AdamR28

Yep, the info is late, due to it not being given to us as promised. Still trying...

Also made by 'Edd Potts, The Cock-Juggling Thundercunt':

:rolleyes:

Couldn't have put it better myself, haha. 32h = 258/262 though.

Pretty much, although the bearings are fully sealed cartridges, so its not really an issue. The main thing is that the end caps space the bearings out so they run properly, and create a better contact point. Which would you rather run?

I would recommend trying a new chain for starters - sounds like you old one's on its last legs. How old was it btw? Then if the new chain doesn't mesh properly with the old bits, its time to get new sprockets/chainring too. If thats the case, you can always nick one of the spare links to fix your old chain to keep you riding until all the new bits turn up! Adam

Yup, Noz is right, they just go right in there. You can't remove either of the spacers on Profile hubs for future reference (and have it run properly!) :)

You'd be right, in his age group :) Kinda misleading way to put though it Aust!

Thats right, today also doesn't end for about another 11 hours :)

Yo Andy, Are you gonna be at the next YMSA? If so, let me know and I'll bring my hub tool along, no charge, just wanna restore your faith! ;)

I don't think pinning a few sprockets together will help much - you'll most likely find that the pins are either bent or snapped next time you take your cassette off. We asked ID to specifically order them in from the US for us :) Pretty much any sprocket will work fine on your steel driveshell Dean, but the Surly ones are gonna be your best bet. All the performance of a King Kog (well, better actually), at a much better price!

I wouldnt have thought so. Thats right - however you can fit a rear Mono Trial caliper and a +20 adaptor in the frame, meaning a 200mm Mono Trial rear brake could be used! See above :) Avid calipers won't fit inside the frame unfortunately. Hope thats of use :) Ads

Just cos you like Green (Y) All the Viz rims I've built so far have been the same as yours Scott - it may be worth you taking an adjustable spanner to the offending area and bending it true? (Like you would with a dent). Just an idea! :angry:

We've been trying for weeks! Getting geometry details tomorrow apparently...

This is how I did it: Or just get some snail cams, yeah. As others have said - just give your Profile a little while to settle down :angry:

CLS version has 375mm stays, Yao Zhi version is 362mm (claimed, they measure more like 365mm) stays.

DB = Disc Brake. The lever's been around for a while :-

You've said you don't wanna spend more than a tenner, so surely the choice is no-brainer?

That's probably due to the pins picking up on the edge of the bashring.

Note to Trials-UK 1) Please stop copying and pasting descriptions from our website, its a breach of copyright. Same with the pictures you have used. 2) If you're gonna rip a description, at least put it on the right component (Y)

What spacer things?

Whats that '20' measured in? Surely theres some sort of calibration scale in the manual of your tensoimeter?

Axle, End Cap, Preload adjuster, Driveshell with full compliment of bearings. Someone with a bit of nouse!

And the threads will fall out of your frame. You can get away with 5mm on some BBs with a lot of threads, but 10mm is FAR too much!

Sounds more like a Royal Mail problem to be honest... give it a couple of days and then contact them again, I'm sure they'll send some more out if need's be <_<