impact weight? I don't think there is such thing... There is impulse, which depends on the speed and mass of the body... but impact weight... never heard of it. 'I don't see how the expansion of the ball can make it accelerate though?' Imagine you have a balloon... make an 'O' with your forefinger and thumb, and then try and pull the knot of the balloon through that 'O'. Then let go. Very similar type of thing with the golf ball - the deformed part of the ball 'catches up' and can make the whole thing change speed.

The Ribo shoes have a completely different sole to the Try-Alls :) They look decent for the cash though!

Hehe... the ball compresses though (to approx 75-80% original diameter on a drive)... and only returns to shape after it has left the club head. It sorta 'wobbles' about a bit, rebounding/recompressing enough to (theoretically) make it accelerate and decelerate in the air (for a very short period of time after the strike). Depending on what sort of time frame, the ball obviously negatively acellerates to a stop, and also acellerates towards the centre of the earth due to gravity. So... actually... both are probably right in different cases ;) Edit: Acellerates... accelerates... confused :)

It can't go from no speed, to some speed, without accelerating - simple!

In the hope of speeding up your decision Ben: :)

Exactly - its a 3.6lb comp-orientated frame :)

Thats the one. Bloody beast game, haha.

I agree, overall. How long have you been riding? What sort of standard are you at? Whats the full setup of your brake? Mod or stock?

1: http://tartybikes.co.uk/image.php?image=spokes.gif :) 2: The one shown in the picture on Alan's is a 14mm axle version. The descriptions on the Wiggle website make it tricky to work out exactly what they are selling. You need a 12T driver, with 10mm Allen Bolt axle (well, thats the most common). Like Lee said, feel free to get in touch if you have more questions. Cheers

Cheers for pics. Don't suppose you do a lot of blunting (coming backwards off stuff) with the brake on? Either way, looks like theres not been enough heat, and the weld hasn't actually got 'into' the seatstay. I should think that will be replaced.

Which cassette do you have? Most of them are held together with three allen key bolt pins, which can be removed easily.

Yep, just rang Onza to ask about the price change. Brains are available on special order :-