AdamR28

Awesome as always!

It was Amazing stuff! Sounds like a fun experience. Really cool that you didn't have any mechanical issues, great work. Sounds good, gonna knock myself an MTB frame up first then will likely give you a holler for some tips Cheers!

How did you get on dude? Decided to build one of these and have a crack at an event or two next year

Yup, up for a track day too!

Haha nice. It wouldn't be ''my' Zero though...

Was it though? That's basically current geometry Same as the Echo HiFi. It was wacky back then but it's positively 'mediocre' now. Wish I'd kept my Zero!

It's definitely starter / battery related. The symptoms you describe are usually from poor earth or dead battery (voltage might test ok, but CCA not high enough). You'll have it sorted soon I'm sure

Sounds interesting, seen a few MR2s with that lump in and they seem very well matched!

Sounds like it's all in good hands And a huge improvement from last year's craft!

That's dead cool Have fun and good luck! Bit late regarding the diff question but... just make it one wheel drive I had a look into soapbox races recently and I found the major factors in reducing scrub up front were parallel toe, zero scrub radius, with modest caster (approx 5 degrees), and 100% Ackerman. Made sense to me.

I think we're mostly in the same camp on this one - as trials riders we're a bit 'unsure' of the riding, it doesn't flow that well and isn't as 'good' (broad term) as Ali or Danny for example. BUT, entertainment factor is really, really high. It's the sort of thing you can show to your mum or girlfriend and they'll enjoy it, not noticing the small details we do as riders. And I think that's what it's aimed at; promoting his sponsors, getting loads of hits on YouTube etc, and if it's riding a trials bike then fair play, it can only be a good thing.

1. You should use a Hope rotor with the Hope brake for best performance. 2. You need to - ideally - face the mounts so they are square with the hub. Then, as you say, use the shims to get the caliper and rotor aligned. 3. More power. 4. Looked pretty f**ked to be honest, but Hope brakes fix up well. As long as everything moves smoothly it will be fine.

Probably a significant part of the problem. You also ideally need rotors with a braking surface depth that matches that of the pads. The RT66 are pretty slim, the pads in the Hope are tall. Setup on these is critical to good lever feel, they offer a lot more power than 'normal' brakes though so by default the lever is a bit more spongy.

Fun comp on an old bike. Nothing too serious, just a way for some dads to dust off their oldskool machines

One thing I forgot to mention - I know on cars for the IVA any bias adjusters must be 'mechanically' locked off so they can't be used. Probably the same for the bike / trike test, and he probably already knows, but just in case...

Yeah don't see why not. Brakes will be a bit mushy but should have plenty of power! I'd just tee off the master cylinder; one line to the rear brake, one to the front brakes (use a tee again to each of the calipers), and stick an adjustable pressure reducing value (like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Proportion-Valve-Adjustable-Prop-Valve-Brake-Bias-Adjuster-Knob-Type/380921013804) into the rear circuit to make sure that one doesn't lock first. No need for any sort of adjuster in the front circuit as it'll have equal pressure throughout.

A lot of work there, good stuff!

Unsure about the brake issue, sounds very odd. The hissing noise is 'normal' for servoed brakes. I can tell you though that the Mk2 vRS is a cracking car! Had a petrol one with Stage 1 map and it was a brilliant all-rounder. Pleasingly quick, comfy, not expensive to run, massive boot, decent fuel economy (40mpg+ on a run) and just generally well put together.

Yeah the PS3s are a cracking tyre.

Glad you had fun! Just keep the car serviced, keep water and oil in it, and brake pads, and enjoy. You're doing exactly the right thing by not throwing money at the car, you will learn more and have less issues with it standard. Hard to see where improvements can be made given the camera angle (better / easier with the driver in view) but your lines look great so I'd say it's just seat time now.

Nice skinned knuckle there

Nice Dan, looking really really good! Joining alu pipe end to end like that is flippin tricky!

Cricket? Football? Our politicians?

Looking good Dan! Looks like that one needs a bit more current and more cleaning action, you want the oxide to be away from the bead if poss.

We are closed at weekends. We measure the actual frames we get into stock. ISIS BB will fit.