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AdamR28

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Everything posted by AdamR28

  1. Wear an elastic band around your wrist and if you start to feel a panic attack coming on, pull it away from your wrist a little and let it flick back... keep repeating it. I can't say I know first hand if it works but I've heard from others it does
  2. AdamR28

    Wales.

    I think he means the sky is 'ghosting' over the rock. Out of interest Dave, how would you stop it doing that?
  3. If only... can't even get any for myself!
  4. You still need insurance though, and there are still bills to pay...! If an internet store had a 'walk in' area that would be the best of both worlds surely?
  5. The Ti axles for those pedals are gold... unless he's taken the gold colouring off or got some others made. Either way its fooking light, just needs to get rid of the frame tail now.
  6. Haha... oohh yeah... will see if Stan fancies it, probably not though as we're off to YMSA tomorrow. Will let you know, cheers!
  7. Bum... you have the old style T-Master rear hub yeah? That's why you can't run them on the inside... most other hubs have more axle sticking out each end to allow you to put the snail cams on the inside.
  8. All that drilling/filing/cutting... should have got some Ti pedal axles
  9. It's actually normally a case of the opposite - unless you have a 3 or 4ft long pedal spanner it's impossible to rip the thread out unless you're Jeff Capes! Stripped pedal threads usually come about when the pedal is ridden loose. When aluminium parts are first fitted they undergo something called 'creep'. The top layer of the part in contact with another component (alloy crank arm, steel pedal axle in this case) hardens up, shrinks in size a tiny amount and allows the two parts to come loose from each other a little. Then, if you ride the bike like this, a small amount of movement develops and it's bye bye thread!
  10. AdamR28

    Taps

    But if you are a beast then a higher gear is better... push the hard gear = more speed. This is where Giaco power comes in handy!
  11. Ideally inside with your GU frame, but not essential to be either side as long as the hub/snail cams aren't stretching the back end apart/pulling the back end together too much.
  12. Double sarcasm But yeah, t'internet doesn't really do it justice, haha.
  13. Not really You just have to put that down to them being twats, as Ognob said you'll find someone who you click with at some point - but it does take time to build up trust.
  14. That's the main thing, yep... you need to do it with all cranks, just less expensive ones give you less margin for error.
  15. Hold shift down again? I think that'll do it... I think you've turned auto shift on or something.
  16. AdamR28

    **nwbt3** Yay!

    Boo, busy next weekend (nearly every weekend in fact) and got YMSA really early Sunday... Sorry!
  17. Not exactly true - the Echo etc 116mm rear hubs have a wider flange spacing than King Singlespeed hubs and Hope Pro2 Trials hubs... On all the other points I agree though!
  18. Nope, will be fine, will only be an hour or so before your chain has stretched
  19. I have no idea... haha. Although the levers don't actually have a logo on, it's on the reservoir cap only?
  20. Put it on the tight setting for now, then ones your chain stretches a little bit (which it will do being new) all will be fine and dandy!
  21. Convoy Escort Oiler? Yep, that's me! (Theres some good ones here, haha: http://acronyms.thefreedictionary.com/CEO)
  22. Stronger axle, lighter hub, narrower rear end for more heel and obstacle clearance... But I agree that 135 is better.
  23. That is true, although how often do you land on top of a big tap? Even on a vert wall I think that still would have stuck...
  24. Unfortunately not... busy next weekend... Cheers though. Haha Edit: Cheers Nick, was thinking of that
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