AdamR28

"I've had the same jeans on for 4 days now..." Well change them you mong!! Chemical Romance are getting a right hammering on Radio 1 this week as well, getting annoying... And the people answering the 'chemical' questions are so funny

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=95359

If he still has a shock on it then the best was is to just measure the old one... You need the length (eye to eye) and the stroke (amount of travel). The spring rate should also be printed on the spring Ads

Directions now up, see you there! http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=82171 Cheers Adam

Well usually there's these two tubes called the down tube and the top tube - you put it on the end of those... Being a little more serious, the head tube just ends up where the rest of the geo tells it to. If your wheelbase is X, back end A, head angle B, fork length C and the BB rise Y, then the head tube will just end up in the right place to conform to all these other dimensions. That make sense? Of course you could make head tube placement one of the things you base the rest of the bike's geo around, but for all other frames at the moment it seems to be the other way around...

Guano Apes - Open Your Eyes (or is it Mind?) Alos check out: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=47941

Haha Edit: 6mins 25... crazy

Rightyho... is the steel section on the drive side of the hub still intact? The serrations should be more than enough to keep the tensioner in place - even without serrations they usually are fine. Also, the QR, might be worth some lube on the cam mechanism. Hope QRs don't offer much tension compared with Shimano, and when dry they really are difficult to get tight. I would also make sure the inside face of your frame is nice and clean, same with the arm of the tensioner. All these little tweaks should be enough to keep it in place nicely Ads

What hub and QR do you have?

190mm should do the trick... might need a spacer with that but best to be on the long side! Cheers Adam OT: Yep, be with you tomorrow

M5 x 0.8, and you can helicoil to that size, yep.

You're doing well Dave! I did mine in 48 hours and almost missed the hand in cos my mates printer broke... score! Best of luck

Depends on stem and headset, and how many spacers you want to run... let me know and I'll have a good idea

What a gay Nice pics Joe Cheers!

Nobody, you'd get £1.10

5/6/7/8 shifters and mechs are all compatible, 9 speed is different spacing... so, you'll be fine with what you have now. Ads

Results up! http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/ymsa/Rnd1Web.xls Adam

Full results -> http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/ymsa/Rnd1Web.xls Cheers Adam

So what did we all think then? I'll post something when I've had some tea...

Maxxis wins hands down for puncture resistance, the sidewalls have a nice spongy insert to cushion the tube when you squeeze it against the rim

I agree, a very minor point though I reckon.

Ah cool, sorry, I should have said threadlock, my fault for using a brand name

Its standard practice though - Middleburn cranks come loctited, a lot of bolts come with loctite pre-installed (rotor bolts, hub axle bolts). Loctite isn't a bodge, its essential to the proper function of a lot of engineering products

Has he tightened the grub screw up? Loctited it in? That would solve the 'problem' instantly...

Ahh go on, you know you wanna! Should be about 2 hours for you I think... once you get on the M62/M1 it's a decent run