AdamR28

:bunny:

Strange, I've rarely heard of them staying on the backing, haha. The ones I had worked pretty good on a clean (clean ONLY - any dust and the brake was terrible) Mavic CD rim. Wouldn't like to try them on a grind though, pretty sure they wouldn't last long. As for the 50mm versions, I once disassembled a set to nick the backings - I had the fright of my life when I saw they weren't even recessed 1mm!! Rob: Grind your rim, set the brakes up, and leave them. You don't need uber-fresh grinds with CRMs :bunny: Every time you re-set the brake up, it has to bed in, and this destroys pads unless theyre perfectly square (impossible really).

Yeah, I did wonder after seeing some Bristol pics, such a this one: http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/6564/23copy6wy.jpg

The C2 caliper has return springs, so theyre slightly different I think. I once tried a Mini lever on an O2 caliper (same piston ratios as a Mono Trial) - it doesnt work. I seem to remember explaining about it to you on MSN Will :sick:

Any pics of the rim at the moment Mike?

Measured in which respect? I would guess Centre BB to Centre top of head tube to be 27". I believe a Ronnie will fit.

Wrong forum, thats why, hehe. Try this one :rolleyes: Frame looks awesome, I like the tweaks. Fingers crossed for a decent price...

And won't make your hub skip like a little girl as soon as it gets cold!

The T-Pro is pretty damn short (50mm reach and 35mm wheelbase less) than the Zip... but its no 950mm wheelbase 221Ti, hehe. ZOO Python Short? Echo Team Short?

Pretty good case with the Zona... puts things into perspective. £150 for a frame that *might* (but probably wont) break in a few days, or £200 for a 4.7lb frame thats well built and should last at least a year. Plus a fresh warranty. The geometries are totally different though...

Why not go the whole hog and get Fluro Yellow rims as well!?

Just run the hub, tugs outside. Its a fact that your frame will break at some point anyway, no point stressing about it!

Another vote for the degreaser idea. I believe Steve now uses a different degreaser.

Exactly (Y)

You'll never get the same power out of a rim brake on a mod as on a stock though - the ratios of tyre:rim size are completely different.

Xvid rules (Y) Most people complain they cant play it though :- Cheers for the tutorial Alex!

One spacer = 2.5mm = what FSA themselves recommend = no problem :)

5mm spacers = 5mm less thread in the frame = dodgy. Its not a problem with the E-Type BBs since the threads are moved inboard 2.5-3mm.

Yeah, I know. 5mm spacer won't be idea on the drive side of a BB. I'll explain in my PM...

The Pro is better, should be details on http://www.fullspeedahead.com 118's gonna be tight in your frame though...

You shouldn't be running a split link with gears - theyre not designed for it. Also make sure the clip goes on the correct way, will help it to not ping off :)

That quote's a bit skewed Mark... I dont remember you telling me you built it in 20 mins Pete, thought it was a leisurely build in front of the TV with a cup of tea? Either way, check the dishing properly, its unlikely you have a bent frame.

I'll start... Found in Ireland, saw two of them.

Tis a very good ratio that, I wouldn't change unless you really want more clearance at the front/wanna shed some weight! I personally run 18:15 with 175s, but wouldn't mind 16:14 on some 170s if I end up on a frame with a lower BB... Oh yeah, and do what Phil says :-

Definitely... :D