AdamR28

Did I spy Gamo in there?! Edit: Yep, looks like it after reading your post... ace!

I guess I used 'well set up' loosely... Things like faced mounts, wheel build with a disc in mind (extra cross, little tighter, plain instead of butted spokes), well sized rotor (200 on stock), decent disc mount (at least +20 on stock), no flexy adaptors, good bleed, both pads hitting at same time, hose chopped to optimum length, good cable if a cable brake, straight rotor, very clean rotor/pads, correctly bedded in... I know that all these should always be done anyway, but a surprising amount of disc brakes I ride aren't set up well and it makes them perform poorly or just feel lousy at the lever. Compared with the extra tweaks you need to make a Magura work up to scratch it really isn't that much different.

And on stock - I've had both a KOT and a Simtra set up with dual discs and found them to be better (for me) than maggies.

Anyone saying that rear discs are rubbish hasn't tried a well set up rear disc They are certainly different, there are pros and cons to both - personally I'd go for (and have gone for) rear disc every time.

They're 12mm thick...

One pic up now, more to follow!

Will try and bosh one up shortly They only arrived in the UK a few hours ago so I doubt anyone has one yet, hehe.

Differences are: Front tyre, front spokes, front nipples, forks, headset, brakes, rotors, grips, freewheel, pedals, rear tyre, rear tube, rear spokes, rear nipples, chain, rear sprocket, rim tapes and various bolts. It is not a Czar indeed, I decided it was too heavy, although they do look very pimp! (Just got them in) Ads

The b*****d. I work at some bike shop thing

QUOTE(hugh_b @ Jun 19 2007, 11:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>lokin very swish dude. Have fun on it, just get that first scratch out of the way, then you wont be a nervous wreck riding it lol -HughHaha, Craig's already taken care of bashing for me (got the frame off him, no way I could afford a new one!). Yes it could be lighter, but I don't want to run crap parts Will save some weight with my new Tarty Trial SL brakes when they arrive. Oh, and it rides mint, really suprised at how much difference a light bike makes... It seems to be much smoother and quieter than my Pr, no idea how/why, but I like it! t33zr, how is your Monsterboy 8.9kg? The only lighter parts on it are the forks, spokes and maybe the grips if you have Try-All foams!

New pics 27th June: 13T Sprocket on the rear, feels much more nimble now! New Hope Tarty Trial SL Brakes front and rear With alloy bolts in the lever to save more weight (normally come with Ti) Ti Rotor Bolts, Caliper Bolts, Hub Bolts Just need to chop hoses and re-bleed brakes now... and possibly add some super-pimp forks to save myself about another 200g Ads

Maybe it is!?

Weighed 1.5l, came out to 1,500g exactly. Our scales seem to be good

Philz got skilz though, don't try this at home kids! Nice... however I once bought a cheap tap & die set from eBay... BIG mistake! I threw it in the bin and bought a decent one the same day I received it. I'm sure most people will have also experienced that its worth buying good tools first time round instead of buying a crap tool, messing up what you were trying to do, and THEN having to buy a decent tool!

Oooh a foursome, get in!

Defo! Maybe try and arrange a weekend with Craig too? He's due a few days off and might be cool to arrange for you both to head this way... chat to you on MSN about it anyway Ads Oh yeah, bike looks sweet, as if you needed me to tell you that

Happy Birthday Joe May-her You fag!

How far ahead of their time were Megamo!? +30mm BB, +40 rear disc mount... looks awesome John!

Just as Liam says, if you keep your pedals and crank bolts tight they will last great! Its most important when the cranks are brand new, since they 'bed in' and give a little bit where they contact other parts (pedal thread, BB axle). All aluminium cranks do exactly the same thing, its just cranks like Middleburns (for example) use higher quality materials so can stand up to abuse a little better. In short, whenever you fit new cranks, keep checking the pedals and crank bolts are tight literally every half an hour for around the first week or two you have them.

All the weights on our site are taken on a set of digital scales, the same set for all products. We've had Try-All rear rims down to 687g before and up to 750+, they do vary. Monty freewheel is definitely correct. I think that may be a typo on the Monty bashplate, will check tomorrow (I think that weight will be plus bolts). Not sure why you get different weights Inur. I'll weigh a litre of water tomorrow and check our scales. As for rims, the Atomz ones are great, but if you're after super strength then Echo is the way to go.

Hehe, just what I was gonna add... in French 'Training' is basically the same as 'riding' over here...

Hehe, yeah they're all pretty basic... just a font. Ours is actually written from scratch in notepad

6. Getting a Mono Trial sorted me out good and proper! I jest... Another little tip is to align the rotor RIGHT next to the fixed piston, this way, when you pull the brake, it won't have to flex the rotor over before it bites

http://v3.espacenet.com/textdoc?DB=EPODOC&...p;QPN=US4585094

http://www.espacenet.com should have some patent drawings... won't be dimensional though I would have thought