AdamR28

Be patient Chris I got a blue one just for you Tomm Adam

That's not really enough... Try attaching a track pump or air line to the bleed hole on the slave cylinder, and removing the bleed screw from the lever... you'll be amazed at how much gunk comes out

The best freewheel is the ENO - amazing machining quality, sealed bearing (no balls to go flying about when you take it apart!), all parts available seperately. The Tensile is the best value for money at the moment, however that may change as soon as the Try-All becomes more widely available. However, the 96 click Tensile may be one to look out for in the future...!

Genius!

Did you give the system a proper flush through before bleeding with water? If not, it'll have emulsified with the old oil and that'll be what's slowing your brake down.

Exactly: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=64260

Ensure the crank puller is tightened into the cranks with a spanner before trying to remove them - you'll never strip a crank extractor thread ever again (As long as you put it in straight!) A lot of people just put them in finger tight, but that's not enough - I've even seen steel cranks stripped when the tool isn't fitted right!

http://whois.domaintools.com/echobike.com Deng speaks quite good English apparently, in a 'gangsta' style according to TRA We are also official Echo importers for the UK, and do our utmost make sure we get hold of all the new parts first Cheers Adam

The old style silver cranks were known to have poor threads, and the extra insert was designed to cure this. The black cranks are much better, we've not had a single set back. You'll be doing very well to strip any of the threads of the sprocket/freewheel and pedals are fitted correctly and kept tight. If a warranty case did arise though, you can be sure that a shop charging full RRP for the part will be much more inclined to replace them The new CNC machined cranks have never had a problem, in any of the brands. We recommend the 170mm for stock bikes, or tall mod riders with plenty of BB clearance. 160s are more suited to shorter riders on mod bikes. Adam

In case you need persuading to get the video...

Hello all, Just a short vid of Damon doing some sidehops (for a change ) on Biff's Python. Cheers to Biff for the editing and filming Link had to be removed, sorry. Adam

I'm sure yours was isolated Jake, but as soon as we get hold of some we'll measure up Adam

Well you already know about us We're off riding on Thursday Jon, give us a shout and tag along if you can Adam

127.5mm is the best bet, however it depends exacty what setup you use. Due to the tiny size of the frame, the main issue is crank arm clearance on the cylinders (rather than the chainring on the frame) - so if you use a really wide (38mm+) rim then you'll definitely need the 127.5mm. However, as said above, give us a call if you're in doubt Cheers Adam

Seems strange that there are mixed reports... I have found that, especially in that horrible sticky mud, the tread doesn't clear amazing well on mine, but that said, its no worse than a Minion. The sidewalls are exactly the same as the other Dual Ply Maxxis tyres, and I've not had a single puncture yet. The wear rate is something I've been really impressed with on mine - its about 6 months old now and has only half gone! Personally, I think they're definitely worth a try if you're looking to get a new tyre any time soon. As for compound: if you ride mainly street go for the 42/50, and mainly natural 40/42. Cheers Adam

I have no idea how everyone is making their bikes this light - please tell me the secret?! Mine's probably about 25lbs.

Yeha, the earlier prototypes were 72 click, but they weren't as reliable as hoped, so they went back to the drawing board and these new versions are totally revised (after 6+ months further testing). They used 2 pawls at a time, but the teeth on the ratchet were very small. The new hubs have been designed to be very similar to a Pro2 internally I'll post pics of the internals as soon as I can Adam

Just a knock-up, better than no image! They're updated now Cheers Adam

Yes A great prospect for the future we believe!

Not seen most of that footage, nice one Jake! Would like to see a helmet for the whole of your next video though please... Adam

110mm + 3mm each side for chain tugs or snail cams - pretty much all mod frames are like that (apart from Monty, of course).

I wish, its so much more fun Right, crappest pic ever (couldn't find the one I wanted): [attachmentid=5967] Grind the red bits off including the two corners (so the tugs is flat at the front half), and then run it the opposite way round to normal: so the round tabs face inwards and the square blocks are inside the slot of the dropout. Its also handy for spacing out your 110mm Profile to the 116mm spacing of the Team frame You can then go on to chop the threads down a bit if you like - makes it super neat. Hope that helps Ads

It can be done with a bit of crafty angle grinding I'll try and find a pic of the last time I did it

Did you really think I'd be able to resist one of these? 200mm Rotor... Not had chance to ride it yet due to the awful weather up here, but initial corridor impressions are that the back end is nice and stiff (great for fatboys like me), and the rear brake makes me go every time I yank it on, haha. Cheers Adam

Aran, I'm shocked! Its M5 x 0.8.