AdamR28

T-Shirts leaving today Colour is a suprise Tic, give us a shout regarding the frame, they're all back in stock now Cheers Adam

Shut it Looks MINT Joe, I it!

The Try-All rims have not changed recently. Biff, yours will look and feel different since the sidewall wasn't brushed. The Echo rims have been completely revised though, and they now look like this: - Smaller holes - Deeper section to prevent flatspots - Thick sidewalls as before to help prevent dents - 26" version ~820g I'm sure the older models will be cleared out at various retailers in the near future too! There's a few other tweaks to the range too. Cheers Adam

Damon Damon Damon.... Awesome riding, AWFUL music Really didn't fit in, sorry PS: Damon's too eager to ride for me to build wheels for him

Silver self-adhesive vinyl stuck to a normal rim tape:

We've found it tricky to get replacement berings, however the sizes you need are: Internal diameter: 21.5mm Width: 7mm on the non drive side (single row of bearings), 14mm on the drive side (double row bearing) Outer diameter: 31mm Try Swan Bearings (www.yell.com), they are a huge stockist and they may be able to help you out. Cheers Adam

CRMs in wibbly-wobbly alu backings, gotta be the loudest... But a loud brake isn't always a working brake

'One Piece Bottom Bracket yoke This One piece yoke is fully CNC out from a single block of 7075 aluminum' 'Head tube The KM1 has also got a revolutionary CNC head tube, it’s fully machined out from a single block of 7075 Aluminum.' Are you sure those parts are 7075? Seeing as you cant weld 7075 even to itself, never mind to U6. The head tube is hardly revolutionary! Frames look decent though. Any trade prices Dan?

13T, 14T and 16T available soon

Same thing... Plaz CRMs, light grind

Flange spacing on 20" Adamant/Echo/Czar/GU/ZOO freewheeling hubs = 69mm Flange spacing on King ISO rear = 54mm Flange spacing on King SingleSpeed 135mm axle rear = 66mm All from my ruler.

Phones for the win :wink2: Any chance of his postcode Phil? (email please) Might have some details here. Cheers Adam

Exactly that - Japanese bearings throughout (compared with Japanese main bearings and Chinese driver bearings on the Profile hubs). Adam

Could the following please contact us by email or phone to confirm which prizes you would like: 2. Echo Lite/Pure Frame (your choice) - donated by TartyBikes - 432 - haydon_peter - Which frame Tic? 3. TartyBikes Tshirt (Medium or Large) - donated by TartyBikes - 221 - granty - Medium? 4. TartyBikes Tshirt (Medium or Large) - donated by TartyBikes - 52 - trialsboy560 - Large? 5. TartyBikes Tshirt (Medium or Large) - donated by TartyBikes - 280 - mat_hudson - Which size Mat? Sod's law (of course) means that we're out of stock of all of the above at the moment (bar V-Mount Echo Lite frames), but T-Shirts will be back in stock this week, and the frames in approx 2 weeks. Tom has sent us your addresses but no other contact details. Cheers Adam

Yep. And then shortly after that here in the UK

All looks pretty rinky dink () Mark... little tip for the grease/oil - lace the wheel first (to the point you've said with a bit of thread showing) and then drop a bit of oil into the threads. Much easier and less messy! Bedding the spokes into the hub/themselves is something else that's worth doing too, but that's an additional step... If you can build a wheel then a little bit of extra tensioning/truing a few rides down the line shouldn't hurt. Anyway, decent guide Mark, I'd not have the patience to do all that! Oh, and triangle Park spoke keys are finger-eaters

Standard M10 Craig - could always take em down to the shop and get them matched up? Ads Edit: Profile axle bolts are 3/8" imperial, not metric

Light grind and clean pads is the way to go for best performance... The only way you'll get a good brake for any amount of time with a totally smooth rim is to clean it all the time unfortunately - the pads pick up bits of rim (that's the grey stuff on your pads) quite easily.

Be patient Chris I got a blue one just for you Tomm Adam

That's not really enough... Try attaching a track pump or air line to the bleed hole on the slave cylinder, and removing the bleed screw from the lever... you'll be amazed at how much gunk comes out

The best freewheel is the ENO - amazing machining quality, sealed bearing (no balls to go flying about when you take it apart!), all parts available seperately. The Tensile is the best value for money at the moment, however that may change as soon as the Try-All becomes more widely available. However, the 96 click Tensile may be one to look out for in the future...!

Genius!

Did you give the system a proper flush through before bleeding with water? If not, it'll have emulsified with the old oil and that'll be what's slowing your brake down.

Exactly: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=64260

Ensure the crank puller is tightened into the cranks with a spanner before trying to remove them - you'll never strip a crank extractor thread ever again (As long as you put it in straight!) A lot of people just put them in finger tight, but that's not enough - I've even seen steel cranks stripped when the tool isn't fitted right!