AdamR28

The ones shown in that link? Stick with your Plazzies, for now...

Erm, thats the clip, you'll be needing that! Clues on how to do it are here: http://www.heatsinkbikes.com/?p=hs33

+20mm should work :( 6mm plate won't work - you need the offset.

Sounds long for an ES2!

:(

Which video?

But it will be soon :)

They're also TINY - avoid!

They should do the trick. Just squeeze (Y)

Pair of needle-nosed pliers. Pic in a sec...

Indeed, and Koxx, plus others. Theres a theory, as Steve hinted, that thicker pads may wear MORE quickly than thinner ones, due to the 'float' while using an HS33 brake. This allows them to wear at an angle, which is bad for wear life. It may be, therefore, that the other 'expensive' pads are thin for such reason, rather than the company being stingy! We shall see (Y)

Got one on the way to me Mink, catch you on MSN (Y)

Going to find myself a nice fresh chunk of tar now to give these pads a good testing! (Y)

Haha, Joe you muppet :o Speak to Austin :lol:

Can he make custom 160mm long BBs as well? :lol:

1.37" x 24 tpi As wide as the threads on the freewheel.

The reds work great, its the wear life that was discovered to be a problem on HS33 brakes. Should be a couple more pairs of pads with me tomorrow for testing... with more following shortly.

I'll wait for finished pictures to appear before passing judgement!

You'll need a 215mm rotor. Adam

The nature of trials makes it almost impossible to offer 'test' bikes (in the proper sense of the word anyway, not just a 'lets hop on the back wheel for a bit'). Anyway, full build Onza bikes are often in stock, and I'm sure Dave would be available to show you parts if a convenient time was arranged. Hope that helps, Adam PS: Dave is available for £3.99 with free postage!

Hope 'Gold' being the closest to yellow :turned: Adam

Okey dokey :turned: What sort of squealing? Very high pitched, or more of a 'vibrating'? The first one means your brake is working well, the second means your mounts need facing and the caliper re-aligning. Either way, having the brake over-full won't help with the rubbing. Wheres the leaking from? The little square hole on the side? If so, just wipe it up, that perfectly normal after a brake has been bled, and will stop soon.

1) Loosen all rotor bolts by half a turn. Grab the rotor by the 'arms', and rotate it anticlockwise, while you tighten the bolts up. The centres the rotor on the hub. 2) Put bike upside down, loosen caliper bolts, and pull the caliper away from the hub by hand. Then tighten the bolts again while keeping the caliper held in that position. That should help, if not, shout back :turned: Adam

What exactly is wrong now Mike? If you could outline the problems one by one please, I can tell you the solutions. You don't wanna go filling the reservoir up all the way (with the pistons out), since it then allows no room for heat expansion, and won't let your pads retract - hence the rubbing If the pistons are sticking, you need to lube them. Use silicone spray (the sort of thing car garages use on car dashboards to make them look shiny) to do this.

As has been discussed in this thread, we're onto it, and already much closer than a couple of days ago :D I must agree that the Plazmatics I'm currently running are rather sweet. They seem to be a of a benchmark... But like you said Chris, Steve's put a lot of time into the finer points of pad production, so we're hoping that, with the extra bits and bobs of knowledge I can contribute (including testing/feedback of the pads, alongside Dave), the compound can be finally nailed. Theres certainly been a few interesting discoveries already (Y) Are the pads set up PERFECTLY square? Without a grind to bed them it, it will take a long time for them to reach full performance. Adding tar doesn't really help - it just acts as a barrier between pad and rim, so they'll never bed in! I tried some yesterday on Stan's bike (dead, light grind) and they were pretty good. I'm yet to try them on a fresh light grind, but the ones I used were on my uber-fresh (and pretty harsh) grind didn't seem to like it - hence the new recommendation for Konigs on light grinds/smooth rims, with further development being carried out on a harsh grind brake pad.