AdamR28

I like that idea.... have you done it or just throwing an idea out?

For sure... ... but when you are a mong like me, you have to go over-complex http://FantasticContraption.com/?designId=571657

badgertank Another one from Ali

30, yes, £cheap (it's on a 549 full bike)... but I've not seen them available separately.

Yeah there is an 8 speed freehub on the Zoot, but it's not fixed so...

badgerfish Ali's design

I have never seen/heard of such a thing... sorry.

Tank-style for the win: http://FantasticContraption.com/?designId=557483 Different solution to the norm: http://FantasticContraption.com/?designId=557646

But again, you could just add the same amount of turns on each side? With an M6 thread for example, 1/4 turn would be 0.25mm, this is better resolution than notched snail cams with which you're hard pushed to tell disc brake alignment from one click to the next. Surely graduations would have to be much more than 0.25mm (for example) or you couldn't see them?

Try a longer and higher stem, such as a Meta, Atomz, Trialtech Welded, V!Z Forged... will make a huge difference.

Fitting a new chain - not a problem, it's only 4 or 5 clicks from new to 3 months old. New gear ratio... all the frames with horizontal dropouts are designed to be used with only one ratio. Caliper over rotor: again the frames are for one ratio so this is not a problem. I think eccentric BB would just cause more problems than it solves... As you said, it adjusts two geometry aspects instead of one, and would add a lot of un-necessary weight. Edit: As Anal says, horizontal dropouts may not suit everyone though.

You'll really struggle to get the old ones out I believe, but best bet is to give Hope and call and see what they say. I am pretty sure they will have the bearings available.

With respect to this, the resolution on a set of Try-All snail cams is around 0.4mm (less than 0.3mm in the case of Monty, and infinite if you use smooth cams), so it makes very little difference to the geo of the bike. Once the chain has settled in (2 or 3 clicks max) you very rarely need to adjust it, maybe one click a month. I am very sensitive to changes in geometry, setup etc and I cannot notice this amount of change. To ensure correct brake setup you just add one click/the same amount of tension to each cam (left and right) when you re-tension the chain and the wheel/rotor is still aligned as previously.

Top drawer You've got mail :wink2:

Ah cool Fingers crossed you get it sorted! Ads

Hmm... have you had the hub apart? What exact order have you got stuff starting drive side and working towards the centre of the hub?

Pretty sure 1.8 will be fine... it's just to stop the two bearings binding together Stick it together and find out!

Here's the Tarty 'Bitch Bike': These ones measure up at 410mm length and 42mm offset, alloy legs and steerer. The only graphic is that one on the inside of the right hand leg. Looks to be the same disc mount as the Trialtech forks but at international standard position. Big thanks to Dave for the forks! Ads

Anodised finish

I thought this... I did 18 holes and have now sacked it off, so it's gone on my bike half round/half square

I've seen these and that doesn't do them justice! Any chance of putting the other pic up again? Cheers!

Well, 156g to be exact Alloy cages, steel axles, alloy body... price TBC.

All great points Steve, nice one. Something I couldn't work out how to say, hit the nail on the head (for me)...