AdamR28

The XTP is actually U6 as well - just the tubes are thinner, to save weight. Like MrsMonkey (haha) says, theres not a lot between then - have a ride of Phils Czar and see what you think! I assure you the Adamant is also very sweet, looks nicer in real life in my opinion - the matt black finish is very classy.

You have to grind the aluminium collar down a bit, to give it room to slide in...

Well it appears everyone's been putting 116mm Echo hubs in all frames; and 110mm Onza/Koxx hubs in 116mm Echo/ZOO frames for ages, so I cant see there being a problem!

You betcha! The rear hubs ARE 116mm spacing, but then again, so are the frames! They've done it since existing hubs were 110, then adding 3mm each side for snail cams... gives 116mm. So the Teams and Pythons have actually been 116 for a while :blink: Adam

Front hubs: 7075 Axle, Custom Made Stainless Steel bolts (dont need a skewer, thus saving money and weight) and anodised washers. Japanese high quality fully sealed cartridge bearings. 6061-T6 CNC machined hub shell. 6 colours available. Weight is 159g - 7g lighter tha a Chris King ISO. Headsets: Oversized fully sealed Japanese high quality cartridge bearings. 7075 CNC Machined cups (same material as Chris King - more expensive than normal alloys). Split stainless steel lower crown. Shallow angle to make sure it stays tight. 6 colours. BBs: Outboard oversized bearings. Constant diameter custom made cro-mo laser etched axle. 6 colours. CNC Machined cups. CNC Machined Stainless bolts included. 308g. Brake Clamps: CNC Machined from 7075. 6 colours. Laser etched. C-cross section so they're stiffer and therefore clamp better. You really need to see the parts in real life to gauge the quality of them, and the thought thats gone into them. Arguably the best quality and most well designed trials parts produced to date...

Disc only unfortunately.

Yeah not a problem!

In The Waiting Line by Zero7 (Y)

If the BB on your new frame is (for example) 50mm higher than on your old frame, then to make it ride properly, you'll need to raise your handlebars by 50mm. A lot of people don't seem to do this - for example, a PZ31 120x17 degree will only offer around 35mm more height (than a 110x5 for example), yet a HiFi has a BB rise of more like 55mm...

You'll need a 'rear' caliper, same for both forks (Y) Adam

The Controls only come in V/Disc or Disc only, so you might as well just get 4-bolt Echo Urbans (Y) They're nice forks though (Control), basically a Pure with a curved blade, new extra thick disc mount, and 400mm length.

Yeah, I think it makes a huge difference. I used to run a PZ31 120x17 with 20mm spacers, but it was a little too low, so stuck a HiFi stem on with the same spacers, and it's great! You really do NEED to raise the bars up the same amount as the BB rise of the frame (for a good all-round feeling). Gear ratio seems to benefit from a bit of a tweak too - since the rear ends can 'shoot through' more easily, I found that going from 20-17 to 18-15 (slightly harder) felt loads better (Y)

Tis called 'kingmechanism.avi'. I'd re-upload it but im on dial up (Y) Sorry!

The original version of the film: 'Saw' I think!

Haha, nice! (Y) Here's a pic Matt sent me, and I agree that it does look pretty sweet! He said something like 73 head angle, 380 stays, 1040 wheelbase and about +30 BB I think - although he'll know more than me! Adam

As soon as KOT have more! (well, a week or so afterwards)

Matt preferred short forks - so he got Smart Guys instead. The KOT forks are Echo pure forks with straight legs. If you like relatively long forks, theyre a good bet - light and pretty damn strong.

Yeah, was gonna say, Viz do 2 widths. The 'Kris Holm' also has the 'brake wear indicator' - you can see it on the picture. There is probably some extra flat spot resistance in the lack of drilling, but that won't help prevent the sidewalls denting.

Yeah, its a Viz rim. Width is 42mm, says in the description. Where did you hear this 'Strongest 19" rim' thing from? Just curious!

Thats shouldn't affect it - its only worn on one side from using the hub with dead bearings in the driver.

You need the one they haven't got in stock. And... Jesus christ, £19 is steep!! Shouldnt be paying more than about £8 really...

You need to deform the rotor plastically - by forcing it past its elastic limit. Time won't do this. And clamping it flat won't produce enough force. Dont use your hands - it will put oil on the rotor. Get a clean adjustable spanner and do it like that.

'04 Control: +20mm '05 Control: +10mm '04 Pitbull: +10mm '05 Pitbull: +10mm '06 Pitbull: +50mm All with Urban forks :P Adam

You might want some lube in there Jason, or it will die. Finish Line XC Wet works well, or a bit of car motor oil.

On 26"/Stock bikes only, that is <_<