AdamR28

The KOT frames are made of U6 by Pulo, and designed/tested in Latvia.

I couldn't find it online! The long cut in that picture I posted above is made with an angle grinder...

It rides nice, looks clean, very light (3.5lbs). The prototype has geometry of approx 1080wb - 72head - 380stays - +20bb. I was hoping them to be a little less pricey than that though!

I'd recommend Loctite 406, and some proper primer. Of course, superglue and no primer will do the job, but might not stay held together so well.... Epoxy is only good if the fit isnt very good - ie. it will fill gaps when you f**k up (Y) The only decent epoxy I've used on pads is some UHU Heavy Duty Plus+ stuff I got from Morrisons, haha. You can double the cure strength by heating it to about 100'C (instructions on the packaging) This is how I used to hand cut pads: Done by hand with a 6mm drill bit. Using an actual drill usually makes it snatch and tear a big hole in the backing. Angle grinder for the sides, stanley for the middle bit. Good luck, its tough! See if you can get something else to practice with first, I guarantee your first few goes will be shoddy compared to what you can do after a few attempts...

Sounds like you just need to leave it be for a few weeks!

They do feel a little more 'mushy' than normal discs, simply due to the extra leverage (it makes the calipers flex/pads squash). Once the brakes been used a bit though, it firms up nicely, and you dont notice any more flex than any other brake when riding (thats if the brake is brand new - the pads compress a little as theyre wearing in). My advice: leave it!

Anyone with a decent virus blocker feel free to try again now - should be sorted. Apologies for any inconvenience. Adam

Ideally you'll want something with a bit more rise, such as a HiFi stem. Adam

Can't do anything about it, sorry, FTP has been disabled due to everything being shifted to a new server at the moment. Will be fixed asap. Adam Edit: Its coming from this site: http://jamgerr.com/index.html **DO NOT CLICK THIS LINK** If you want to manually set your browser to block that site, then that should help.

Screwdriver and a mallet* *If you havent got any proper tools anyway

We used http://www.oneandone.co.uk - think it was about about £5 for 2 years for a .co.uk, and £9 a year for .com. Been no problems so far :D Cheers Adam

Tis the 'Low' verision Steve :D

I have to agree... Obviously would change some stuff, but the whole Matt Black thing does it for me!

That will have been me. We were led to believe the frame would be a dark grey colour, so the picture was edited to make it grey, and thus (so we thought) more accurate, to stop you getting loads of emails asking for a purple Zoot <_<

Fit the BB as shown in the picture <_< Spacer on the drive side.

Its impossible to tell like that - the only way is to measure it. I get the sidewalls to come out at around 2.0mm, compared to most other rims I have here at 1.25-1.5mm. Weight is 717g for a 26" rear, pretty decent!

It has external bearings - theres not enough room for a freewheel to fit.

Yep :( Adam

What exactly do you mean by that Rich? Unpredictable? Lack of power? Lock? Bite? Cheers

Yeah I believe it does. But all these 'fully sealed' pedals run on one bushing and one bearing, and I've found that it was the bearing that died first in my sets.

The Shindigs are only available in loose bearing versions. For something similarly tough with sealed bearings, I'd suggest Atom Lab Aircorps.

Have you got shitloads of programs and/or spyware running?

What exactly are you trying to find out Patt? Cheers

The snail cams fit over the axle, but butt up against the stainless steel sleeves on the axle - therefore, removing the cams won't take the hub down to 110mm spacing - more like 114mm (according to my ruler, cant find my verniers) You're right in saying the cams are 3mm thick though.

Cheers Rich. Weight is actually 1.811kg/3.99lbs, but not had chance to update the site yet! Adam