AdamR28

Yeah, I know. 5mm spacer won't be idea on the drive side of a BB. I'll explain in my PM...

The Pro is better, should be details on http://www.fullspeedahead.com 118's gonna be tight in your frame though...

You shouldn't be running a split link with gears - theyre not designed for it. Also make sure the clip goes on the correct way, will help it to not ping off :)

That quote's a bit skewed Mark... I dont remember you telling me you built it in 20 mins Pete, thought it was a leisurely build in front of the TV with a cup of tea? Either way, check the dishing properly, its unlikely you have a bent frame.

I'll start... Found in Ireland, saw two of them.

Tis a very good ratio that, I wouldn't change unless you really want more clearance at the front/wanna shed some weight! I personally run 18:15 with 175s, but wouldn't mind 16:14 on some 170s if I end up on a frame with a lower BB... Oh yeah, and do what Phil says :-

Definitely... :D

Looks like someone by the name of Andrew Morgan has been playing with a CAD package...

My word, you actually look gay Tomm...

3 cross both sides. Rear trials wheels arent the place for experimenting with lacing patterns!

You cant - sealed carts.

Like what... Head tube, BB shell, tubes, two triangles and dropouts? The Ninja is a very different beast to the Limey. Maybe if the Limey it was silver your judgement would be different? As Aust and Si say, there have been numerous versions of the Limey throughout prototyping, its a top frame, and I'm sure you will enjoy it - similar colour to the Ninja or not. About 'frame copying', you have to remember all these frames are made in the far east. The drawings for the frames are made available to pretty much anyone who wants them. The T-Pro/Levelboss mod frames are in the catalogue on the Pulo website for all to see. I believe Zona were asked if they wanted to order ZOO Python frames with 'Zona' on them - they declined, and made their own version instead, actually making things more difficult for themselves! Enjoy your frame :sleeping:

Steel is easy to weld. Speaking as someone who's only done it once, and passed the test at uni (not a very high level, I may add) without ANY practice, I think its safe to say steel is piss to weld. Brazing may be different though, I'm not sure (how Leesons are held together). Clive probably used brazing since its easy to blow through thin (less than 0.75mm) steel tubes when welding - brazing is at a much lower temperature. Having said that, to construct with Reynolds tubes you need to be certified - so I have no doubt at all Clives very skilled. (I'm probably wrong about some of those details... someone feel free to correct, but that's what I recall :sleeping:) Anyway... aluminium welding is MUCH more difficult. Those welds are sweet as a nut. Give me a mass produced aluminium frame any day, they'll always out last, out-value, and out-weigh (be lighter) a steel frame. Topic in hand - how very irritating having so many 'different' frames, which are all essentially the same.

Seen the BMX axles Mike? Rather beefy :)

Its very unlikely they'll warranty a stripped hub shell - worth a try though! You'll most likely have to buy a new one, which are in the region of £45. The drive mechanism on a King hub is much stronger, and I would hazard a guess at the axle being stronger too.

White = Novice Blue = Inter Red = Expert Yellow = Elite And the YMSA have a 'Super Elite' route for the beasty riders, which is Black (and very scary!)

Last I knew, it was red - soft (as you said) Green was middle/bog standard compound. And then Gold sintered for uber-long lasting. But that was a while back... either way, it appears the reds are the ones to go for on a trials bike. http://www.mtbr.com/reviews might be a useful site :D Adam

Whats the full setup Ben?

Thats likely - how old was your Kool? Worn sprocket + new chain = clunking...

Is it definitely the chain? Have you lubed it regularly? Are there any stiff links?

Yesterday :D

Since we're on with them... 1st August 2003 (didnt bother finishing) 16th July 2003 (got the rest somewhere) Using Unigraphics.

Yeah, seems strange to use a mix of sizes... the axles are 3/8" too (9.525mm), rather than 10mm.

Stock? Info here: http://tartybikes.co.uk/products.php?product=frames