AdamR28

Cheap, light, strong: pick two.

Age is just a number, I'm older and still playing about on a kids bike

Agreed. The latest Pures feel rather stretched out too, and thus long, due to the low bar / stem.

Nah, the pawl are completely free to move in that situation, so no noises caused, just a delay in engaging. The wear should be even in theory, the chance of each pawl being 'the one' is equal. Again, doesn't sound like anything to worry about, perfectly normal given the design.

Hmm. Thats more than I'd expect or like to see, but it wouldn't cause the hub to skip, it will just increase the amount of time between pawl clicking in and drive being taken up (because the pawl gets dragged out of its seat while coasting, then has to re-seat when you put the power on). As an aside, when they released this freehub system that is exactly what I anticipated would happen, there's no way one pawl seat can take all that load and not stretch / wear. That's the other thing with all these hubs with a bazillion engagement points, none of them take up instantly. There is always a delay while the mechanism engages, so you could actually have more delay at the pedals on a hub that technically has more EPs.

I'd go BB7 from those three choices.

Buying a house is always a horrendous experience. So many f**kwits, dishonest people, lazy people - all getting in the way. Batten down the hatches and expect a long haul...

Absolutely - the first pressure on the pedals has to straighten out / remove sag from the top part of the chain, before the drivetrain engages. Clearly this is only when you have the chain a bit slack (ie. not set up properly) though, something French riders seemed to have an issue with a few years back

Yeah, the BB area is the same as the trialsy frames.

Some good advice there ^^ Anyone can make you a frame, doesn't have to be trials specific. I just got a set of tubes from Ceeway, good service and decent prices too. Would probably get plain gauge 4130 for your experiment. That said, I have put nearly a year on an MTB frame I built from super cheap 1.2mm mild steel, and Flipp has built frames from it in the past too. Works fine if a bit heavy and dead-feeling.

This all sounds pretty normal to me, I think maybe you're just very sensitive to the drivetrain and what it's doing (no bad thing!). I'm the same, often have to just remember no harm is being done and it all still works fine.

Yep, better than any cheap hydraulic disc.

Jitsie pads = Trialtech pads, BTW.

They're.... ok. The Magura MT Sport work well, especially with the uprated Jitsie pads, but durability can be 'lacking' if you bash them about and aren't careful with torque specs.

Generally there is no bed in time for these, but if you get any skips at the start then give it some 'normal riding' time.

Looks nice that Dave, very much like my bike will be once I've built the new frame! Edit, just looked at full bike prices direct from PlanetX, unreal value! Also been riding full rigid recently and really enjoying it. As Ben says above, you just have to pick your way down rather than point and shoot. It makes the fun bits last longer! Have ridden everything I normally ride on the full susser these last few weeks, just a bit slower on the downs and miles faster on the ups.

This really pissed me off when getting my first mortgage too! Hope you manage to get something

Quality riding, quality comedy Bike rack weird sideways gap to front sort of thing was nuts!

Custom required.

Here's where it started for me... 1997 - pretty much wore my copt of this on VHS out. Can still quote large sections of the dialogue. Bad news Then Evolve absolutely blew my mind in 2000: Didn't watch this as much, but picked up some good tips in 2001:

You will get the sprockets digging in from riding XC too, that is completely normal.

Thanks for your input guys! I also think eccentric BB would be easier for adjustment - though in considering this, it has made me ponder why the eccentric system at the dropouts is awkward. Yes you can move the wheel around, but only on a prescribed circle. You can't just nudge it directly up a bit here, or horizontally back a bit there, for example. So, I've come up with something else that may or may not work, we'll find out in a few weeks

Awesome. Thanks a lot for the info!

Quite a bump, but... How did this work out? I'm pondering dropouts for my new (SS MTB) frame and considering eccentric. Cheers!

Handy tool! Though as an easy guide, as soon as you feel any resistance, stop. The O ring does the sealing on these things.